[cbr99xx]

... on the XX

This is how I installed my chain on my ‘99 Blackbird.

Parts list: DID/530ZVM120 (gold) chain
17 tooth drive sprocket
45 tooth driven sprocket (listing correct sprockets for the XX)
Special tools: Motion Pro chain riveting tool
Dremel tool with cut off wheel affixed
Torque wrench
Vernier calipers

I removed the left side faring.

I removed the drive sprocket cover. This appeared to be more difficult than it really was, the hydraulic clutch actuator comes off with the cover (no gasket required). I disconnected side stand kill switch in order to move the wire out of the way.

I loosened the bolt on the drive sprocket while the bike was in first gear and the chain was still tight.

I loosened the rear axel bolt and slackened the chain with the adjusters but did not remove the wheel just yet.

I picked a link and positioned it on the rear sprocket so that it could be reached with the Dremel tool. I then cut the braded part of one of the pins from this link.

Using the riveting tool (in breaker mode) I then pushed the cut off pin out of the link, breaking the chain.

I then removed the chain.

I then removed the rear wheel and installed my new (45 tooth for the XX) driven sprocket, torque to spec. (the nuts on the sprocket can be broken loose before wheel removal)

I then removed the drive sprocket (loosened earlier) and installed my new (17 tooth for the XX) sprocket, torque to spec.

I then cut my new chain to the required number of links (110 for the XX), remembering to… measure twice… cut once.( I broke this chain in the same manner described above)

I fed chain around drive sprocket.

Then I installed the rear wheel, leaving the axel nut loose.

I wrapped the chain around the driven sprocket and installed the rivet type master link making sure to use the supplied grease on the o-rings. I also shot a bit of the same grease up into the link holes before pushing the master link through. Using the rivet tool, I pressed the outer plate on the link (with o-rings greased and in place). Using calipers, I measured the distance between the plates on the links next to my master link. I then pressed the plate on the master link until I was just shy of the measurement I acquired from its neighbor. (When the pin is braded it will push the plate in a bit)

I then configured the rivet tool with the proper attachments to brad the link pins. The service manual listed a measurement for the link pin when it has been braded enough (.217”-.228” for the XX). I stopped working on the link when the pins fell in the middle of the previously stated range.



I tightened the chain, the rear axel nut (torque to spec), installed the front sprocket cover and installed the left side faring. I went for a ride (20-25 miles) and checked the chain again (I had to re-tighten).

After 16,000 miles my XX was in need of a new chain. This seemed a bit early to me but after some research this does fall into a ‘normal’ range of 16K to 23K (albeit at the low end of the scale). The XX had been doing touring duty and started life on a six day trudge up the Blue Ridge Parkway in the rain… everyday… in the rain. I am telling you this because many of you may remember that WD-40 is my friend when it comes to chain maintenance… not true with the ’bird. Being caught in a continuous down-pour I was concerned about my chain , stopped at a cycle shop and bought a can of PJ1. This chain has seen several brands of lube including the (manual) suggested straight 90wt..

The source for my chain and sprockets had 17/44 listed as stock replacements for my bike, as it turns out this is incorrect. I ordered the parts while at work (no manual) and trusted the vendor for this information… BIG mistake. The stock rear sprocket should be a 45 tooth unit… I have the correct sprocket on the way (looked all over locally, but had to order one) but for now, the 44 tooth sprocket will have to do.

[Mrsalter]

What are the torque specs for this install? I do not have a manual for my bike. Thanks the the installation guide. I just ordered my parts and will use these instructions. THANKS

[johnx144]

good guide, i will follow it soon on my rrx, gold chain being added.

[Mrsalter]

Yes. I like the pics too! I am just waiting on FedEx to drop me the chain/sprockets. I finally got the torque specs--just need a torque wrench and I am good to go. Just bought this bike. Original chain/sprockets with 26k miles. I is UGLY! It's amazing that the chain did not break. I had some fun cutting the old chain off with the grinder.

[johnx144]

i must be missing somthing, how did u attach the pics? i dont see an attach option...

[Mrsalter]

Thanks again for this procedure. I've almost completed it but do not have a rivet tool. Can you suggest another option? thanks

This is how I installed my chain on my ‘99 Blackbird.

Parts list: DID/530ZVM120 (gold) chain
17 tooth drive sprocket
45 tooth driven sprocket (listing correct sprockets for the XX)
Special tools: Motion Pro chain riveting tool
Dremel tool with cut off wheel affixed
Torque wrench
Vernier calipers

I removed the left side faring.

I removed the drive sprocket cover. This appeared to be more difficult than it really was, the hydraulic clutch actuator comes off with the cover (no gasket required). I disconnected side stand kill switch in order to move the wire out of the way.

I loosened the bolt on the drive sprocket while the bike was in first gear and the chain was still tight.

I loosened the rear axel bolt and slackened the chain with the adjusters but did not remove the wheel just yet.

I picked a link and positioned it on the rear sprocket so that it could be reached with the Dremel tool. I then cut the braded part of one of the pins from this link.

Using the riveting tool (in breaker mode) I then pushed the cut off pin out of the link, breaking the chain.

I then removed the chain.

I then removed the rear wheel and installed my new (45 tooth for the XX) driven sprocket, torque to spec. (the nuts on the sprocket can be broken loose before wheel removal)

I then removed the drive sprocket (loosened earlier) and installed my new (17 tooth for the XX) sprocket, torque to spec.

I then cut my new chain to the required number of links (110 for the XX), remembering to… measure twice… cut once.( I broke this chain in the same manner described above)

I fed chain around drive sprocket.

Then I installed the rear wheel, leaving the axel nut loose.

I wrapped the chain around the driven sprocket and installed the rivet type master link making sure to use the supplied grease on the o-rings. I also shot a bit of the same grease up into the link holes before pushing the master link through. Using the rivet tool, I pressed the outer plate on the link (with o-rings greased and in place). Using calipers, I measured the distance between the plates on the links next to my master link. I then pressed the plate on the master link until I was just shy of the measurement I acquired from its neighbor. (When the pin is braded it will push the plate in a bit)

I then configured the rivet tool with the proper attachments to brad the link pins. The service manual listed a measurement for the link pin when it has been braded enough (.217”-.228” for the XX). I stopped working on the link when the pins fell in the middle of the previously stated range.



I tightened the chain, the rear axel nut (torque to spec), installed the front sprocket cover and installed the left side faring. I went for a ride (20-25 miles) and checked the chain again (I had to re-tighten).

After 16,000 miles my XX was in need of a new chain. This seemed a bit early to me but after some research this does fall into a ‘normal’ range of 16K to 23K (albeit at the low end of the scale). The XX had been doing touring duty and started life on a six day trudge up the Blue Ridge Parkway in the rain… everyday… in the rain. I am telling you this because many of you may remember that WD-40 is my friend when it comes to chain maintenance… not true with the ’bird. Being caught in a continuous down-pour I was concerned about my chain , stopped at a cycle shop and bought a can of PJ1. This chain has seen several brands of lube including the (manual) suggested straight 90wt..

The source for my chain and sprockets had 17/44 listed as stock replacements for my bike, as it turns out this is incorrect. I ordered the parts while at work (no manual) and trusted the vendor for this information… BIG mistake. The stock rear sprocket should be a 45 tooth unit… I have the correct sprocket on the way (looked all over locally, but had to order one) but for now, the 44 tooth sprocket will have to do.[/quote]

[Mrsalter]

Any ideas what brand of aftermarket seat would be a good choice for the Blackbird???? Something that might make the wife smile also? Thanks