OK, if you have an Owner's manual (should be under the rear seat) it'll point you in the right direction...
Otherwise (you'll have to visualise as I'm at work and don't have any images with me...) the big black nut like thing on the very top of your forks is the pre-load adjuster. If you look below on the side of it you'll see a bunch of rings scribed on it (or maybe not if it's already turned right in). The screw in the very middle of that nut is your rebound damping adjustment, and the screw at the bottom rear of the fork leg (down by the axle) is the compression adjuster.
At the rear the pre-load is that notched ring at the bottom of the spring (you adjust it with the C-spanner in your tool kit - if your bike has one...should be under the back seat, on the top of the fender). The screw thing at the top of the shock is the compression damping adjuster, and the rebound damping adjuster is at the bottom of the shock - visable through the gap under the swing-arm and above the chain...
As for setting the sag - you'll need a mate or two to help you out...one to hold the bike upright while you sit on it (in your riding gear) and another to take measurements. I manage to do it with just one helper, and I must admit not in my riding gear (can't be buggered getting all my leathers and boots on for a 10 minute job !!).
Now I know there'll be a few howls of protest from the local experts when they read my description of how to do this as I'm sure to miss something out, but as you're new I wont tell you to go and do a search (again) and will have a go at describing how I set the sag on my 929...
Front Sag - first using the kick stand as a prop, lever the front wheel of the bike up off the ground (only by a mm or two) and have a friend (wife/girlfriend/child/passer-by) measure the distance between two FIXED points on your fork leg (one up above the seal and one down below) - write that measurement down. Then stand the bike upright and gently sit on it - take the measure again - write it down, then bounce the forks up and down then sit still, take the measure again - write it down.
Now with the three figures you've got the first is the full extended length of the front suspension, add the second and third numbers together and divide by 2 to get an average - subtract this fourth number from the first number and that is your front sag...if it's around 30 - 35mm then you're in business, if it's 40mm plus then you could use a little more pre-load (wind the big black nut in by half a line and check the measurements again), if it's less than 30mm then look at winding the black nut out a half ring/line and re-check.
Basically repeat the process at the rear - I always find the rear more tricky as it's harder to find good measure points and we usually end up compromising on a luggage hook up top or something like that !.
Just remember first measure the full extent of your suspension travel, then the gap with you just sitting on the bike (no bouncing) then the gap after you've had a good old bounce.
Check the measurements, write them down (real easy to forget and then you have to do it all over again), do your calculation, then make the necessary pre-load adjustments as required...
I know you're supposed to control the suspension's return to get an accurate measure of stiction (stickiness) etc, but for the purposes of setting the sag on a bike that lives on a road most of the time where surfaces etc are so variable this is a good quick process that I've used for a few years without any great problems - give it a try
Cheers, Spanky.