Cbr 929 won't prime no more

jmandachuva · 05-30-2007, 1:42 PM

Ok let's see if we can help others with the same problem!
My bike was running perfect, but I wanted to install and alarm system (note I said "wanted" but it never got out of the box), I had the side cowlings out and started doing the circuit tests on the wires to find out what was what in there, out of the suden my gas pump stopped priming, checked the cut off switch (FINE) the MIL light would stay on with no blinks, the FI on the display stays on as well, the engine cranks strong as always, but since there's no fuel primed, it won't start. The starter relay will click and the wires were chacked with no shorts at all. The only thing left was the (FUEL CUT OFF RELAY), bank angle sensor (which I don't think it could be faulty) and the MIGHTY SCARY ECM, I've ordered the fuel cut of relay from the ship and found out that there's no FUEL CUT OFF RELAY on the fiche. It is listed as Starter relay but still the same part and it is positioned by the ECM. It's comming on friday and I'm testing it and right after I'll give the follow up.
Does any one have or know someone who had the same problem? How was it fixed?
Thanks so much for the help, those forums are life savers for most of us, lets keep it going.

Red Rider · 05-30-2007, 2:28 PM

I'd recheck the connections on every wire you were testing. It doesn't take much to cause a fault (corrosion, disconnected wire, etc.). If the MIL light is on, but the bike won't run, check the list of possible causes here...

jmandachuva · 05-30-2007, 7:24 PM

allright! everything was checked but nothing was wrong, I called a friend who is a mechanic and he told me to try the dealership, first thing they told me was to get a new ECM (NO F*&^&* way), so with a little bit more research here, I found out that while I was checking the circuits on the wires, I energized the danm KEY SWICTH MODULE and the bike thought she was being "HOT WIRED" and quit on daddy (poor baby!), then I saw many people with the same problem while trying to install an alarm system on their precious too. The case is that we do have a DIODE in the base of the key switch and if the wires are tapped with energy it will blow and shut down the fuel pump.
Now I have this problem to solve:

How the hell do I get this thing off my bike? There are two one way bolts to get the switch off and there are 3 small (WHAT LOOKS LIKE TORX) screws on the very bottom holding the diode case. Problem is that those screws won't accept the torx driver because they have a pin right in the middle.

Has anyone ever taken this switch out? What keys do I need? what should I do?

Thanks again and wait for the follow up!

tonga3 · 05-30-2007, 7:45 PM

The torx heads with the pins are some kind of safety screws. I picked up a set of these bits years ago at a hardware store, so they are available. Sorry could'nt be more help.
Andy

khoanguyen1983 · 05-30-2007, 7:50 PM

the screws on the contact base of the ignition are the security torx type... they have a little hole in them where regular torx's dont... u can get them at autozone or an electronic store is where i got mine... i cant remember which diode you need though... i replaced mine also then found out that it wasnt it, turned out to be the ecu... so good luck on yours buddy...

jmandachuva · 05-30-2007, 10:40 PM

Hi again y'all!
Thanks for all your help.
I'm a real mess, couldn't wait for the answers and got to work, ended breaking the **** out of my switch and will probably need another one, drilled the little screws broke the damn diode case out of the switch and etc...
Well the Diode was busted. I do have some back ground in electronics and saw that we're talking about a DIODE ZENER HZU 3.9B2 so if anyone wants to take notes that is it.
I can't however just change the diode, wish I could and test it, to see if would work.
Have to order the part now and figure out how the hell I'll put it back securely in place since I drilled the f$%^ out of my base. hehehehehe.
Anyways, I really hope it works and look forward to give some good news soon.
And for my fella who wrote the post righ above this one, THANKS first for the help and sorry about your ECM, I hope mine is still good.
By the way, does anyone knows where can I get a CHEAP key switch assembly? hehehehehehehehehehe

khoanguyen1983 · 05-31-2007, 12:29 AM

you can just order the base from the dealership for about $50, give or take... but more than likely it will be a special order part... but if u need the whole ignition, then i would recommend ebay... just my 2 cents..

