Paul,I've got an '03, 6th gen. VFR just like yours. Unless Honda changed the shape of the instrument binnacle subframe on your '05,you should have easy access to the back of the lower headlight bulbs. I swapped the stock 55/60watt bulbs for 80/100watt bulbs,and had no access problems at all. They remove exactly the way Muddysteel described. You have to remove the side panel,and little winglet panel by the dash to swap out the upper bulbs though. If the oil cooler is in the way,there's one bolt behind the cooler on either side of it that secures it to the subframe. Drop the oil cooler down out of your way. Put a soft towel over your front fender first. BTW, I'm with you on that stupid P.I.T.A. side panel/oil change deal. Hope this helps you. Remember,you're not braking til your rear wheel's lifting,until then you're just slowing down.
