[FWBRC51]

i'm trying to completely gut the hub area to transfer parts to a hawk sssa. i've already removed the 46mm nut, the funky shaped washer, removed the chain adjuster bolt, and unmounted the clip near the rotor. there is no caliper mounted. I can't seem to get the part that holds the sprocket off. from my understandings of the parts breakdown and from what i read in the service manual, the part that holds the sprocket should just come off to reveal another clip so that the part that holds the rotor and rim can also be removed. did i skip a step?

[stoshmonster]

I see your post was in September,it's now December,I just joined so I'm really late on this. I don't know if you still need help,but since noone replied to your thread I can help. I had a '97VFR and own a '03VFR. I disassembled and serviced the rear hubs on both bikes. The design is exactly the same on both bikes,the sprocket carrier hub on the '97 is slightly different in shape than the '03. The bike is on the centerstand,the rear wheel is removed,the rear brake caliper is removed from the little brake stay arm and hanging freely,the pinchbolt at the back of the swingarm is completely removed(this helps),you've busted the torque and removed the locknut,washer,and flanged spacer. Correct so far? At this point the axle shaft should push through the sprocket carrier hub,but doesn't right? Here's what's happening. Two things,first the sprocket carrier hub and the axle shaft are splined. When that locknut was installed,they used a pretty healthy gob of RED LOCTITE to secure it. Some of it got down into the splines and basically glued your hub and shaft together. Second,all metals corrode to some degree,the axle shaft has to pass through two roller bearings and a needle bearing. That corrosion will offer resistance when the shaft passes through the two roller bearings. I had the EXACT same problem with both my bikes. Get a rubber mallet slightly bigger than the axle shaft,get a 3 pound shot filled plastic hammer,get a friend. Place the rubber mallet on the shaft,hit it with the plastic hammer,have your friend catch the shaft. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE THREADS ON THE AXLE SHAFT!!! Otherwise your repair gets costly in a hurry. Clean the shaft with Crocus cloth. Clean the splines on the sprocket carrier hub and axle shaft with a wire brush,CLEANY CLEAN. Test fit those two pieces before you assemble,they should slide together easily. When you assemble,a generous amount of RED LOCTITE goes on that locknut. 201 nm is the torque spec,that's approximately 140 ft/lbs of torque. Hope this helps you. Remember,you're not braking til your rear wheel's lifting,until then you're just slowing down.

[FWBRC51]

i took the entire swingarm to a local shop. he said he heated the hub area with acetelyne and used a hydraulic press to separate it, but with no luck. Of course I wasn't there, so I don't know if he's telling the truth. I took it to him as side work to be done at his work place (local honda/yam shop). I haven't given up on this project, but this obstacle has distracted me, but I will return to it after the bike is sound to run and registered. I figure why spend all that time and frustration on a swingarm if the state doesn't grant me registration rights on a salvage rebuildable title. I was told that the assembly is corroded together, but i know that with heat and pressure, this should come apart. worse case is that i buy what i need to build up the NT650 swingarm I also have. Thanks for the reply stoshmonster. I will keep the board posted as progress is made. I also have a vid on youtube about this bike rebuild process: YouTube - 1992 cbr 600 f2 rebuild

[stoshmonster]

!!! That always scares me,the FIRE WRENCH and the PARTS MANGLER!!! He should have spun the locknut on the axle shaft backwards,so the flat side of the nut faced up. With the nut face flush with the top of the axle shaft,he should've jigged up your swingarm in the press,got a piece of roundstock the same size as the locknut and pressed it COLD! With the locknut on,he could've only pressed it just a little bit,but it would've been enough to break the parts free. It shouldn't have required much more than that. If he heated your sprocket carrier hub and axle shaft TOO much,and then pressed it,the metal on both parts expanded from the heat,and the pressure from the press could've expanded them even further,possibly mushrooming them. They may be siezed worse now than when you started. As a rule of thumb,the FIRE WRENCH should only be used as a last resort,and then only sparingly. Watched your video,Good Luck with that. Hope this doesn't put a damper on your project. Remember,you're not braking til your rear wheel's lifting,until then you're just slowing down.