E_RacK · 05-31-2007, 1:28 AM

run a wire from the battery to the brown or brown/black wires in the 3-wire fuel pump harness. if the pump primes let me know by pm or something i just had the same problem n i'll guide you from there

CHAR929 · 05-31-2007, 5:30 PM

Hi my fuel pump will prime whien i hook my battery to it. I have changed the relays, but i don't hear the relay click when i turn on the ignition. All lights work but my battery reads 12.45 volts but when i turn the ignition on it reads 12.15 volts. I'm lost with this. Any replies will greatly be appreciated.

khoanguyen1983 · 05-31-2007, 7:47 PM

did you check the diode in the base of the ignition yet?

CHAR929 · 05-31-2007, 8:00 PM

How will i go about checking that? I have taken the base off and i see the diode. thanks in advance for your reply

khoanguyen1983 · 05-31-2007, 8:04 PM

its in the base of the ignition... (the little black base underneath your ignition where the wires are coming out of with the security torx screws holding it on the ignition) you can test it w/ a volt meter... oh yea, did you check all of the fuses also?

CHAR929 · 05-31-2007, 8:13 PM

Crazy question. Just how do i test it with the voltmeter? Also, fuses are okay.

khoanguyen1983 · 05-31-2007, 8:24 PM

theres a should be a diode checker on your volt meter, its the picture of an arrow with a line crossing in front of the arrow... put your leads on each end of the diode and you should get a reading one way, and when you switch the leads around, you should get an infinite reading... if it reads like that then your diode should be ok

khoanguyen1983 · 05-31-2007, 8:28 PM

if i remember correctly, there should also be four wires connected to the engine switch or the ignition, and three of them should read 12 volts and the pink one should read 9 volts... if the pink one reads 12 then somethings not right...

CHAR929 · 05-31-2007, 8:34 PM

when i touch the diodes the numbers cycle but then it stops at 0.00

khoanguyen1983 · 05-31-2007, 8:45 PM

even when you reverse the leads?

CHAR929 · 05-31-2007, 9:49 PM

cbr_df · 06-01-2007, 12:16 AM

dude dont crack your head, replace the base with a new one from the dealer, it happened to me too, sorry u had to broke the ignition, i used a dremel tool to make a slot on the bolts and cut off the round edged around the bolts so i can fit the flat screwdriver and replace the base contact and that was it.

E_RacK · 06-01-2007, 1:19 AM

have u tried another switch? also, take your switch apart and touch one end of wire to the solder point (there are 2) inside the switch for the engine cut off. then touch the other end to the black an white stripe wire in the red harness

khoanguyen1983 · 06-01-2007, 1:31 AM

replacing the base would cost $50 give or take... just replacing the diode( if the diode is the problem) would be $5...(including gas)

*zfrilly2* · 06-01-2007, 2:02 AM

It shouldn't be a diode. It should be a resistor. Resistors drop voltage which is why it reads 9 volts not 12. Diodes stop current from flowing in one direction.

*zfrilly2* · 06-01-2007, 2:05 AM

Diode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Resistor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

jmandachuva · 06-01-2007, 12:53 PM

Diodes - Tricky Fishes...

Hi Y'all !
Let's talk a bit about this matter. In a perfect world, my friend up there would be right about the use of Diodes and resistors, but we are forgeting the fact that diodes are also voltage holders, they need a certain amount of energy to start flowing it in one direction, in this case, the Zener HZU 3.9b2, opens at 3.8 and holds, between 3.8 to 4.0v. If we consider that the amount of voltage coming from the battery is NOT a precise 12v, we can do the math and see why we read around 9v on the pink wire. Can I be wrong? Maybe, but I have some good background in electronics and I'm 100% sure that we're talking about a DIODE.
I'd like to thank all of you for the replies and usefull information because doing it we are saving the CBR's world and keeping the dealerships from stealing 1000's from inocent crazy bikers.
My ignition base is coming on tuesday and I'll give another follow up, also I'll post here how to wire it in a way that you can use the remote start on a CBR 929 RR.
THANKS GUYS!

