[D.S]

... had two sparkplug holes threads fixed. But before I put the engine back together isnt it a good idea to remove the carbon deposits from the "roof and floor" of combustion chamber? How to do this easilly, any good solvent for this?

[LoopyLee]

According to our Haynes Manual..... A wire brush should take off the worst of it, and then you can use emery cloth, or something similar to remove the rest of it....


I'm so sorry but your thread title... I had to look twice and then burst into fits of giggles*

* Note to self... Drag mind out of the gutter occasionally

[D.S]

Aah crap. There was a third sparkplug thread that is giving up, can't believe I didnt see that.. should I consider doing a timesert myself? or should I leave it to a pro? (would take at least a week to get a time, the shop is superbooked..)

[D.S]

Originally Posted by LoopyLee

According to our Haynes Manual..... A wire brush should take off the worst of it, and then you can use emery cloth, or something similar to remove the rest of it....


I'm so sorry but your thread title... I had to look twice and then burst into fits of giggles*

* Note to self... Drag mind out of the gutter occasionally

Ahh thanks, I was unsure about using something that might scratch the surface.. but if haynes say so..

Yes I meant to make it sound a bit off topic..

[LoopyLee]

Originally Posted by D.S

Yes I meant to make it sound a bit off topic..

My mind went ever so slightly more than 'off topic'

[Jetpilot07]

wow, i was looking for porn!!!!

[bladeracer]

Originally Posted by D.S

Aah crap. There was a third sparkplug thread that is giving up, can't believe I didnt see that.. should I consider doing a timesert myself? or should I leave it to a pro? (would take at least a week to get a time, the shop is superbooked..)

I'm amazed the guy did two without checking the rest.

[Twincam]

Originally Posted by Jetpilot07

wow, i was looking for p*rn!!!!

I was looking forward to something better than just a few pictures of a few heads.

Got my hopes up for nothing.

[D.S]

Originally Posted by bladeracer

I'm amazed the guy did two without checking the rest.

Partially my fault, I came there acting like I did my homework.
I think something went very bad last time the plugs were changed. Too much torque maybe, I always feel like not doing it it properly with my hands stuck in the small space trying to turn the tool. I can turn it maybe 10 degree's at a time, hard to judge when I've done the correct number of turns when compressing the plug..

[D.S]

Originally Posted by Twincam

I was looking forward to something better than just a few pictures of a few heads.

Got my hopes up for nothing.

Sorry But I thought that's how one uploads porn on a fireblade site

[shakey1378]

you should titled it better though man. i was gonna come in here like "hey, me too!" but i usually dont share that info with the group...

i would clean it all up before assembly.

[cbr900racer77]

How many miles are on it? If it has quite a few, now would be a good time to put some new springs in it and lap valves.

[skorpia]

i put mine in the bead blaster here at work. the stuff we use is really really fine so its hard to damage the combustion chamber but works great for getting all the carbon off.

[D.S]

Originally Posted by cbr900racer77

How many miles are on it? If it has quite a few, now would be a good time to put some new springs in it and lap valves.

How much is 'quite a few', mine has around 25000 miles or 40000km. I was just thinking checking/setting valve clearances.. But I'd rather not split the engine again for at least two more seasons so maybe something to consider?

[D.S]

Originally Posted by skorpia

i put mine in the bead blaster here at work. the stuff we use is really really fine so its hard to damage the combustion chamber but works great for getting all the carbon off.

Nothing like that in my garage. How about a drill and polishing pads of some sort?

[Twincam]

I wouldnt think 25k miles would prompt me to replace the springs etc.

I would be looking for adjust the valve clearances around about 32k miles but while its all there you might as well.

[skorpia]

Originally Posted by D.S

Nothing like that in my garage. How about a drill and polishing pads of some sort?

um i wouldn't recommend it unless you have a good eye and really steady hands. your not trying to remove anything more then just carbon. if you have no access to a sandblaster, id stick to a wire brush and wd40

[cbr900racer77]

Originally Posted by Twincam

I wouldnt think 25k miles would prompt me to replace the springs etc.

I would be looking for adjust the valve clearances around about 32k miles but while its all there you might as well.

If it's been ran hard (sees redline often), I'd definitely change them, especially since it's already off the block. A set of good springs (PM) costs around 120 bucks. That's pretty cheap for peace of mind...just my .02

[MTXMUGEN]

Originally Posted by cbr900racer77

How many miles are on it? If it has quite a few, now would be a good time to put some new springs in it and lap valves.

cant forget new valve seals. there cheap and easy.

ive heard that a ammonia based window cleaner works well for removing carbon but i have never tried it

Great title BTW. little disappointing to see heads for a engine though

[MTXMUGEN]

BTW... were you using a fuel additive like Lucas upper cyl lube? the intake valves have a little sulfer built up around them...

[D.S]

Originally Posted by cbr900racer77

If it's been ran hard (sees redline often), I'd definitely change them, especially since it's already off the block. A set of good springs (PM) costs around 120 bucks. That's pretty cheap for peace of mind...just my .02

It sees redline on just a few occasions, on around 2-5 trackdays/season, and the rare wot on the road while accelerating. Other than that it's nowhere near redline. Besides I'm quite low on cash right now and will probably be doing more extensive restauration this or next winter. Right now I just want to put back all the molecules, pay for some gas and RIDE. I need the therapy. Unemployment sucks.

