changing brake lines help..

roadrash929 · 05-26-2004, 1:07 AM

Ok I am changing my brake lines to stainless steel braided.

What is the best way to do this.. just take them off and replace then bleed?

Bleed them completely empty then change em?

I guess I need the best way from any trial and errors out there. Its a 929 with the goodridge lines..

thanks

HondaGalToo · 05-26-2004, 8:03 AM

You need to bleed the old lines out until they're empty first, or you'll make a mess. Cover everything up...instrument panel, wheels, etc., as brake fluid is very caustic and it only has to drip on something for a second to remove paint or crack plastic. Install the new lines, making sure to use a crush washer on both sides of the banjo (the same way as is on your stock lines). Remove the windscreen to make it easier to fill the master cylinder reservoir. Fill it with fresh brake fluid and keep an eye on it as you bleed so it doesn't run dry. Attach tubing to the bleeder nipple on the caliper and put the tubing in an old soda bottle or can. Open the bleeder nipple at the caliper, squeeze the lever, close the bleeder nipple, release the lever. Repeat this sequence a zillion times. It'll take quite awhile to prime the empty lines. Keep doing this until there are no air bubbles visible in the tubing.

Let it sit overnight (close all bleeder nipples) with the brake lever held in with a bungee cord. The next day, remove the bungee cord and bleed again. You can also lightly tap the lines with the handle of a screwdriver to dislodge any air bubbles that may be trapped.

Edit: When bleeding out the old lines, put on the tubing and put the end in a bottle as described for bleeding the new lines

Zeeman · 05-26-2004, 9:01 AM

Nice instruction HGT - I've done this twice, and I have just learned something new for the third brake line install...

Z...

SuperDave · 05-26-2004, 9:03 AM

What HGT said (good reply btw). You WILL have some brake fluid spill out from the stock lines when you disconnect from the calipers and master cylinder, no matter how much you bleed them. Have towels over everything, tank, instrument cluster, front fender, etc. And like HGT said, remove the windscreen to gain easier access to master cylinder and resovoir. And finally, don't go crazy when tightening the new lines, follow torque specs.

ReaperAZ · 05-26-2004, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadrash929

Ok I am changing my brake lines to stainless steel braided.

What is the best way to do this.. just take them off and replace then bleed?

Bleed them completely empty then change em?

I guess I need the best way from any trial and errors out there. Its a 929 with the goodridge lines..

thanks

What...no one on Stuntlife will help ya out?

Dano

roadrash929 · 05-26-2004, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ReaperAZ

What...no one on Stuntlife will help ya out?

Dano

Well I ask here when I need real advice.. what are you a closet stuntlifer too?!

SuperDave · 05-26-2004, 11:12 AM

HondaGal · 05-26-2004, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperDave

What HGT said (good reply btw). You WILL have some brake fluid spill out from the stock lines when you disconnect from the calipers and master cylinder, no matter how much you bleed them. Have towels over everything, tank, instrument cluster, front fender, etc. And like HGT said, remove the windscreen to gain easier access to master cylinder and resovoir. And finally, don't go crazy when tightening the new lines, follow torque specs.

Don't forget to wash off any brake fluid residue if it gets on your bike. Wiping it off with a rag may not get all the fluid and you'll soon learn the hard way what brake fluid will do to paint if it sits too long. I use soap and water.

ReaperAZ · 05-26-2004, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadrash929

Well I ask here when I need real advice.. what are you a closet stuntlifer too?!

No, I have some friends whom I haven't seen in a long time and they all stunt. I check out the pics and stuff they post.

As far as advice...yeah be very carefull with that damn brake fluid...some nasty stuff. I just switched out my lines for a set of Galfers and I had two friends help me out. Was really easy...one to pump and keep and eye on the fluid level and one on each side to crack the bleeders.

Dano

brian48130 · 05-26-2004, 12:33 PM

As someone who did this with no instructions...

