[vfrbart]

Heres the deal....I tried a starter valve sync with no luck....I proceeded to mess it up real good.Now my bike Idles really high [ 2500rpm] and pops real bad until it gets to 3000 rpm and popping goes away. Anyone have any suggestions to fix this problem ? I have tried to hook up a Manometer to it but cant use it because starter valve # 1 pulls so much I do not have time for adjustments. I have asked for help on another forum but got no help. I cannot afford to take it to a shop so I am looking for some help.

thanks,
bart

[timstoys01]

hello, without knowing which bike i can give generalities. poping below advance curve usually means a rich condition the engine fighting its self to clear out as it does when the advance curve is reached with rpm.rich on bottom lean on top,epa specs again. or it can be so lean and harsh and usually hot that any spare fuel pops in intake manifold. check plug color the eyeball of the engine, at idle then at speed. at speed to check you will need to run the bike till you know your on the main jet, 60 to 80 mph. now pull in the clutch and kill motor with kill switch, coast to side of road and pull spark plug to determine fuel mixture. out of sync carbs uaually pops coming off idle. tim

[vfrbart]

sorry about not enough info.....It is a 2000 VFR ca. edition.
And the bike ran just fine before I tried to do a starter valve sync.
I just started turning the screws in no particular order.I ended up with a mess. I just cant seem to find a happy medium here. I dont know if the wax idle unit would make any of these symptoms appear, but I can replace it if necessary. If there were some way to put it back to factory specs I could deal with it but I cant afford to take it to a shop.I have asked if anyone with a 5th gen vfr could help me out by counting the number of clicks it takes to turn their valves all the way in. At least one would be a start for me.
I know it takes a few minutes of time but I need help.