[astorino]

Im in the process of getting and 04 600RR and I will be purchasing and akrapovic race exhaust and a BMC race filter. I wanted to complete the upgrade by installing a usb3 power commander. I know it's plug in but is it really all that simple? Is it okay to tell dynojet what i have on the bike and have them upload the map and I install it myself or should I spend the $300 to have it professionally installed and custom mapped?


I've worked on dirt bikes before and I have many friends who own street bikes so the install wouldn't be too difficult, it was the mapping I wasn't sure about.

thanks

[Triax]

I'd pay to have it mapped, even the ones you dowload aren't perfect because of altitude.

[astorino]

so when i go back home this summer to connecticut pay another 350 to remap it? ill only be their for 3 months then back down here

[sinfuldragon]

have it mapped when you order it. while it may not be spot on it will be better than just plugging it in. most places will do the mapping for free when you order it, might as well take advantage of it.

[analogbear]

It is so easy to remap it, just get the thing. Install, with only the bike's own tools, takes about 15 Min. I found the hardest part getting the waterproof boots on without the o-rings squirreling up.

Custom maps are worth it.

The list of included maps with the pcIII usb software are pretty extensive. Match your pipe interior diameter and length with one of the listed examples, and you will be fine at first. You will get smoother response, quicker response, and potentially the power gains you want. I have i custom map out of 2 PC's and I had mine tuned for low-mid power...I am heavier, and needed more torque and low-end HP...I never really open the 929 to 100%, so the benefit of my custom map was getting more power exactly where and when I want it, rather than more at 100% throttle...The factory Pc maps don't change the throttle position and timing too much when NOT under 100% throttle.

Get the custom map, if you can afford it. Each bike is different.

[astorino]

thanks analogbear

i was planning having it mailed to me with a basic map installed and then me and my buddy install it. Then ride it for a week or two until i get 350 to do the custom map. gonna buy it from hardracing.com for 258

I'm rather light for my size. Im about 6'2" weighting about 175 so i prob wont need much low end ( just get rid of the drop off at the low but add most of the change to the mid and high rpm's.

I also am going to be removing some breather valve my friend told me about. it takes some of the intake air and adds it to the exhaust to make it nicer on the enviroment...am i better off leaving the stock filter in or replacing it with a BMC race filter

[analogbear]

Originally Posted by astorino

thanks analogbear

i was planning having it mailed to me with a basic map installed and then me and my buddy install it. Then ride it for a week or two until i get 350 to do the custom map. gonna buy it from hardracing.com for 258

I'm rather light for my size. Im about 6'2" weighting about 175 so i prob wont need much low end ( just get rid of the drop off at the low but add most of the change to the mid and high rpm's.

I also am going to be removing some breather valve my friend told me about. it takes some of the intake air and adds it to the exhaust to make it nicer on the enviroment...am i better off leaving the stock filter in or replacing it with a BMC race filter

Go stock...The aftermarket stuff is not necessarily better. The price seems great.
Do you have a computer?

[slickwill]

Somewhere out there is a dyno sheet from a 1000RR with the stock filter and a BMC filter and they lost a couple HP with the BMC. They surmise that the BMC allowed so much air in that the airflow became turbulent. The airbox and intake is carefully tuned to achieve what is called "laminar airflow" at the widest variety of RPMs. If you overwhelm the system and start throwing in to much air the flow becomes "turbulent airflow" and the cylinders don't fill as efficiently. Torque and HP then suffer. However your situation is different. Since you are going to a full exhaust you might be able to flow enough extra air out the back of the system to smooth out the extra flow on the intake side that a BMC filter gives. The only way to truly know would be to have it custom tuned and dynoed with both the stock and BMC filter and see what you get. My guess is that the stock filter will give better low and mid range torque like what analogbear likes to have and what I would want, and then I would guess that you would lose some low and mid range and gain some peak HP. Good smooth laminar airflow is key to low and mid range torque and HP. Massive airflow for cylinder filling at high RPM is the key to high top end HP. The two are generally mutually exclusive to a point unless you use technology like variable length intake runners. If you build an intake for smooth, efficient cylinder filling at low and mid range it generally doesn't breath well enough to produce huge top end power. If you build an intake that allows huge amounts of air to flow for peak HP at high RPM then it doesn't fill well at low and mid range because you don't get laminar airflow. Like analogbear said the stock stuff is pretty good. I went through a lot of this stuff when I built an engine for my truck. The principles are the same. I also had to spend a lot of time studying laminar vs turbulent flow in blood vessels in med school and in turn learned a lot about engines. I even got my old physics book and refreshed some of my knowledge. This is probably more than you ever wanted to know about this stuff but maybe you will have a better understanding of what is going on in your engine.

P.S. - some of the dyno sheets for Sato's full systems show impressive low-mid and high RPM gains. Some engineer that is smarter than me got something very right on those systems.

[astorino]

i'll take all that into consideration as I'm having them tune it. I'll see if I can talk them into trying a quick dyno with both w/o power commander then tune it with the better one. I am pretty new at this street riding thing so I'm not sure yet if I want mor elow mid or high. I'm probably light enough I don't need a shitload of torque because of my weight.

All that info was great, thanks slickwill.

Do you have a computer?

yes I have a laptop that is maxed out that I use for school. hope your not gonna suggest I custom tune my own commander... I'd have no clue what to do but I guess I could try. If I messed it up to much i could just unplug the commander adn bring it to the tuning center.

[slickwill]

You wouldn't tune it yourself with the laptop but you can download the software (not very big) and then you can have an unlimited number of maps on your laptop and then anytime you want a different map you just connect the laptop and transfer to the map you want to use. Theoretically you could have a map that gives low-mid power, one that gives top end power, and one that is maximized for best fuel mileage. Everyday riding use the low-mid map, track time - load up the top end power, trip to grandmas house in Seattle - load up the fuel mileage (buy a plane ticket). However this is limited by the amount of money you want to spend on tuning. To start out though you can try the different generic maps at will just by hooking up your laptop.

I'm also very light. 5'10" 150 pounds with ALL of my gear. However low and mid power is much more usable, as is part throttle power. Unless you are on a track you will find it is very difficult to ever be running 100% throttle. If you are somewhere where you can always keep it wide open all the time then you definitely want to maximize the top. For an idea of what the power curve looks like at different RPMs see my thread "Shift Points" or something like that. The reality is that it is very hard to ever ride on the street using those points, you will usually be shifting somewhat lower, and power down lower is nice. This isn't to change your mind or anything. An extreme top end is a kick in the pants. However it makes your power curve more like a 2-stroke, either on or off.

Found the link Shift Points

[astorino]

okay I could probably do that. I was probabl going to consider low and mid since I would be wreckless and drag my friends. Im sure even if tuned in mid the top end would still be able to do a serious highway pull too (start at maybe 60 and then go?)

I'm also checking into getting a used palm and upload numerous maps onto that so i don't have to constantly carry a laptop. so if i get the urge while sititng at a cafe and my buddies wanna have fun just upload a new map...theoretically it should work.


I'll check out that other thread.

you also said

However it makes your power curve more like a 2-stroke, either on or off.

when you tune it for the top end you reall have absolutely no bottom but at about 10k it slams and just pulls, huh?