[AlPatel]

I had the following issue with my bike. It would not start if let overnight. I got a trickle charger and the bike would start the next day. After a while even after trickle charing it the bike would not start. I figure bad battery. Got a new one. Installed it and the bike started. Stalled it going up the drive, and it would not start. I got a multimeter and the the votage on the battery is 13.06 after charging. When I hook it up to the bike things look fine. I turned it on quickly (you;ll seee why later) and let it run. While it was running the bike didn't stop. I turned it off and tried again. Click..CLick..Click.. The battery doesn't have enough juice to start the bike. In addition when I hook up the volt meter to the battery and turn the bike to the on position, I can see the voltage drop quickly. Within one start attempt and 2-3 seconds the voltage drops to 7.6V. After I set the bike to the off position the voltage returne to 13.06V. The wierd thing is I can see the head light quickly dying. I saw other posts about the RR needed to be replaced. I was wondering if the huge voltage drop I see is usually related to a bad RR or usually something else.

[AlPatel]

Update: I ran the following Test:

(Specification for maximum battery charging voltage with the engine at 4,000 rpm is 13 to 15.5 VDC)
Mine read 13.7

(Specification for stator coil resistance is .2 to 2.5 Ohms of resistance.
Mine read .3

(Specification for stator coil shorts test is no continuity)
Mine verified no continuity

(Specification for stator coil AC voltage output is at least 45 VAC at 4,000 rpm)
It read 45 VAc but I did notice that when I disconnected the three pin white plastic coupler with the three yellow wires in it to perform this test I only had a few seconds (~10) as the bike started draining the battery (Light dims and the bike starts to stall). As soon as I reconnect the coupler the bike was fine (Light strong as ever)

I will run the rectifer diode tests tommorow; the wires are a little difficult to get to.