[IRISH MIKE]

-Problem; WHen the bike gets to 126 deg. F, I hear a clunk in the bottom of the bike. Before 126 deg. the bike idles and revs just fine. After 126 it seems to be missing or starving for fuel/air...Just runs like poo.

-What Ive done to try and fix the problem; New BMC filter, new plugs. I took the air box apart looking for loose wires ect. Everything is clean and in tact. Im starting to think that it may be the exhaust valve. There is a flap in the air box that is hooked to a cable that goes to a selinoid (sp) that has two cables going to the exhaust vale. I thought that maybe the flap in the air box wasent opening when it should so I ancored it down in the open position and that didnt do the trick. Im really at a loss now. I dont know much about the exhaust valve.

A little history on the bike. 2000 929RR FireBlade from outside the US. 6400 miles. Jardine slipon. BMC filter and new plugs.

Any help would be super!

[IRISH MIKE]

Just pulled the plugs and found that the two outside are black and the two inside are clean. Cleaned them up but that didnt change anything.

[bladeracer]

I don't know what farenheits are but that sounds pretty hot - hot enough for the thermo fan to be coming on so maybe the fan is jammed or not working.
It's not a solenoid. It's a servo motor that opens the flapper and the HTEV.
Try disconnecting it (you'll get a dash light) and see if that changes the problem.
It's always worth removing the cover over the HTEV and making sure there's no gravel in there as well. If anything gets in there and jams the cables the servo gears will strip.

[IRISH MIKE]

I think normal running temp is about 176 ish so the temp isnt really a problem. What I need to know is what the flapper is and what the HTEV is. I think the flapper is the piece that is in the exhaust that opens and closes? SO maybe the HTEV is the whole piece? Sorry for the ignorance but I have always owned Yamaha's. Is there a way I can remove the HTEV or the flapper valve. I have heard of some sort of flapper mod for 954's.

[bladeracer]

The flapper is just the flap in the airbox.
The HTEV is the valve in the exhaust under the engine.
The flapper you can remove easily.
The HTEV you can replace with a straight through pipe either from Hass or fabricated yourself or you can just disconnect the servo motor and wire the HTEV open. Mine's been open for a year without being wired so it doesn't seem to move anyway.
The servo motor operates both the flapper and the HTEV.
Neither should be affected by a specific coolant temp though.

[IRISH MIKE]

Well im taking the bike to someone to have it looked at but now Im interested in these two mods. I know how to take out the flapper in the air box. As for the HTEV...if I disconnect the servo motor will the valve stay open or will it stay closed? Wont I get trouble codes on the gauge?

[bladeracer]

It has three positions and you can manually turn it wherever you want it. Normally fully open.
Yes, you will get the error code when you start up and the error light will be on all the time.
I really don't understand why that would matter to anybody though.

[2001 CBR929RR]

If you just disconnect the servo motor from the HTEV and flapper, but leave it plugged in to the harness, you won't get a red light and FI warning.

The FI and red light bothered me because I couldn't tell if there was any other code being thrown. Also, when you go to resell the bike and the FI light is on, that might scare some people who don't know about the whole HTEV thing.

Just my personal preference.

[bladeracer]

If there is more than one problem the error codes should all flash through with gaps between them.

[IRISH MIKE]

OK so disconnect the cables from the flapper and to the HTEV but leave in the servo motor. But what about the HTEV? Does it stay open or do I have to manualy open it and of so how do I do that?

[bladeracer]

Manually.
Remove the cover and turn the valve by hand.
Pointing forward is the sub-3000rpm setting. Top pipes are directed into the bottom pipes.
Pointing up is the 3000-8000rpm setting and gas flows straight through all four pipes.
Pointing down is the 8000+rpm setting. Bottom pipes are directed into the top pipes and the top pipes are directed into the bottom pipes.

[IRISH MIKE]

SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEETAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!

Thanks bother.

[IRISH MIKE]

So back to my original problem...After lots of trouble shooting and pretty much eliminating all the easy stuff. Im starting to suspect the fuel pressure regulator. When I exel, the engine smooths out. When I decel or level out the trottle, it cuts in and out. Im not sure but I belive the FPR has a diaphram (SP) and runs off of vacuum so it would make scence. ???

[Red Rider]

The fouled plugs may be due to the FPR, but I doubt if it has anything to do with the clunking sound you mentioned.

[IRISH MIKE]

Well that only happened once. Ive been trying to duplicate it with no luck (Or with luck I should say). I put a use FPR on and now when I turn the bike over, it only turns for about 1 1/2 to 2 seconds and it cuts out. All the lights on the gauge cluster go out and it wont turn back over until I cycle the ingnition switch and it does the same thing all over again. When I put the old FPR back on the bike at least turns over and fires but still runs like sh@t. I know it's possible that the used FPR could be bad but I bought it from a guy on the fourums and he tells me it's good. I'm wondering if the US FPR's differ from the UK's version.

[milemarker0]

so what is the best stting for this Htev when disconnected? Thanks

[bladeracer]

Depends on how you want to ride.
For racing at fast circuits maybe down would work best.
For tighter circuits up might be better.
For around town maybe pointing forward.
Of course, you could just leave it in and cover all those situations ;-)

[IRISH MIKE]

Any more input on the original problem?

[kristribble]

2 things- 1) remove the vacuum line from the fpr and turn on the ignition. If fuel pours out then the diaphram is busted. You can also look into the throttle bodies and typicaly the outside two tb's will have fuel pouring in through the vacuum ports. 2) have you considered that it is the enrichment circuit? It is like a choke type thing to help with cold starts. Mabey it is doing something when the motor reaches a certain temp.

[IRISH MIKE]

Originally Posted by kristribble

2 things- 1) remove the vacuum line from the fpr and turn on the ignition. If fuel pours out then the diaphram is busted. You can also look into the throttle bodies and typicaly the outside two tb's will have fuel pouring in through the vacuum ports. 2) have you considered that it is the enrichment circuit? It is like a choke type thing to help with cold starts. Mabey it is doing something when the motor reaches a certain temp.

That makes sence because some fuel stated mixing with the oil. Im about to drain the oil in a few minutes.

But that was with the new, used FPR that I put on. The fuel didnt leak when I had the original FPR on but still had the original problem.

[milemarker0]

Sorry, but what is a FPR?

[bladeracer]

Fuel Pressure Regulator.

[milemarker0]

Thanks, had a blonde moment there. Is the FPR part of the fuel pump setup, or a separate unit not in the tank?

[bladeracer]

It's on the end of the fuel rail and has a vacuum line on the end of it.

[IRISH MIKE]

I have two bad ones and a new one on order.

[milemarker0]

I did the same thing here. I got it up to Temp. and then I checked the FPR. I removed the hose, but no fuel leaked out. Could it stll be bad? It runs fine at first, or if I'm highway driving. but as soon as I let down the throttle, and it makes this funky sound, some power loss. It sounds lokes it an old 2 cylinder bike cylinder bike. Really got me puzzled. any clues out there. Bobby

[IRISH MIKE]

Sounds just like my problem. Guess I'll be the guninne pig. Mine should be in by thursday. I'll let you know.

[IRISH MIKE]

FIXED FIXED FIXED!

Turns out it was the FPR after all. Bought one new from the steeler ship, changed the plugs and oil now she runs like a raped ape! Time to sell her