Strange Noise After Revving (??)

95Roguem3 · 05-20-2008, 10:02 AM

This is my first post and comes after I went to look at a 2001 CBR F4i yesterday. The bike looked to be in good condition and the price is right around where I want to be including the little extras he has.

The one issue I had with the bike was that after revving it (to a max of 5k or so) as the motor decelerated it made kind of a rattling or clanking sound. It only lasted for a second or so as the revs dropped and then the bike sounded normal again and went back idling beautifully. I checked YouTube for other F4is revving and it doesnt seem like a common or acceptable noise.

Anyone have any idea what that might be? I know its vague and I dont have a sound clip, but Im just curious if anyone else perhaps has heard this same issue or experienced it for themselves?

Red Rider · 05-20-2008, 10:31 AM

Probably the cam chain.

95Roguem3 · 05-20-2008, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Rider

Probably the cam chain.

Thanks for the quick reply.

1) Any idea on what it would cost to have a Honda Tech fix that?

2) Is it something that should be addressed ASAP?

3) Does the fact that he's been riding it for ~1k miles with the noise mean things have gotten worse?

Thanks again!

-Jack

Red Rider · 05-20-2008, 11:19 AM

It's probably a loose or worn cam chain and/or cam chain tensioner. It's a relatively easy and common repair on CBR's, so it shouldn't cost much. Riding it doesn't help the problem...

95Roguem3 · 05-20-2008, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Rider

It's probably a loose or worn cam chain and/or cam chain tensioner. It's a relatively easy and common repair on CBR's, so it shouldn't cost much. Riding it doesn't help the problem...

I just got two quotes of $200 and $240 for the labor of replacing the tensioner + $50 for an APE tensioner.

Is there a good likelihood of the chain being worn as well as the tensioner?

Any good way to tell if the chain is worn?

chukky · 05-20-2008, 12:32 PM

Why bother trying to find out,just move on and look for a decent one that doesnt have any funny noises!!!!!!!!

95Roguem3 · 05-20-2008, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chukky

Why bother trying to find out,just move on and look for a decent one that doesnt have any funny noises!!!!!!!!

Already back in the hunt!

I found another one, different color scheme, though with a bit of fairing rash at the bottom (will get more pics at 4pm according to seller) and he wants $400 more than the original bike Im looking at.

Even if we haggle down $200, I spend about $50 more getting Bike #1 fixed and dont have the rashed up fairings.

Red Rider · 05-20-2008, 2:56 PM

How many miles on the bike? Those labor rates sound a little high. You could replace the tensioner if you're somewhat mechanically inclined.

95Roguem3 · 05-20-2008, 3:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Rider

How many miles on the bike? Those labor rates sound a little high. You could replace the tensioner if you're somewhat mechanically inclined.

The bike has nearly 17k miles on it. The more I read, the more it seems like the OEM tensioner lasts about 6-10k miles, so it would make sense that this were the 2nd one to be going bad for this bike.

The place that quoted me $240 said 4 hours.

Most CBR sites say its takes about 3 for an avg. Joe to do. Im only nervous as while I can be mechanical I always second-guess myself. Im thinking I might see if there is a local tech who wants to take a few hours and get paid maybe $150 to do this for me.

chukky · 05-21-2008, 3:00 AM

I'd say a bit of fairing rash is better than a engine noise.Better the devil you know than the one you dont know
Cheers
Chukky

95Roguem3 · 05-21-2008, 5:34 PM

Chukky,

Thanks for the advice. I ended up getting the seller to come down enough to more than cover this repair and any others that pop up in the near future.

My question now is that I have been reading for the past 1.5 days about these CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) and cant decide between the Manual unit from APE ($51) or a Honda OEM replacement ($50). The issue is that the Honda unit is fool-proof for installation but will fail after 10k miles (some quicker than that). The APE is good for a lifetime, but because I would be adjusting the tension myself could allow me to make it too tight and prematurely wear the chain, etc

Any ideas on which you guys would go with?

Thanks!

Red Rider · 05-21-2008, 9:37 PM

For $50, buy the OEM and don't worry about it for 10,000 (or more) miles...

95Roguem3 · 05-21-2008, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Rider

For $50, buy the OEM and don't worry about it for 10,000 (or more) miles...

Thats kinda what I was thinking as I dont even know that Ill have the bike for 10k miles.

That said, Ive heard of some guys replacing with the stock unit only to have received a semi-faulty stock unit or who hear the noise back almost immediately.

Im going to talk more to the guy doing the swap with me and see what he recommends as he just did one on his bike.

Thanks!