starter elimination on F4 track bike - Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org
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post #1 of 4 Old 01-15-2012, 8:00 AM Thread Starter
 
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starter elimination on F4 track bike

2000 cbr600 F4, I am considering removing the starter motor, and somehow turning the motor over with a handheld. I have done some searching and nothing comes up. Do any of the track day or race guys know how to make it so you remove the starter and then use a hand held (obviously something that sits on the ground and has huge levers) starting device?

I'm sort of thinking 'budget' and not an expensive electric power roller for the rear wheel.

pneumatic is also something I'd consider.

My idea is to shave off as much as possible so I can have a nice track day bike.
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post #2 of 4 Old 01-15-2012, 9:22 AM
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Re: starter elimination on F4 track bike

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Originally Posted by dpohlson View Post
2000 cbr600 F4, I am considering removing the starter motor, and somehow turning the motor over with a handheld. I have done some searching and nothing comes up. Do any of the track day or race guys know how to make it so you remove the starter and then use a hand held (obviously something that sits on the ground and has huge levers) starting device?

I'm sort of thinking 'budget' and not an expensive electric power roller for the rear wheel.

pneumatic is also something I'd consider.

My idea is to shave off as much as possible so I can have a nice track day bike.

Never bothered myself, just bump start it.
All of the floor starters I've seen/used are just a 9" angle grinder with a go-kart wheel and tyre on it.
The other system uses a socket fixed to the end of the crank so you can use an electric or pneumatic drill. It has the drawbacks of adding weight to the crank and requiring an effective oil seal in the engine cover, and runs the risk of the starter breaking the bolt due to the heavy whack of applying power to it.
Removing the starter system is fairly pointless if you're retaining the charging system though. I'd get rid of the charging system before the starter.
You could also look at modifying the fuel tank so you can do away with the fuel pump.

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
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Re: starter elimination on F4 track bike

So you're saying it is possible to not only remove the starter motor, but ALSO the charging system, and the fuel pump with some mods to the tank? That's great thanks.

I will search around for the fuel tank modification you're referring too. Is it a matter of venting, or actually cutting and re-welding the shape of the tank? I'll have to pull out my tig welder, study my electric diagrams too.
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post #4 of 4 Old 01-16-2012, 2:28 AM
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Re: starter elimination on F4 track bike

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Originally Posted by dpohlson View Post
So you're saying it is possible to not only remove the starter motor, but ALSO the charging system, and the fuel pump with some mods to the tank? That's great thanks.

I will search around for the fuel tank modification you're referring too. Is it a matter of venting, or actually cutting and re-welding the shape of the tank? I'll have to pull out my tig welder, study my electric diagrams too.
There is no point in removing just the starter motor as the minor weight loss is barely offset by the problem of starting the engine by alternate means.
I race my 929 without the charging system or starter which saves almost 8kg. The 929 starter motor is only 1680gms. Removing the starter clutch, solenoid and idler saves another 700gms. The alternator rotor though is nearly 1800gm of extra weight on the crankshaft - making it almost 25% heavier.
You only need the pump because the fuel in the tank is below the height of the float valves in the carbs. If you keep your fuel above that level you don't need the pump.
If you were running without the charging system then it may be worth modifying the fuel tank so as to do away with the pump to conserve battery power.
I would suggest running without the charging system to see how long the battery lasts first as it may not be necessary to worry about the pump.
The 929 though is injected with a high-pressure pump so it really saps battery power - thirty minutes is about all the battery is good for at race pace with bump starts.
Alternatively, you could perhaps run a second battery just for the pump.
How long are the sessions and how many would you be doing in a day?
If you haven't done track time without the rotor on the crank I definately recommend trying it. I absolutely love the way the engine spins up with that weight removed.

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