[D.S]

Originally Posted by MTXMUGEN

cant forget new valve seals. there cheap and easy.

ive heard that a ammonia based window cleaner works well for removing carbon but i have never tried it

Great title BTW. little disappointing to see heads for a engine though

Main reason I get the meh-attitude when contemplating messing with the valves is the special tool(s) needed and the extra week or so of perfect riding weather the bike will be standing there like a mountain of junk. Good riding weather is hard to come by in this part of the world..

Ok, I'll try ammonia, think I have some at home.

Originally Posted by MTXMUGEN

BTW... were you using a fuel additive like Lucas upper cyl lube? the intake valves have a little sulfer built up around them...

Nopes, never used additives. Can't answer for the previous owner though

[D.S]

Originally Posted by skorpia

um i wouldn't recommend it unless you have a good eye and really steady hands. your not trying to remove anything more then just carbon. if you have no access to a sandblaster, id stick to a wire brush and wd40

Will do. Should one take any special precaution doing this job on the pistons without removing them from the chamber?

[1ccwit]

Is anyone using anti-seize lubricant, NAPA item # 765-1674 on their spark plugs?? My plugs come out easy & don't bring head threads with them.
Yamaha sells a product (Ring Free) to remove carbon, cost $18.00 for 12 oz.
mix 1 oz. to 10 gal. or shock treat with 2 oz. per gal. you must change your oil & filter after a dose of this due to possible oil dilution. Boaters swear by this stuff & a couple of M/C tech's I've talked to recommend it.
1ccwit

[bladeracer]

Originally Posted by D.S

Will do. Should one take any special precaution doing this job on the pistons without removing them from the chamber?

I'd recommend just scraping off any big lumps out of the valve pockets but not brushing them too much as the carbon dust will just get down between the piston and bore where you won't be able to clean it out. For slightly cleaner pistons (that will just get dirty again anyway) you risk reducing the ring life.

[skorpia]

Originally Posted by bladeracer

I'd recommend just scraping off any big lumps out of the valve pockets but not brushing them too much as the carbon dust will just get down between the piston and bore where you won't be able to clean it out. For slightly cleaner pistons (that will just get dirty again anyway) you risk reducing the ring life.

ditto that!

[D.S]

Cheers for the heads up guys (phun intended). I had a feeling this might be a problem with cleaning the piston. This forum has literally made my hobby affordable, I'm a computer graphics nerd and I wouldn't have the confidence to do all this work myself otherwise as I always get stuck at some point even with Hondas and Haynes service manuals. Three seasons ago I'd even pay to have my oil changed! No more "did I just got raped?" leaving the stealership.. You just made a supporting member out of me..

Gonna get a huge kick out of it if she ever starts again Next challenge is camshaft refitting and setting the timing right, heard horror stories about it so I'm well prepared (famous last words?)

[Twincam]

Originally Posted by D.S

(famous last words?)

Now u've gone and done it!

[MTXMUGEN]

Originally Posted by D.S

Gonna get a huge kick out of it if she ever starts again Next challenge is camshaft refitting and setting the timing right, heard horror stories about it so I'm well prepared (famous last words?)

if you have a repair manual of some sort, follow that. set the cranl at the 1.4 firing mark, line up the intake and exhaust marks on the proper side of the sprockets. just take your time and think each thing through and you willl be fine. make sure you rotate the engine over by hand before you use the starter. if you use the wrong marks on the sprockets or the wrong timing mark your cams will be 180 degrees off and will bend ALL your valve stems before that starter motor stops turning

[D.S]

Worked with it the whole night, it took 4 more hours than I expected but I finally got it right.. I found it difficult to align the camshaft sprockets because they don't rest flat on their guides before the camshaft holders are tightened, and they kept being off by a tiny bit when tightened even if they looked right before. When I finally got them right the timing sprocket wasn't aligned anymore for some reason and it took me a while to move the chain a tooth at a time, turn the engine, move tooth, turn engine etc until it also aligned. What annoyed me was that there was no mark to check the timing without placing the clutch cover in place every time..


I did eventually screw up big time while torquing one of the outside two smaller screws of the head against the crankcase (marked on the attached pic).. I set my P.O.S. torque tool to 24nm like stated on the manual but instead of the expected "click" sound I got a "snap" sound and I think I used up all my vocabulary of profane words.. All inside screws around the cylinders torqued fine at 51nm. Don't know if it's the fault of the inaccurate tool at lower torque settings or if I shouldn't have lubed the screw thread/head. The haynes manual said to lube them so I did..

It snapped between the head and crankcase and one should be able to get it out without having to pull the head again. It's just something I won't do myself, the potential of messing up the crankcase is huge I guess.. Another less thought-out idea was to testrun the engine and hope the head will stay tight. It's the part of the engine with the camchain so maybe not so critical for the integrity of the cylinders/head gasket? I would fix it properly during off-season.