[CBR954-JUGGERNA]

As most of you know i will be taking the bike apart this winter and doing some necessity ‘s and niceties. Besides haveing it ported, polished and a valve job done is there anything else you would sugjest while I have the bike apart?
I have a full Yoshi pipe and power comander.
Also any sugjestions for the chain and sprocket. Their are so many different comboes out there i dont know what to go with.
Are the aluminum any good?

[CBR954-JUGGERNA]

HUH no answeres well how about what gearing should i go with for a little more bottom and will i need different gearing with the port and polish or will that do it for me?

[Iceman396]

get a 520 conversion with a 15/45 sprocket setup your top end will come down some but who needs that when u get to the new top end faster.

[jesse954]

I went with +2 in the rear, which is awesome, not too much change, but it is noticable. I might go down 1 in the front because I hear good things about how much snap it can put into it. IMHO, I prefer the snap down low because I will almost never use the top end as high as these bikes are capable of. The sprocket I used was black, AFAM hardened aluminum. I only have about 1k miles on it, but so far it's great. I hear you can't go wrong with AFAM, Renthal, and SuperSprox. Vortex is out there a lot, but I've heard they like to wear out quick because the aluminum isn't really hardened like the other. Of course everything is just hear say from me. Good luck with your upgrades.

[Rambolding]

Originally Posted by CBR954-JUGGERNA

As most of you know i will be taking the bike apart this winter and doing some necessity ‘s and niceties. Besides haveing it ported, polished and a valve job done is there anything else you would sugjest while I have the bike apart?
I have a full Yoshi pipe and power comander.
Also any sugjestions for the chain and sprocket. Their are so many different comboes out there i dont know what to go with.
Are the aluminum any good?

like jesse954 said up 2 in the back and down 1 in the front isn't a bad combo. I run that same setup with vortex aluminum sprockets on my bike and don't have any complaints or problems. As far as upgrades, have you thought about velocity stacks? I don't have them on my bike yet but i hear good things from all my buds who have them.

[hyperionjr]

-1/+2 is great. I also have the velocity stacks but it was on the bike when I bought it so I have no idea what they did. Probably need a higher lift cam to get their full potential anyway.


Do you have a steering dampner? If not that is a must.

[CBR954-JUGGERNA]

Originally Posted by hyperionjr

-1/+2 is great. I also have the velocity stacks but it was on the bike when I bought it so I have no idea what they did. Probably need a higher lift cam to get their full potential anyway.


Do you have a steering dampner? If not that is a must.

Of course I have a dampner!! I just rebuilt it a week ago.

I found some V stacks for 250 I may have to check into that a little more.
Are they realy worth it?

[BurtonF166]

Bladeracer - do a quick spellcheck in this thread.

[bladeracer]

Originally Posted by BurtonF166

Bladeracer - do a quick spellcheck in this thread.

I'm trying hard not to :-)

[CBR954-JUGGERNA]

Originally Posted by BurtonF166

Bladeracer - do a quick spellcheck in this thread.

Or you could not be a douch and answer questions. Try being usefull.
Is this some kind of graded english paper?? Didint think so. All you do is make yourselves look like ignorent morons with stupid statements that have nothing to do with the thread.

That is my 2c

[BurtonF166]

I cant help you with terms that dont exist like the word DAMPNER.

In terms of upgrades, maybe do some work on your suspension

[bladeracer]

Originally Posted by CBR954-JUGGERNA

Or you could not be a douch and answer questions. Try being usefull.
Is this some kind of graded english paper?? Didint think so. All you do is make yourselves look like ignorent morons with stupid statements that have nothing to do with the thread.

That is my 2c

Okay then :-)
A steering damper is not essential if the bike is properly set up.
V stacks I doubt are of any benefit on the road and certainly wouldn't be worth US$250 for any power they might be able to free up - at least not in my opinion. You'd get a lot more benefit putting that money into a custom map once you get the engine back together.
Why are you pulling the head off the engine?
Are you milling the head or splitting the gasket?
Are you putting cams in?
Aluminium sprockets are just fine.
Your choice of gearing is entirely up to you. Try dropping one off the front as a starting point and see if you like it.
Why would you need different gearing from a port and polish?
Hyperion - what brand of V stacks does yours have?

[CBR954-JUGGERNA]

you c that is more like it. thanks

And sorry for being a dick. People I work with frustrate me. It was bad timing.