*zfrilly2* · 06-01-2007, 6:20 PM

jmandachuva Thanks for that, it hs been around 10 years since Iwent through the Navy electronics courses and I don't work with diodes and resistors very often anymore. I was trying to put a remote starter on my bike about a year ago and could never get good info from anyone on as to how the anti-theft worked. I was able to use a relay connected to a 9 volt battery connected to the pink wire to get the remote start working, but was always a little woried about having a little 9 volt battery go dead right when I need the engines power. with the zener HZU 3.9b2 in line should I now be able to drop the voltage and bypass the anti theft? Your help is of course welcomed, as I have forgotten many things I learned about electronics.

jmandachuva · 06-02-2007, 4:29 AM

Hello sir!
I'm going to try the remote starter on my this week, but what I thought would be better for me to do is, to wire a relay into the red wire and then have the ACC from the alarm activate the relay and let the current flow. I'm not going to try wiring nothting else but that, since I heard already that if ECM is not picking up a pulse from the damn diode, it could fry itself in no time. Doing this, I'll have to eliminate the key switch from turning on the electric parts of my bike and then, I'll add a parallel switch hidden somewhere to bypass the alarm just in case. I found it to be the safest way to "hotwire" it, and also to make my bike very particular against theft.
Two diodes speacially if wired in series! I don't think it would be a good idea, it could work, it could not and if doesn't you'll be down for at least 3 to 4 days without the babe and some serious bucks short.
Though I have some background in electronics, honda is a lot more advanced and they pull out some weird s&*t like this one.
I'll be messing around and post it with some pictures if possible.
By the way, RADIO SHACK DOESN'T HAVE THIS DIODE!
But just for sake of saying, if you got it down to the point where everything works but you're using a 9v battery, why dont you just by one of those transformers at walmart that get 12v into 9,6,4.5, and 3v car adapters and conect it where your 9v battery is now?
And last bu not least, can I get a "HOW TO" on your sistem? Maybe your idea is better!
Thanks for your time and help also!

*zfrilly2* · 06-02-2007, 10:49 AM

I'll try drawing a wire diagram today. It has been some time since I messed with the setup. I wanted to use resistors to drop 12v to 9 to feed the ECU but could never determine the value due to the fact I didn't know how many ampd the ECU was pulling. I haven't seen the transformers in wich you are talking about, I'll look into it. The reason I want a remote start is to be able to start the bike and let it warm up while I get dressed for work, could save me from being late, like I usually am. I have a remote start unit that is also an alarm. It has an ignition out hot and a starter wire. The ign out I ran to two relays and jumpered them together to run off the one trigger. Each relay feeds a wire in the ign switch. The starter wire is also ran to a relay and then feed the starter on command of my key fob. This all came from memory just now, I'll look later today and try making a diagram for you.

jmandachuva · 06-06-2007, 12:16 AM

OK Guys here it is!
SHE IS ALIVE! SHE IS ALIVE! Up and running, sounding healthy as always.
Damn DIODE, cost no more than $ 1.00 and almost made me buy a new ECU that would cost me $100's and wouldn't fix my problem. Too bad I had spent already $38.00 in a new starter relay thinking that was it, but I did use it in the end to hook up the alarm, the money wasn't trashed. SO PLEASE SPREAD THE FACT: If you are installing an alarm system and for some reason you hook up the acc wire and try to remote start your bike, you'll end up burning the damn diode, DO NOT FREAK OUT! it will cost you around $50.00 brand new, get also a set of safety torx screw drivers, so you don't have to break the hell out of your switch module and spend $5,00 extra bucks in J.B WELD.
IF SOME OF YOU GUYS HAVE THE BALLS TO FIND A WAY TO BY PASS THIS DIODE, PLEASE POST IT. It will be very welcome info to the rest of us.
THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE HELP AND SUPPORT!!!!!

Sincerely,
Jay Oliveira

khoanguyen1983 · 06-06-2007, 10:51 PM

congrats on it just bein the diode man and not your ecu like mine