525 to 520 Conversion and the Ass Dyno to follow

*sinfuldragon* · 05-07-2007, 8:59 AM

Changed over to the 520 this weekend. Old chain was pretty wore out so I figured why not. Taking the front sprocket off was the worse part of it all. Holding the rear brake, leaning over the bike and had to use a 4 ft pipe on the end of the socket wrench to break it free. was all down hill after that.
So now its all back together and to be honest, I'm not sure that I actually feel a difference

. I of course think that I do but that could simply be due to the excitement of having the new parts on (after I put on the steering damper I felt another 2-5 HP... no sh*t....). Any way. there are pics in my gallery of the old parts Vs the new. That rear sprocket has to be at least 2 pounds lighter than the old one... and it looks cooler as well

The front sprocket is lighter as well.

nedro · 05-07-2007, 1:50 PM

Your chain should also be about 20% lighter.
Why do you think a steering damper caused your engine to spin quicker?

Atreyu · 05-07-2007, 1:59 PM

he's just being a smartass

*sinfuldragon* · 05-07-2007, 2:23 PM

correct I was just being a smartass.
The chain is in fact lighter also... forgot to mention that and its silver.. I hated that damn gold colored chain.

One thing... when I put on the new chain I still had to move the tire back (I think one and a half turns on the adjusting screws). Is that normal or should it have been snug with the adjusters adjusted all the way in?

*Quick 26* · 05-07-2007, 2:25 PM

congrats on the new toy, i geuss i need to ditch the hesd and get a reg one so i can get my 5hp

*zfrilly2* · 05-07-2007, 2:29 PM

You should have to adjust the adjusters. They wouldn't want the chain to be too short.

*sinfuldragon* · 05-07-2007, 2:34 PM

aahh good point.

That sticker that shows chain slack I kid you not right now says that I need to replace my chain.... stupid stickers not accurate at all

*zfrilly2* · 05-07-2007, 2:39 PM

Could you remove a chain link and still have enough?

*sinfuldragon* · 05-07-2007, 3:20 PM

I would say yes but then I'm not certain if I would be able to put the rear tire fully forward and just slip the chain over the sprocket anymore. Might but might not. Also that one and a half I meant 3 and a half turns (I'm really out of it today).

slickwill · 05-07-2007, 6:32 PM

Did you use a chain already cut to length? 108 links?

*sinfuldragon* · 05-08-2007, 7:55 AM

Not sure how many links are in the chain... but now I know when I get home I'll be counting them.

*Quick 26* · 05-08-2007, 8:26 AM

it should of been on the package

*sinfuldragon* · 05-08-2007, 8:38 AM

that will make counting easier.

Also the package said to install the clip (yes I went clip, the rivet tool is on order) with the opening NOT facing the rotational direction... pretty sure that my last one was the opposite way.

*Quick 26* · 05-08-2007, 8:40 AM

the open end, i like to put toward the back of the bike , closed end going in direction of rotation, and the actual clip itself toward the wheel.

*sinfuldragon* · 05-08-2007, 10:11 AM

is that to say that you are putting the clip on the inside of the chain (closest to the swingarm, not in plain view)?

*Quick 26* · 05-08-2007, 10:16 AM

yeah, inbetween the sprocket and tire

*sinfuldragon* · 05-08-2007, 10:35 AM

Interesting.... I do not have mine like this. Should I change it over? what could be gained or lost by this?

slickwill · 05-08-2007, 10:54 AM

I heard the same thing once before but wasn't given any reasoning?

nedro · 05-08-2007, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sinfuldragon

Interesting.... I do not have mine like this. Should I change it over? what could be gained or lost by this?

I would not suggest this. if you can't see it, you won't worry about it until it comes apart. On top of that, I would never consider a clip type masterlink on something over 100 HP.

On the chain count; it's probably a 110 chain which is standard.
If you look at the entire adjustment, how far out is it in percentages? 100% being all the way out.

*sinfuldragon* · 05-08-2007, 11:23 AM

I want to rivet the masterlink but I have to wait for the tool to arrive. The clip style was on it before so I figured it wouldn't hurt to slam another one on there at least for now (famous last words I'm sure).

I would say tops of 15% out.

nedro · 05-08-2007, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sinfuldragon

I want to rivet the masterlink but I have to wait for the tool to arrive. The clip style was on it before so I figured it wouldn't hurt to slam another one on there at least for now (famous last words I'm sure).

I would say tops of 15% out.

I'm not getting it. Probably me, but lets try this.

I..................I
<<<front of bike<<<
Use the scale above as the adjusting slot. Put another "I" where your adjustment falls.

*sinfuldragon* · 05-08-2007, 11:36 AM

We are missing each other on this one aren't we..... good idea on how to clearify this matter.

This is just me trying to remember off the top of my head but I'm pretty sure this is close to correct
I....I.............I

*Quick 26* · 05-08-2007, 11:38 AM

a master link should be just as strong, and as far as the clip goes, it habit from atv, you want the clip as hidden as possible and the closed end going in the direction of the chain so that the force is constantly pushing the clip on the link instead of trying to push it off. we also do it because its harder for debri to get hung in it if its most inboard and going in rotation

*Quick 26* · 05-08-2007, 11:40 AM

and that is what my atvs mainly use are 520 chains. it takes a hell of a lot to break a master link, its just as strong as a rivit

nedro · 05-08-2007, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sinfuldragon

We are missing each other on this one aren't we..... good idea on how to clearify this matter.

This is just me trying to remember off the top of my head but I'm pretty sure this is close to correct
I....I.............I

From the pic, it looks like the axle is in the forward third of the adjuster. This is a good place for the axle to be. If it were all the way forward, the steering might get a bit scetchy. If it were all the way back, the steering would slow down.

BTW, that sticker that shows when to replace the chain only works for the original set-up with original gearing.

nedro · 05-08-2007, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quick 26

and that is what my atvs mainly use are 520 chains. it takes a hell of a lot to break a master link, its just as strong as a rivit

I'm guessing that none of your ATVs are running 100+HP. If you don't think that the chain is flexing at those power inputs, you are mistaken. This is why you need a rivit master.
The clip master is just as strong as the rivit master. That is true. But the clip master's weak link is the clip. The rivit master does not have a weak link to it.

*zfrilly2* · 05-08-2007, 11:57 AM

Atv's might not have 100hp but the chain takes abuse in different ways, the wheels aren't always on the ground. When landing jumps, for instance, the chain gates quite a jerk and this is also true on rough terrain continous jerking.

*Quick 26* · 05-08-2007, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nedro

I'm guessing that none of your ATVs are running 100+HP. If you don't think that the chain is flexing at those power inputs, you are mistaken. This is why you need a rivit master.
The clip master is just as strong as the rivit master. That is true. But the clip master's weak link is the clip. The rivit master does not have a weak link to it.

i do have one that is right near it and i launch it with slicks on it at the track. i agree tha clip itself is the weak link. if you dont know how to rivit properly they are more subject to fly apart.

when i say launch i dont mean slip the clutch, i mean throttle open clutch out. a bike has maybe 2 to 3 inches of contact where as the atv has a contack of damn near 12 inches