1) Brake fluid really isn't as bad as people here are saying. I sprayed it all over metal/paint/face/hair/etc and the only problem was a small mark left by a drip I didn't clean off.

2) No joke about overtightening, I snapped two banjo bolts.

3) Make sure you know how to bleed brakes properly, I spent an hour doing it the wrong way, letting as much air get sucked in as was pushed out...

Learn from others mistakes.

Red Rider · 05-26-2004, 1:21 PM

All excellent advice...

Couple of suggestions - If you have a Mity-Vac you can draw the fluid through the new lines quickly and get right to bleeding. You may also want to consider getting SpeedBleeders to make the bleeding process a lot easier. Also, get a bleeder for the Master reservoir banjo to get those few stubborn bubbles out, otherwise you'll be going through a lot of brake fluid to get everything purged. You may want to buy some rubber clamps (used for cable coax I think) to secure the lines where the stock Y-fitting is to help prevent chafing.

Good luck...it's pretty easy to do.

HondaGal · 05-26-2004, 1:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brian48130

As someone who did this with no instructions...

1) Brake fluid really isn't as bad as people here are saying. I sprayed it all over metal/paint/face/hair/etc and the only problem was a small mark left by a drip I didn't clean off.

2) No joke about overtightening, I snapped two banjo bolts.

3) Make sure you know how to bleed brakes properly, I spent an hour doing it the wrong way, letting as much air get sucked in as was pushed out...

Learn from others mistakes.

I learned the hard way about brake fluid. I apparently had a drip that I didn't notice and it eventually caused my front fender to crack. The tell tale spikderweb cracking gave it away. You should never get it on your body, hair, face, whatever. Read the bottle and you'll learn why.

SuperDave · 05-26-2004, 1:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HondaGal

I learned the hard way about brake fluid. I apparently had a drip that I didn't notice and it eventually caused my front fender to crack. The tell tale spikderweb cracking gave it away. You should never get it on your body, hair, face, whatever. Read the bottle and you'll learn why.

Same here. Broke the front fender bolt area plastic. Rims are apparently more forgiving, I had a small puddle all night on the front rim with no permanent scarring.

roadrash929 · 05-26-2004, 1:42 PM

Wow all great advice thanks.. and AZ its ok to cruise stuntlife there is alot of good people there as well ... no need to stay in the closet on that one..

Nillotuc · 05-26-2004, 3:43 PM

Yeah break fluid is hydroscopic absorbing the moisture out of anything that it comes in contact with it also has a tendency to turn black paint white, something I discovered on my pops racecar when I was a bit younger.

Oh yeah btw avoid getting it in your eyes as I said it absorbs the moisture from any thing it comes in contact with, and that **** burns a lot.

1. Pump the lever and hold it
2. open bleeder
3. close the bleeder
4. release the lever
Over and, over and, over until you stop getting air out then do it a few more times just to be sure.

abtech · 05-26-2004, 5:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nillotuc

Yeah break fluid is hydroscopic absorbing the moisture out of anything that it comes in contact with it also has a tendency to turn black paint white, something I discovered on my pops racecar when I was a bit younger.

Oh yeah btw avoid getting it in your eyes as I said it absorbs the moisture from any thing it comes in contact with, and that **** burns a lot.

1. Pump the lever and hold it
2. open bleeder
3. close the bleeder
4. release the lever
Over and, over and, over until you stop getting air out then do it a few more times just to be sure.

As a member once told me: It's hygroscopic, not hydroscopic . . .

Nillotuc · 05-26-2004, 8:59 PM

Yup your right it is hygroscopic what and odd word that is .

FullForce · 05-26-2004, 9:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperDave

Same here. Broke the front fender bolt area plastic. Rims are apparently more forgiving, I had a small puddle all night on the front rim with no permanent scarring.

i have yet to see a 929 yet without the bolt area broken ... the problem is inherent with these bikes especially if you wheelie and/or take the reflectors off

BushrodW · 05-27-2004, 6:45 PM

ok. I've read this thread a number of times and will ask the question.

