Amsoil

Bacchus · 06-29-2003, 7:19 PM

OK, so I finally got enough miles on the 954 to perform another oil change. I am trying the Amsoil that I got from a forum member. I only have about 150 miles on the change, but I haven't noticed any really obvious changes, such as smoother shifting, etc. Am I being too impatient, does it take more miles and maybe another change before I notice the improvement? Never used a full synthetic before

deez · 06-29-2003, 7:22 PM

It's not a night and day difference for some people. I notice a little better shifting and the bike runs cooler. And I don't have to change the oil nearly as frequently

Bacchus · 06-29-2003, 7:44 PM

Quote:

booth23 : It's not a night and day difference for some people.

Thanks booth, that's kinda what I was thinking. Anyone else?

firedawgon929 · 06-29-2003, 7:52 PM

Quote:

booth23 : It's not a night and day difference for some people. *I notice a little better shifting and the bike runs cooler. *And I don't have to change the oil nearly as frequently

Just doing a little brain picking here. What is your 'method' for determining when you need an oil change?

And in general, if the effects are so insignificant, what's the point of paying the higher price for such little delivery?

abtech · 06-29-2003, 8:07 PM

Horsepower.

Bacchus · 06-29-2003, 8:45 PM

Quote:

abtech : Horsepower.

Elaborate, please. TIA!

RedRider · 06-29-2003, 9:02 PM

I just switched from Mobil1, which I have used for years in every internal combustion engine I have. I switched to Motul 300v Sport 10w-40 in my 929. I noticed the differnce when I first started the bike. It was quieter. Not the exhaust note, but the internals simply did not sound as busy. Second, gear shifting, which I considered 'flawless' with Mobil1, is smoother. This difference is much like the difference between the way 'gunsmithed' double-action revolver works as compared with an out-of-box unit - not dramatic. but noticeable. Finally, the 929 seems to rev better. I will keep using Mobil1 in my cars and lawnmowers, but I do not think I could ever go back in the 929 or whatever I buy next.

deez · 06-29-2003, 9:28 PM

Quote:

firedawgon929 : Quote (booth23 @ June 29 2003, 4:22pm)It's not a night and day difference for some people. *I notice a little better shifting and the bike runs cooler. *And I don't have to change the oil nearly as frequently

Just doing a little brain picking here. What is your 'method' for determining when you need an oil change?

And in general, if the effects are so insignificant, what's the point of paying the higher price for such little delivery?
The method is data. From a few years of reading metallurgical analysis. I change the oil twice a year independent of mileage. I actually know of a guy who tested oils for his career until his recent retirement from that profession. I learned a lot from him, Mike Guillory.

Synthetic oil resists wear much better than dino oil, as it can sustain much higher temperatures. So that means it's better protection for your engine, the decreased oil change intervals are just a side befefit.

If you want to do your own analysis then put synthetic in your bike. When you decide that you need an oil change from your vast knowledge, buy a test kit first. Amsoil sells them. Fill the container up with the used oil and send it in to them for analysis, they will send you a data sheet back telling you everything you need to know. Amsoil rates most of their synthetics at 20k with a conventional filter. Longer with a by-pass filter.

Baketech · 06-29-2003, 10:07 PM

Quote:

booth23 : Snipped
The method is data. *From a few years of reading metallurgical analysis. *
Snipped

I almost never post in these oil threads, but I'll pick a peanut out of this one....

What you have been reading has not been 'metalurgical' data....but rather 'triboligical' data.....big difference... *

Rigger · 06-29-2003, 10:19 PM

just because i was told this figured i would share it a geologist explained so called dino oil is actually from vegetation and not left over dino's

2OHOH2 · 06-29-2003, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Rigger : just because i was told this figured i would share it a geologist explained so called dino oil is actually from vegetation and not left over dino's

deez · 06-29-2003, 11:40 PM

Quote:

Baketech : Quote (booth23 @ June 29 2003, 8:28pm)Snipped
The method is data. *From a few years of reading metallurgical analysis. *
Snipped

I almost never post in these oil threads, but I'll pick a peanut out of this one....

What you have been reading has not been 'metalurgical' data....but rather 'triboligical' data.....big difference... *

Actually I have a few books here on the subject as well. I could send you one of them for a fee and you could read the b.s. yourself. You never know, you might learn somefin'

Bacchus · 06-29-2003, 11:43 PM

Children! *Children! *Play nice and answer my f*cking question!

Edit: Umm, please, i.e.

Keith1K · 06-29-2003, 11:58 PM

I used Amsoil 20-40 last change vibrations same, shifting same, gas mileage seems worse about 120 miles when the light comes on. I'm going to try the 10-30 next change
I wish someone carried the motul around here i would try that next.

firedawgon929 · 06-30-2003, 1:45 AM

Quote When you decide that you need an oil change from your vast knowledge ...
Don't get so sensitive ... that's why I posted this
Quote Just doing a little brain picking here

Cause I didn't flippin' know!

BushrodW · 06-30-2003, 2:23 AM

Quote:

Bacchus : Quote (abtech @ June 29 2003, 5:07pm)Horsepower.

Elaborate, please. *TIA! *
I think it has to do with super-lubricating the framus valve. That's what I was told by a waitress at Hooters. I believed anything she said for some reason...hmm.

bush

Bacchus · 06-30-2003, 2:28 AM

Ah yes, the framus valve, what was I not thinking?!

abtech · 06-30-2003, 7:09 AM

Street & Comp carries the Motul at very reasonable prices. BTW, using 20W40 oil in a modern sportbike just makes no sense at all. 5W30 in a good full synthetic will be just fine (I use the 0W30).

Baketech · 06-30-2003, 7:20 AM

Quote:

booth23 : Actually I have a few books here on the subject as well. * I could send you one of them for a fee and you could read the b.s. yourself. *You never know, you might learn somefin' *

How did you smuggle those books into Texas without being caught?
*

If you get a chance, see if one of them explains the distinction between 'Tribology' and 'Metallurgy'

Bacchus,
Here's a caveat for you to consider....not flaming, just advising you to approach them with the proper amount of healthy skepticism.

Oil Thread Composition Analysis By Content
40% Subjective 'Feel Good' Opinion
25% Third Hand - Twice Removed Anecdotal Evidence
30% Colo-Rectal Ventriliquism - aka 'Talking out one's arse'...
5% *Good Information

Skully · 06-30-2003, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Baketech : Oil Thread Composition Analysis By Content
40% Subjective 'Feel Good' Opinion
25% Third Hand - Twice Removed Anecdotal Evidence
30% Colo-Rectal Ventriliquism - aka 'Talking out one's arse'...
5% *Good Information

Bacchus · 06-30-2003, 12:24 PM

Good stuff Baketech

deez · 06-30-2003, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Baketech : Oil Thread Composition Analysis By Content
40% Subjective 'Feel Good' Opinion
25% Third Hand - Twice Removed Anecdotal Evidence
30% Colo-Rectal Ventriliquism - aka 'Talking out one's arse'...
5% *Good Information

There is real information out there that you can read. You can also test your own oil. But most choose not to do either.