Chain Lubes

Eckl · 12-21-2007, 11:32 PM

Can anybody recommend a chain lube that will keep my chain looking it's pretty brand new self? I've found chain wax is **** and does nothing but make a good mess.

drooger · 12-22-2007, 2:38 PM

I like the genuine Honda brand. Have tried others like pj1 ect... but all made a huge mess. The Hhonda stuff dries in 10-15 min. very little mess.

Renegade929 · 12-23-2007, 12:05 AM

Maxima chain wax is a decent product..you want to clean the chain,then ride it for 5 minutes to warm it up, then spray the chain pretty good and let it sit over night ....i do still get some 'sling' when going over 130, but my problem is that there is no chain guard on the chrome swingarm that the previous owner set up..Also, no chain lube only is going to keep your chain looking 'new' , you have to occasionaly clean the grime off it ...they sell 'chain scrubbers'

Doomwitha929 · 12-23-2007, 12:23 AM

2007! amazing mind blowing technology! Computers that make HAL look like a watch calculator and no one can design a chain that does not require nasty lube. Someone please get on this.

UncleJesse954 · 12-23-2007, 4:46 AM

what moving parts dont need lubed on a bike in some way. i know! super electromagnetic chains with links that dont touch! and of course sprockets that dont touch. electromagnetic cushion between everything!

HCCAFan · 12-23-2007, 12:33 PM

Someone just started this discussion not more than 2 weeks ago.

Doomwitha929 · 12-23-2007, 5:36 PM

Great minds think alike. I was thinking more like a normal type chain but with bearing material that would not require lube. maybe some sort of ceramic material like in turbines or some other sort of self lubricating composite material.

UncleJesse954 · 12-23-2007, 6:27 PM

ceramic isn't very strong though is it? i know it has low friction easy sliding properties but where on a chain would it be strong enough to use?

UncleJesse954 · 12-23-2007, 6:28 PM

i guess there's all sorts of alloy variations

Doomwitha929 · 12-23-2007, 6:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UncleJesse954

ceramic isn't very strong though is it? i know it has low friction easy sliding properties but where on a chain would it be strong enough to use?

Ceramic variations are used in turbos and turbines in jet engines among other things. It can be extremely strong and practicly immune to heat.

UncleJesse954 · 12-23-2007, 7:30 PM

i see. we'll they probably haven't done it because they would sell way less chains. you have to think about that too. do they really WANT to make certain things more reliable and maintenance free or would they rather nickel and dime you on the stuff that keeps wearing out?

Doomwitha929 · 12-23-2007, 7:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UncleJesse954

i see. we'll they probably haven't done it because they would sell way less chains. you have to think about that too. do they really WANT to make certain things more reliable and maintenance free or would they rather nickel and dime you on the stuff that keeps wearing out?

totally true

rsser · 12-24-2007, 12:31 AM

Some Euro bikes way back had a full tin shroud around the chain ... and the chains lasted forever.

Course we'd now think that would look cr*p so the makers give us what we want.

To get back to the original post question:

best thing is to minimize the spray lube. With the quality of chains we have all you really need is some lube for the roller-sprocket engagement.

O or X rings separate the plates and keep the maker's grease happy inside.

And if you want the brand-spanking-new look to your chain just get the bike up on a stand and spin the wheel while rubbing the crud off the visible plates with a coarse rag. Simple. No cost. Low carbon footprint.

MIKE-SA · 12-24-2007, 2:28 AM

Agreed

Clean and lube every 300-500km

I clean with Castrol DWF, then wax with Castrol chain wax

Sometimes I lube with a little chain oil - Castrol or Ipone, then cover with wax

Oil looks better on the chain (initially) but gets cruddy quickly and sprays onto the wheels

Wax looks ok - but wheels remain clean

westrr · 12-24-2007, 2:35 AM

MOTUL - put it on after a ride when chain is hot.

give it a go - I'd use nothing else.

mastashake72 · 12-24-2007, 4:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doomwitha929

2007! amazing mind blowing technology! Computers that make HAL look like a watch calculator and no one can design a chain that does not require nasty lube. Someone please get on this.

Yeah, Buell already did it. Along with several others. Its called a BELT.

Dude, its a CHAIN. Technology can only take you so far. Get a rear stand and wipe the thing off from time to time...Maxima works well.