To set the stage, let's say one takes off what we'll call the old brake lines after carefully draining the old brake fluid. Next, one puts on the the new brake line assemblies correctly and is preparing to fill the system with fluid. At this point, the brake caliper(s) is(are) installed on the bike, have been cleaned thoroughly, and are equipped with road worthy brake pads. Good deal! This person seems to want to do things right. She understands that the master cylinder needs to be filled with fluid and that there should be no air in the fluid, as her brakes would then be highly ineffective, albeit spongy. And we all know "Spongy Brakes Baaaaaaad!" The intent is to fill the master cylinder with fluid, suck it thru the system with a Mity Vac until no bubbles appear (being vigilant so as to not let the master cylinder go dry), tighten all the speed bleeders, top off the master cylinder, rightly install the diaphragms and cap, and let the bike sit. Then she will come back and tap the lines, take off the cap, bleed off remaining bubbles with the Mity Vac, top off the master cylinder, cap it and viola! Rock hard brakes! She loves rock hard, uhhh, brakes. Yeah, that's it. And I've seen her naked a number of times!! Yeaaaah.

AnyHoo, Here's the question this person in search of the ultimate truth now asks herself before the fluid is added: Should the brake pads be positioned in the caliper(s) as they were after she last rode the bike, i.e., just touching the disc(s) or should she take the appropriate non-damaging tool and compress the pistons, thus moving the brake pads to the farthest point away from the disc(s) as is possible?

She asks this question because her brake pads are rubbing against the discs and the service manual indicates that a .030 feeler gauge should be able to slide between the disc and the pad. She doesn't seem to be able to achieve this.

Is there something in the above procedure the subject is doing wrong?

Thank you for your support and understanding.

We Love You All

We Bow To The Powers That Be

We Are Not Worthy

Bushrod Washington and The Subject

Nillotuc · 05-28-2004, 4:23 AM

Generally with any brake system the calipers are compressed to compensate for the added meat on the new pads when you pump them to bleed the they will settle where they need to be. That is if there is no binding involved.

SuperDave · 05-28-2004, 9:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FullForce

i have yet to see a 929 yet without the bolt area broken ... the problem is inherent with these bikes especially if you wheelie and/or take the reflectors off

Mine was OK before changing the lines, (can't wheelie worth a crap, I am a wussy - I admit it), the problem was a leak at the master cylinder made it's way down the line and since the Galfer line presses up against the front fender, it hopped on the edge of the fender and finally around that bolt. I saw the fluid and freaked, saw the crack, touched it, and off came the plastic piece (soaked). I learned from my mistake.

Red Rider · 05-28-2004, 12:38 PM

Usually when you remove old pads the pistons are extended outwards due to the reduced pad material. After you've removed the pads, give the lever a pump to extend the pistons out a little more so you can clean the gunk off. Then, put the old pads back on and use a bigass screwdriver to force the pads apart. This will then give you enough room to install the new pads and remount the calipers. Pump the brake lever several times and you should be good to go. As for the feeler gauge, that's for checking the clearance between the disc and the caliper, not the pads.

BushrodW · 05-28-2004, 4:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Rider

Usually when you remove old pads the pistons are extended outwards due to the reduced pad material. After you've removed the pads, give the lever a pump to extend the pistons out a little more so you can clean the gunk off. Then, put the old pads back on and use a bigass screwdriver to force the pads apart. This will then give you enough room to install the new pads and remount the calipers. Pump the brake lever several times and you should be good to go. As for the feeler gauge, that's for checking the clearance between the disc and the caliper, not the pads.

thanks RR and all who posted.

I am such a moron for misreading the feeler gauge information.

I must seek attonement by inserting white hot needles into my eardrums.

BW