Changing out my clutch springs - Question

CBRVFR · 04-12-2006, 11:09 AM

Baketech, GT702, or anyone else that has done this -

I opened the cover and spent about an hour removing the remains of the gasket. It looks as if there was no gasket compound used with the oem piece. Shall I just apply the new one with no compound?

When cleaning up the portions that were still attached to the engine side, how did you avoid getting little micro pieces of gasket in the clutch plates? I'm hoping that the air hose will cover a multitude of sin.

Thanks

SilverBullet · 04-12-2006, 11:14 AM

Just get some gasket stuff from the auto parts store and smear a light coat all around it. I change my clutches 3 or 4 times a year and thats all I use, same with the other bikes we work on. Never had a leak.

SilverBullet · 04-12-2006, 11:15 AM

It doesnt have to goop out when it is tightened down, plus it looks like crap if you do put that much on it.

CBRVFR · 04-12-2006, 11:30 AM

Bullet, are you saying you don't use the gasket at all?

In this case, I already bought one, and it's a VFR, so the peer-pressure's on to do things correctly, not to say anal-retentively

. There's an awful lot of pocket protectors in our little community. You just can't show up at COTU with 75 other VFR's and leak a micro - drop of oil, you'd never hear the end of it. (Though I could blame it on my Harley-Davidson heated vest, I suppose.) They barely put up with me as it is, since my viffer's not even red and I own a Suzuki. Worse, I own a CBR!!!

So, with the gasket, do you use any goop?

dB · 04-12-2006, 11:45 AM

The only correct way from the pocket protector perspective is to follow the service manual.

For paper gaskets with oil behind them, I like to use (and have seen in my service manuals) Honda Tri-Bond (or Yamaha Yama-Bond), which is a grey, non-hardening and semi-tacky goop. Use a nice thin smear on both sides of the gasket.

Be careful with RTV sealants exposed to oil. Any excess will spooge out inside the cover and eventually break off in little blobs that like to find small oil passages to block.

The only trick I have for keeping gasket schrapnel out of the clutch assembly is to cover the assembly with a rag and keep the gasket wet with oil while you're scraping it off. The oil helps to keep the scraped bits together instead of falling/flying off. And lots of air afterward as you already planned.

CBRVFR · 04-12-2006, 11:53 AM

Thanks, both of you.

ANother idea - Baketech or RAHVFR, if we ( and by we, I mean you..) could make some carbon fiber pocket protectors, we could probably pay for the trip...

SilverBullet · 04-12-2006, 1:22 PM

I dont use an oem gasket. The stuff we use is in a black can with a white tip that you push for the sealant to come out of. Its called "Right Stuuf" by Permatex. We use it on the clutch cover, stator cover, and cases. Never had a problem. Ofcourse we do use the gaskets for the head.

gt702 · 04-12-2006, 2:34 PM

Seems the trick with the stock gaskets is to make sure you wipe them with a little oil before assembly ... kind of like moistening them up. Helps keep them from sticking, and lets them swell a little to fill the little gaps. Seems to have worked best for me in the past, but try not to open VFR cases.

On a similar note. Just got a note from Marc B who bought my last 94 VFR. Said he dicided that at 80K miles it was about time to do the clutch as preventative maintenance, and when he opened it up it all looked like new. Should have kept that one instead of trying the 800; the current 750 has the cam knock issue and is set up wrong. Oh well.

Good luck.

gt702 · 04-12-2006, 2:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverBullet

I dont use an oem gasket. The stuff we use is in a black can with a white tip that you push for the sealant to come out of. Its called "Right Stuuf" by Permatex. We use it on the clutch cover, stator cover, and cases. Never had a problem. Ofcourse we do use the gaskets for the head.

Good to know. I have the cover off the XR100 and would rather not be buying more gaskets. Thanks.

dB · 05-19-2006, 11:12 AM

A little update to post #5 regarding Honda Tri-Bond and Yamaha Yamabond... These both cost about $20 for a small tube (maybe 4oz).
3-Bond 1104 is the same stuff at $6 and is available in smaller shops not associated with a particular mfr.

abtech · 05-19-2006, 5:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dB

A little update to post #5 regarding Honda Tri-Bond and Yamaha Yamabond... These both cost about $20 for a small tube (maybe 4oz).
3-Bond 1104 is the same stuff at $6 and is available in smaller shops not associated with a particular mfr.

20 bucks for Honda or Yama Bond? I pay 5.29 for either for the 4 oz tube. BTW, they aren't the same thing. The Yama Bond was designed specifically for 2 stroke bottom end assembly and dries quite a bit harder than the Honda Bond.

RAH-VFR · 05-19-2006, 5:58 PM

For paper gaskets with oil behind them, I like to use (and have seen in my service manuals) Honda Tri-Bond (or Yamaha Yama-Bond), which is a grey, non-hardening and semi-tacky goop. Use a nice thin smear on both sides of the gasket.

Ditto: I just replaced my side cover and used that method. Emphasis on the nice thin coat. I worked it on the case and the cover making sure to wet the surface. Then placed the gasket onto the locating dowels, slid on the cover and torqued the bolts.