MoMan · 12-24-2007, 7:12 AM

Eventhough I don't run a Honda, I still use Honda's HP Chain lube. I've always gotten the most mileage out of a chain with it. I hit it every 300 miles and scrub it clean every 1000. I've been averaging ~20k per DID VM x-ring chain.

cb900f2 · 12-24-2007, 9:44 AM

I would highly recommend "Schaeffer Oil" Dry Chain lube #227..... I have been using it now for the pass 2 years and very happy with the product..

I would suggest if you have a bunch of guys wanting to purchase this product.. Buy the liquid version (40lb pail) and then break it down to in smaller bottles for your buddies.

machinehead · 12-24-2007, 1:14 PM

PJ1 is what I use.

Doomwitha929 · 12-24-2007, 6:06 PM

I'm glad you all are not developing new motorcycles and technology! I wonder what sort of bikes we would be riding if everytime someone thought about improving something they just said "Dude its a ____ just live with it, it can't be better" Honestly I already know how to do it. There are materials that you could make the rollers from that would require no lube, withstand the loads and heat a chain is subject to and last long enough. The real issue is doing it for a reasonable cost and a $1000 chain probably is not on most peoples wish list.
Point being that people not being staisfied with some aspect is what drives the development of a better product. If no one cared about faster, more agile, less service and longer life from their machines we would still be riding 1000cc singles with 20hp and total loss lubrication systems and leather drive belts.

killer5280 · 12-24-2007, 10:19 PM

MotoGP bikes still use good old fashioned chains. They work well, and they really do require minimal maintenance. To me, it's not an issue; I clean and lube my chain every few hundred miles, the chain lasts several thousand miles, and when it wears out I buy a new one for a hundred bucks or so.
I like Silkolene Pro Chain synthetic lube. It goes on clear and dries to a fairly non sticky coating that won't fling off and make a mess. My second favorite chain lube is Bel-Ray Super Clean.

a2dpro · 12-26-2007, 5:09 PM

DUDE!!!! Metal on Metal friction i.e. chain on sprocket(s) moving really fast will inevitably cause your chain to "gunk-up", just like oil in your engine will never stay that golden colour but eventually turn black due to various metal-on-metal movements within your engine. No amount of chemicals/lubes can stop this from eventually happening.

The only real solution or advance in technology to date in this area is a direct drive/shaft system to the rear wheel. A lot of bikes have them, they maybe don't look as cool as a chain/sprocket combination but hey they exist as a viable alternative. Just my 0.02c worth.

Doomwitha929 · 12-26-2007, 8:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a2dpro

DUDE!!!! Metal on Metal friction i.e. chain on sprocket(s) moving really fast will inevitably cause your chain to "gunk-up", just like oil in your engine will never stay that golden colour but eventually turn black due to various metal-on-metal movements within your engine. No amount of chemicals/lubes can stop this from eventually happening.

The only real solution or advance in technology to date in this area is a direct drive/shaft system to the rear wheel. A lot of bikes have them, they maybe don't look as cool as a chain/sprocket combination but hey they exist as a viable alternative. Just my 0.02c worth.

metal on metal will ... That is why you do not use METALs you use some other material or composite with better firction fighting properties. Aside from that the load on a chain/ sprocket teeth is mostly compression load (on the face of the teeth and chain rollers) and tension load (on the chain link side plates) There is also a sheer load on the chain link pins. Very little wear is a result of frictional loads. The parts that "rub" move against each other very little and are well seperated and lubricated.

May even gunk up... this is from debris from the road, air etc getting into the chain lube. Has nothing to do with the metal wearing. There is some metal sheeding from the sprocket teeth but its very slow and hardly a contributor.
There can be excessive sheeding if your shain is not aligned.

Oil turned black etc ... Nothing to do with metal on metal wear. In a properly lubricated engine there is practicly actual metal on metal contact. If there is parts fail FAST. Oil in an engine seperates the metal parts creating a "hydro dynamic wedge" between them. Basicly a layer of constantly flowing fluid that keeps them from contacting.
The Black in oil comes from a couple things but mostly exhaust gas contamination that gets past the rings and valve guide seals.

A shaft drive is even less efficent then a chain and actually has more issues with friction then a chain.