Have given this some thought...and first of all it might very well be that Bladeracer hit a point.
The friction discs might FIT alright...that is NOT to say that they are the stock thickness for an early Blade.
For the -96 vs the late -97 alone Honda specs a thickness difference of approx 0.3mm.
That stack up...as 9 discs times 0.3mm in this case turns out to almost 3mm.
Have in mind that the shim i turned in my lathe...i made 5mm thick and that makes the whole thing work as clockwork.
Now...if we presume slight differences in steel thickness too...that also stacks up..
Zee....just like you i have no issues per se with my clutch at all. Doesnīt slip or anything of the sorts. It is JUST a question of set height for the activator that works the throwoutbearing alone...which if left unaltered will have you use up all of the adjustment of the clutchwire.
Now...like in your case my clutchsprings hasnīt been left alone either. In my case though they look like the originals itīs just that they for some reason are shimmed. To use shims for a coilspring to develop any serious difference in clamping pressure...yeah well...2mm wonīt really suffice for much.
Dunno at your end but around here a popular mod to more or less any high power bike is to use the Hayabusa dittos. In short? No matter what spring really as it is within realms and gets the job done.
What iīm proposing is that there really isnīt anything wrong with our clutches...very much like what BR implies....itīs just that although our friction discs FIT...that doesnīt say they are the correct thickness,and if someone around with the OEM spec for the early blades could voice up here...that might very well be log,stock n barrel...in which case i at least advice you to turn a spacer like i did on a lathe...easy enough to do as long as the lathe is there and is all in all a to the letter 5 min job.
What i in that case CAN tell you is that if your frictions clock in at 3mm+....a total 5mm spacer between the activator and the throwout bearing WILL do the trick. Difference in force needed to work the clutch is like night n day even...it turns that much smoother.
When having your clutch apart in such a scenario it might be an idea to have an orbital sander with some 120 grit at hand. Sand each steel a minimal amount on both sides before putting it all together again. Just a word of advice.