[Black Knight]

I am having an electrical and overheating problem with my bike. Has anyone else experienced these types of problems:

• An electrical problem with my bike that also drains the battery?
• What should be the normal engine temperature of my bike? In a 5 minute short traffic jam, I should not expect my bike to overheat.
• Could there be a problem with the engine kill switch on my bike?

The history of these problems is as follows:

Date
Mileage
Description
5/12/2007
2649
While warming the bike up, the bike overheated. Coolant began to leak out. I turned off the bike immediately.

In subsequent attempts to warm up the bike, I noticed that the fan is not coming on.

5/19/2007
2649
I was able to ride the bike to the shop without heating it. The bike temperature remained under 200 degrees.

6/9/2007
2649
I picked the bike up from the Dealer Repair Shop. Replaced under warranty were:
1 - Thermostat Assy
1 – O-Ring 47.5X2 2 – Coolant
1 - Thermostat Switch
2 - Rear tail bulbs 12V 21 5W ECE REPAIR
Adjust Chain - chain was too tight

6/9/2007
2649
That afternoon, I rode for approximately 130 highway miles round trip. I noticed that the bike is probably running hotter than before. The engine temperature averaged 230 degrees on the highway. During this ride, the bike did cutoff on me a few times while shifting. However, I was able to restart each time. I am thinking that this maybe me getting used to the clutch adjustment. The clutch lever is not as tight (or requires less effort) as it used to be.

6/9/2007 – 6/30/2007
Approx. 2800
During periodic warm ups of the bike, the fan only comes on at approximately 225 degrees. I think the fan should probably come on sooner, but I’m not sure.
6/30/2007
Approx. 2900
This the first ride since 6/9/2007, and second ride since the bike was repaired.

During the first 7 miles on the road, the bike heats up to 230 degrees. This temperature is higher than it was previously on 5/19 when I was taking the bike in for service.

During a small 5 minute traffic jam, the bike heats up to 244 degrees. This is close to the temperature for when the bike will overheat. Luckily, I was able to get on the highway before it actually may have overheated.

During a 30 mile highway ride, the engine temperature stayed around 240 degrees when going 80 MPH at approximately 7000 RPM. The only way to decrease the temperature to 230 degrees is to keep the bike at 70 MPH.

After riding for about 10 additional miles, the bike cutoff on me once again while shifting, I was able to hold in the clutch and immediately it restarted.

Approximately another additional 10 miles later, the bike cutoff again. What was different about this cutoff was that it appeared that all of the electrical components had shut down. I noticed this because the clock time had reset to 1:00AM.

This time I was not able to restart it. Attempts to restart the bike sounded as if the battery was dead. I pulled the battery. Had it tested at an auto parts store, and the battery read 12.4 amps. Therefore, I do not know what the problem is.

[Ken929]

This might seem a little strange but if you step back and think about it; it starts to make sense. You have an electrical problem that is over chargeing your battery and causeing your temp. gauge to indicate higher than actual temperature. Thats why it looks like your fan didn't come on until 225. Your cooling fan and themostat are independent of the rest of the systems and are not affected, barring the off chance that the impeller (possible but not likely) is defective there is little chance that the bike is actually hitting those temperatures. My best guess (and that's all it is) is that you have a bad voltage regulator/rectifier, and it's going to get worse.

[Red Rider]

A faulty R/R won't cause the temperature gauge to read high, however VFR's are notorious for having R/R issues, and for running hot due to the V-4 configuration. The bike could overheat quickly on a hot Georgia day sitting in a traffic jam. Does the fan come on at all? If not, check the fuse and make sure nothing is caught in the fan blades. Since the bike overheated, have you refilled the coolant and made sure no air is in the system? If your R/R is cooked, you need to check the stator and should probably replace the battery, too.

I've also heard the latest VFR's have had stalling issues. What RPM is your idle set at?

You might want to check out vfrdiscussion.com for more help.

[Black Knight]

Thanks Ken 929 and Red Rider with your comments.

