600 f2 cam chain tensioner info

james m · 05-17-2006, 3:49 PM

can anyone offer any help or information on how hard it might be or what is involved in fixing a loose and ratteling cam chain tensioner in my 94 cbr 600 f2?? i jus got the bike and have been told a few different things as to what is wrong and what it would take to fix it, but the popular opion is that it is the tensioner.. im not tring to spend a lot of money, is it hard to do?

99bumblebee · 05-21-2006, 9:41 AM

I don't know if the 94 f2 and the 99 f4 engine are similar, but this link explains the steps involved. http://www.bossturbo.com/cbr/howto_cct.shtml . After I took my CBR to a dealer for servicing, I can still hear the clicking.

BizJetGuy · 05-21-2006, 10:03 AM

Submerse the tensioner in some motor oil and prime it until the air bubbles are gone... similar to bleeding brakes.

I was holding a camshaft and bits of valves in my hand after three laps into a practice session at Road Atlanta about 10 years ago because the engine was built by a guy who wasn't aware of the priming of the tensioner. The tensioner failed, timing chain jumped and valves were swallowed.

HRC NICK 11 · 05-21-2006, 2:36 PM

APE makes a manuel one that will solve your problems if you install it correctly.

BizJetGuy · 05-21-2006, 3:38 PM

That is 100% correct. The priming will get you through for free or while you wait on your manual one to arrive.

DoctorFell · 12-21-2006, 8:14 PM

Sorry for the thread necromancy, but can anyone tell me if the CCT for a '95 F3 requires this kind of oil priming, like the F2? I notice the tensioners themselves are slightly different, and my Clymer manual is pretty vague, but I'd like to be sure.

Edit: The F3 version has the key-in-the-bolt hole in back, if that helpsss..

bacon117 · 01-03-2007, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoctorFell

Sorry for the thread necromancy, but can anyone tell me if the CCT for a '95 F3 requires this kind of oil priming, like the F2? I notice the tensioners themselves are slightly different, and my Clymer manual is pretty vague, but I'd like to be sure.

Edit: The F3 version has the key-in-the-bolt hole in back, if that helpsss..

The F4i, which has some similarities to the F3 uses a mechanical tensioner, not hydraulic. The key you see is attached to wound up spring, and will automatically put the proper tension on your chain.

u170who · 09-09-2007, 2:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BizJetGuy

Submerse the tensioner in some motor oil and prime it until the air bubbles are gone... similar to bleeding brakes.

I was holding a camshaft and bits of valves in my hand after three laps into a practice session at Road Atlanta about 10 years ago because the engine was built by a guy who wasn't aware of the priming of the tensioner. The tensioner failed, timing chain jumped and valves were swallowed.

Hi Guys, just found this thread. I am trying to change the tensioner on my F2 that i just got. I looked at the instructions for the f4 on boss.....com and its different. If someone could help me i'd appreciate it. i think the tensioner is on the side, right above pulser cover. Thanks

thewitchdr · 05-22-2008, 12:39 AM

I'm going through the same thing right now. If the bike runs and the noise goes away at higher revs, this indicates cam chain activity.
If it gets louder, you probably have valve trouble.
I thought mine needed a tensioner ($50-100, depending on stock or aftermarket/manual or hydro), but I decided to pull it apart and found that it DOES, but the excessive slack in the chain also took out the guides
($50 a piece).
BEWARE: once this happens you may hear a racheting sound; that is the sound of your cam chain slacking up and catching. If it slacks enough it will skip teeth on the cam sprockets and the next thing you might hear could be the valves connecting with your pistons. This sound will be hard to recognize over the sound of your motor blowing to bits though, so I would get a manual and see what's going on inside.
For starts though, don't run it. There's a hex-shaped 'bolt-looking' part in the center of the round cover, in the center of the right side of the motor (when on bike, facing front).
Drain the oil and then unscrew that. this will show you the pulse generator.
Put a 14 on it and turn it all the way around (clockwise, a few times).
If it stops at any point, your cam timing is wrong and you might scrap the motor by starting it.
At this point, you need a mechanic (unless you are one).

Best wishes

PS: cam chain tensioner install is only an hour at my shop (under $100)
so as long as everything else is cool, under $200 with part & install.
It's something that I am doing at home, but I won't recommend it.