Replacing injectors?

MarkN929RR · 09-04-2003, 11:04 PM

well people just want to know if there are any how to guides to replace my injectors? and a good place to get a good deal on the injectors it self? is this complicated thing to do on my own or should I pay a stealership 300 dollars to replace them? Info!?

thanks

Mark

fusion929rr · 09-04-2003, 11:09 PM

Unless an injector is shorted or clogged beyond the point of cleaning, you should not waste the $ to replace it.

2OHOH2 · 09-04-2003, 11:11 PM

Quote:

MarkN929RR : well people just want to know if there are any how to guides to replace my injectors? and a good place to get a good deal on the injectors it self? is this complicated thing to do on my own or should I pay a stealership 300 dollars to replace them? Info!?

thanks

Mark

- besides the manual, there are probably some guides on the net; it's pretty easy

- no idea, Ron Ayers maybe?

- easy, no way I'd pay the dealership $300 for the work

stegen · 09-05-2003, 4:04 AM

Do you really need to? why do you think you do?

aBnorMal · 09-05-2003, 9:36 AM

I recently replaced one. It was electrically open on its solenoid and therefore not pulsing fuel, or constantly spraying.
If you follow the manual it will have you taking the entire throttle body assembly out which is not necessary. Lift the tank, remove airbox upper, remove velocity stacks, remove airbox lower. To get the airbox lower out of the way there is a sensor to remove and 2 hoses for the pair valve, if still present, that have to come off. Let the airbox lower dangle from the htev solenoid cable, unless that's been removed too. Now you have access to the throttle bodies. Pinch the fuel hoses shut, be creative, and remove the banjo bolt fuel inlet to the fuel rail. Some fuel will flow out as the fuel rail drains. The injectors are held in place by the fuel rail. This is held in place by 3 screws. Remove the 3 screws and gently lift the fuel rail out. Remove the injector of your choice.

As to why you would want to do this. If an injector is constantly spraying or not spraying it will have the same result on the cylinder. No fire. Easy to detect. Start bike. Lick finger. Tap each exhaust header. If one is cool enough to actually touch there's no fire. To test injector follow procedure above but don't remove fuel rail. With injectors in place remove its electrical connection and test with ohm meter. Should read about 11ohms. A dead short or open is bad. Replace.

Go to Ron Ayers for part. It’s something like $80bucks. The local dealer here wanted $148.00

If more detail is needed let me know. This is all from relatively recent memory but it's known to be bad. I could sit down and draft an accurate step by step as my hands in a cast and I have nothing else to do.

MarkN929RR · 09-05-2003, 4:39 PM

well I had an error code that I had someone on this forum look up. They told me that my 3rd injector had a loose or some sort of bad connection. Now my dilema is that this happened 2 weeks ago. and now it has dissapeared. What should I do?

thanks

Mark

abtech · 09-05-2003, 9:47 PM

'What should I do?'

thank God . . .

Seeker · 09-06-2003, 11:10 PM

Quote:

MarkN929RR : well I had an error code that I had someone on this forum look up. They told me that my 3rd injector had a loose or some sort of bad connection. Now my dilema is that this happened 2 weeks ago. and now it has dissapeared. What should I do?

thanks

Mark

We've been over this before but... are you running a PC by chance?

MarkN929RR · 09-09-2003, 12:34 AM

I use to but I took it off now im running without it.