The bike is currently at the dealer shop, and I will recommend for them to check the impeller and voltage regulator/rectifier. The fan does come on, but only at a very high temperature around 230 degrees. Also, thanks for website referral.

Yes, the coolant was supposed to have been replaced by the dealer shop. Right now, I can't remember at what rpm it ildes at.

Another question, you guys don't think this may have something to do with the battery tender that I have been using, right? That shouldn't lead to an electrical problem?

Keep the suggestions coming. Thanks again!

[Red Rider]

If the dealer replaced the coolant, I'm betting they didn't get the air out of the system.

Battery Tender has nothing to do with the problem. I've been using BT's on my boat and bikes for years...

[Nailer45]

When "warming the bike up" once the temp reaches 130-160 you are ready to ride. dont let the bike set and run until the temp reaches 200-220 , as the fans should kick in at 207-210...
I installed a switch as where i can turn my fans off/on when i want to help the bike run cooler in town.

[thewitchdr]

First things first:

IF YO HAVE A VEHICLE & IT HAS A RADIATOR, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE CHEAP ($8 at any auto parts store) & EASY INSTALLATION (pour it in your radiator) OF A PRODUCT CALLED "WATER WETTER"!!!

ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE HAVING OVER-HEATING PROBLEMS!!

Anyone who races is most likely using it (track friendly, unlike anti-freeze).

I discovered it when I had a recurring issue with an old Honda Civic that I was tooling around Las Vegas. Everytime I stopped at a traffdic light, it was going into the red. My buddy (a racer) told me about it. I did nothing but pour this stuff in, and never saw red again.

Next thing: IF YOU OWN A VFR, YOU WILL HAVE ELECTRICAL ISSUES!
The most typical is with the r/r (regulator/rectifier).
This is the metal 'finned' part (about 3"-4" square) that, when working properly, regulates the voltage that is recharging your battery, and rectifies it, if there is too much voltage.
This unit can be easily tested (while the bike is RUNNING) by setting a multi-meter to 20 volts and touching the red lead to the positive terminal on the battery, and the black lead to any ground point (negative terminal on the battery). Anything over about 14 volts is indicative of a bad r/r (when mine went, it read anywhere from 17 - 23 volts, and all sorts of sypmtoms surfaced (ie: extremely bright lighting, blown fuses, blown lighting, super fast blinkers, eratic tach readings, and even high temp readings may be possible).
IF IGNORED, IT WILL ROACH YOUR BATTERY AND LEAVE YOU STRANDED.
Incidentally, heat is what causes them to fail. Feel yours after a ride. It's probably hot (so it's just a matter of time).

BEWARE: There are a few aftermarket companies selling replacement parts that boast "Longer Life! Better Performance! Lower Cost!".
I had one of these units in mine, and it didn't last 2 seasons.
The OEM part lasted several. I found a used OEM ($15, delivered) and replaced it. Only, this time, I also found a PC (any desk top computer) and pulled out it's cooling fan. Fortuitously enough, they are 12 volt units. The minumum purchase at the scrap yard is $1, so I also grabbed a toggle switch off of a desk-lamp, and found a decent tire for my bicycle, then paid my dollar for the 3 items. I was even able to test the 2 electrical items (on a half dead snowmobile battery) before I went all in on them.
I put the fan on top of my used r/r (with a zip-tie) and ran the appropriate wiring to 'switch' the fan. If I ever forget to turn it off, I'll figure out how to go into the ignition, so i never drain my battery again. So far, so good.


VRF ONWERS, I got the tip about the fan on VRF world!
It's just like FireBlades.com, only it's the site for us!

PS: Now, I got off very easy, $25 later, for all the things I mentioned.
But, I think that if there's a moral to this story, it is this:
If I ever see my Interceptor's temp get too high, I'm gonna pretend my cooling system is fine, for a moment, and run a simple test on my r/r.
But don't wait till your's gets hot, before doing something!
It may be too late, leave you stranded, and cost you hundreds.
(Like the FIRST time mine went!)