f3 clutch problem

bigkeyz · 10-02-2007, 4:41 PM

I have a 96 f3 that i think i burnt the clutch last night. The bike will only start to get power in any gear when my clutch is released for like 1-2 seconds.no gradual power gain as the clutch is slowly released does anyone know how hard of a job this is I have new friction plates already i just hope thats what it is.

Triax · 10-08-2007, 6:14 PM

Not to hard just pull the cover off and replace them clutch fibers the same way they were taken out and put it all back in and put the cover back on.

bigkeyz · 10-08-2007, 8:17 PM

i did that and replaced the friction plates it was better but would slip at highrpms and then it went back to being terrible again. im at a lost

SoCal94F2 · 10-09-2007, 2:49 AM

Did you try adjusting the cable so the lever has just a little slack?

Are you running an oil additive by chance? Many of those were designed for cars which do not use a wet clutch system.

When you replaced the clutch disks where any of them stripped at the drum? Is the drum stripped in some spots?

Thats about all I can think of at the moment.

bigkeyz · 10-09-2007, 5:43 PM

the friction plates looked a little more worn then the new ones, but there was nothing that really jumped out at ya. I didnt check the drum. do you think its best to just order new plates and springs? I was just looking at a barnett kevlar kit for $129. I'd hate to buy it and not fix the problem. I also havent let slack out of the cable Im gonna try that later.

bigkeyz · 10-13-2007, 8:43 PM

Ok I let the slack out and no good, the bike switches gears and all but it feels like im driving while holding in the clutch halfway at all times. Could something be getting stuck causing the clutch to stay engaged.

BDA116 · 10-13-2007, 11:31 PM

Barnett clutches suck major ass. Their springs are good, but the best clutch parts are OEM. Sounds to me like you need to get a service manual and make sure the cable is actually adjusted to spec first and foremost.
Second, you have to stop using oil with friction modifiers in them like moly.
Then, get a new set of both fibers and steels from a Honda dealership and install them all correctly. Installing a set of fibers in with old steels that are worn, burned or coated with moly oil or the like will only serve to destroy the new fibers in a matter of minutes.
Did you put the one different plate in the correct position? What about the judder spring?

bigkeyz · 10-14-2007, 9:12 PM

I didnt remember seeing a different plate i thought they were all the same, i give up just gonna bring it to someone, fix, then sell it i been meaning to get a new bike anyway.

BDA116 · 10-14-2007, 10:32 PM

Yep, on the F3 the outer disk is different from the others, must go in a certain way.

sospelotudo · 12-24-2007, 2:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BDA116

...stop using oil with friction modifiers in them...

I just wanted to make sure that wasn't missed. It is not uncommon for people to put automotive engine oil in their bikes. Don't. Use motorcycle engine oil. That, along with poorly adjusted cables help keep us mechanics in business.

crazythoughts · 07-25-2008, 1:03 PM

I'm having the same problem with a new clutch kit still slipping. When I inspected the friction plates, I couldn't find a difference between any of the plates. What is different about the outer friction plate? I'm suspecting that the kit was not specific to my bike.

TX_CBRRIDER88 · 09-14-2008, 5:00 PM

I have no idea what the problem is with your bike, but i'm having a problem I wanted to see if anyone could help me with ? Whats happening is while my bike is cold my clutch is making a clicking sound. It goes away when you pull the clutch in. Comon sence tells me that I need to have my clutch adjusted. How hard is it to adjust a clutch on a 94' cbr f2 ?