[bladeracer]

Originally Posted by CBR954-JUGGERNA

you c that is more like it. thanks

Personally, I'd put your money into track time and leave the bike stock. What you'll learn on the track will make you much faster and safer regardless of what bike you're on or how much the dyno indicates.

[CBR954-JUGGERNA]

Originally Posted by bladeracer

Okay then :-)
A steering damper is not essential if the bike is properly set up.
V stacks I doubt are of any benefit on the road and certainly wouldn't be worth US$250 for any power they might be able to free up - at least not in my opinion. You'd get a lot more benefit putting that money into a custom map once you get the engine back together.
Why are you pulling the head off the engine?
Are you milling the head or splitting the gasket?
Are you putting cams in?
Aluminium sprockets are just fine.
Your choice of gearing is entirely up to you. Try dropping one off the front as a starting point and see if you like it.
Why would you need different gearing from a port and polish?
Hyperion - what brand of V stacks does yours have?

I dont think I would need different gearing from the port and polish. I was just asking about gearing.
I am pulling the head off becasue I had my #3 Exhaust valve clearance was way to loose and i want to check things. It just so happens that my #3 cylinder is burning a slight bit of oil also. I am going to do a compression and presure check on it ( compress Cylinder and listen whis side , top or bottom the air is coming out) after that I will determin how far I need to tear her down. I figured I may as well get the P and P done if My head will be at the machinest any way. I know with automotive heads that if valve clearance is way off one way or another it can caus ethe valve to put pressure on one side of the valve guide thus causing a bit of a sloppy valve and also allowing the valve seal to leak a bit of oil. I am hoping this is the problem and not the rings. if it is the rings I will have further work done like I said in another post balance blue printing. I am still looking for the sight i had found a few months ago that would do everything i want done for around $2500.
As far as the mapping i have already located a place in Salt Lake City that does it and will give me a military discount. I have not decided on cams yet.
what do you meen by splitting the gasket?? I dont plan on raising the compression if that is what you are refering to. I figure the bike has enough heat the way it is. Speaking of heat its there an aftermarket radiator or somthing???

[bladeracer]

Originally Posted by CBR954-JUGGERNA

I have not decided on cams yet.
what do you meen by splitting the gasket?? I dont plan on raising the compression if that is what you are refering to. I figure the bike has enough heat the way it is. Speaking of heat its there an aftermarket radiator or somthing???

How loose was the valve? If it's loose by more than about half a millimeter then you'd have to be concerned about the condition of the valve face and seat. Compression and leakdown tests will determine that for you.
Yes, splitting the gasket to raise compression rather than machining the head but you can also buy or make thinner gaskets.
Higher compression does increase heat though so you wouldn't do it if the engine already runs above about 90C normally.
I'd probably look at the 1000RR radiator if you wanted a bigger one as they're cheap and readily available.

[CBR954-JUGGERNA]

She runs more along 91-100c, in traffic on a warm day it does not go below 91. what year radiator am i looking fore. Does it mount the same?

[bladeracer]

Originally Posted by CBR954-JUGGERNA

She runs more along 91-100c, in traffic on a warm day it does not go below 91. what year radiator am i looking fore. Does it mount the same?

91C seems on the high side of normal, although 100C and the fan coming on is normal when you're stuck in traffic.

The radiators are different as the 1000RR is significantly narrower and deeper, so I'd expect you'd need to fabricate mounting brackets for it.
I want to put one on my GSXR1000.

[hyperionjr]

The original owner said they were Factory Pro V stacks.

Honestly other than an exhaust to make it sound good and a dampner to make it "safer" I would leave it alone. I would like to get the suspension set-up for my weight though because it does dive a bit under even light breaking.

[CBR954-JUGGERNA]

Originally Posted by bladeracer

Personally, I'd put your money into track time and leave the bike stock. What you'll learn on the track will make you much faster and safer regardless Of what bike you're on or how much the dyno indicates.

i will actually be spending a lot of time at the track next summer Miller motor sports park is about 30 minutes away. They offer track classes for decent prices. I feel like I am waiting on Christmas. Also I plan on getting the suspension done before track time.
I wouldn't be planning on sinking money into it like this but I have to have number #3 repaired any way so I might as well.

[bladeracer]

After you run some tests if it shows you do need to lift the head then it makes sense to tidy it up while you're in there.