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dedicating the CBR929RR to track use. Questions

2K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  Sabotage 
#1 ·
I'll start off with the why first. I was in a motorcycle accident on may 14 on my Aprilia Tuono 1000 R Factory which totaled the bike, caused a minor TBI, broke my left thumb, and would have severed my leg off my body had I not been wearing textile protective pants. I still have my CBR929RR that I had intended to sell for 3k-3500. Due to this accident and my long recovery I have ahead of me I have time to think about what motorcycling means to me and despite this life changing crash I still love motorcycles. Amid all this I have struggled with what I want to do next and since I can't really ride the CBR on the road any more because it hurts my back on long rides as would any replacement sport bike I think my best plan would be to take my adventurous side to the track with my 929 and get something else like possibly a FZ-07 for day rides and light touring.

Ok. So I have taken the CBR to the track but is needs a small bit of work before hand namely a fork service as iots just starting to leak and the suspension guy at my track day said I should get it re sprung and upgraded. I priced that out at 450 for a full rebuild and gold valve and spring upgrade. Also the friends of mine that have been riding it from time to time have been telling me the brakes are had to use and they hjave to pull very hard on the lever. Previously it was 2 finger stoppie capable

The bike has basic track upgrades like braided lines and EBC pads. It has a slip on and power commander as well as -1 on the front sprocket although the chain is still the original chain and has 17k miles on it. I have Q3's with plenty of tread as well.

I have some upgrades that I have been thinking about and wanted to get some feedback on.

1. with the forks being upgraded I have to ask how long will I be able to make due with the stock shock. Is it good enough that I will be able to keep it on until after I am fast enough to move to slicks or will I hit its limit earlier than that. I am not fast now but I have good lines and am intent on putting in the time to improve.

2. 520 chain conversion with -1/+2 gearing. with how old the stock chain is it might be wise to look into replacing it all after a few track days. interested in hearing thoughts on a 520 and weather to go with steel or aluminium rear sprocket.

3. Rearsets. I am looking at these both ti get higher pegs and use the GP shift so I will not have my toes pointing down wile cornering since last time I ought my boot. Thing is I am not sure I could swing the high price for named brand. Whats the thought on these 110 dollar ebay units?

4. Penske or Nitron 2 way adjustable shock. This is of course going to be the big upgrade that really changes the bike but also expensive. The real question with this is how fast will I out perform what the stock unit can give me.


5. Other things I need or am interested in are better tank grip pads, a seat back bump stop or something to help bracing on acceleration, possible master cylinder upgrade. 1/4 or 1/6 turn throttle. Race fairings when the time is right.


Very interested to hear peoples takes on this stuff.
 
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#2 ·
First of all, sorry to hear about your accident, hope you heal quickly. Definitely get the fork done. The stock shock should be fine until you get faster but try to get the new shock quickly. It does have 17k miles on it. The biggest thing with the stock shock is they overheat quickly and have less adjustments than a good aftermarket shock. As far as gearing, generally speaking, you'd want to redline 6th gear at the braking markers on the longest/fastest straight. I'd go with steel sprockets. Keep you eye on ebay, you might find some quality rearsets barely used for a decent price same for the shock. I've got 4 or 5 sets of good named rearsets for my F2 I bought at extremely cheap, cause I kept looking. Also bought a couple used Fox shocks for almost as cheap as the used rearsets I bought. I also used the standard Motion Pro replacement Yamaha R6 throttle tube on my F2, I believe its 1/4. Also Q3's are awesome tires. I can go faster around Summit Point on my stock 08 CBR 1k with Q3's as I can on my track only 94 CBR 600 F2 with racing slicks and Fox shock rebuilt for my weight. Granted it probably has to do with the horsepower difference but what the heck.
 
#3 ·
1) if I read correctly you stated the fork are starting to leak. If that's accurate get them serviced immediately. The demand on the track will have them leak all over your brakes.

2) Frank likes steel, I like aluminum sprockets. The light weight of the aluminum is free house power. If you're looking for performance then aluminum, if your looking for longevity steel.

3) I've read a lot of successful reviews with the eBay Rearsets among track riders. I went with the eBay rearset on my new track bike build. It looks really good and seems very sturdy. But if you look around, as Frank stated you will find good deals on brand names. One thing a lot of the guys using them stated is that you have to use red loctite as they loosen up. I still went with blue, if they start to loosen I'll go red as suggested

4) some people just service with revalve and re-spring and they run with the expert group. You can send your shock and forks to someone like Daugherty and he'll set your suspension up for competitive track duties for like $5-6 hundred, completely serviced.

5) with the upgrades listed don't forget brake pads. If you have the regular ebc FA-HH, they will be fine until you start to get faster. Many people do not realize that there are three types of ebc hh. The people who speak badly about the ebc for track use, it's because they don't realize there are different hh. FA is for street use, EPFA is for street and track. GPFA should only be used for track. I used FA at first and after I started getting fast, I realized why people said they sucked. On the street, I thought they were great. I really like the EPFA so that's what I'm currently using. They are great for trail braking
 
#4 ·
I am going to rebuild the forks and do the valve upgrade and new spring before I hit the track. I will leave the stock shock as is as it was adjusted to my weight and barely able to get the damping set within adjustment range but it should last a while. is there a basic rebuild or service I can do to the shock that will get me an upgrade without an 950 dollar shock until I get faster? Also when I go shock shopping is 2 way fine for track days? I didn't see much point going 3 way unless I was racing which I won't be doing on the 929.

I am not sure what EBC brakes I got off SBTG a while back but they have served me great for street and surviving hard braking at turn 1 WSIR from 145 mph without too much issue but WSIR is not a really heavy braking track. Its been sitting though and my son says when he rode it the brakes barely worked so perhaps the MC needs replacing but I'll give it a good bleed first.
 
#5 ·
I may have been unclear when I started above you can send your fork and shock to be serviced for race use. But what that meant is you can send your shock out which will be resprung, revalved, fluid changed, cleaned, that will work almost as good as an aftermarket expensive shock.

With the brake pads, you can just remove one and see what part number is stamped on the back.

With the MC, if the bleeding doors not work, if your not buying new, a rebuild meat be too your advantage. The rebuild is pretty easy, the mist important tool needed is a circlip pliers
 
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