[showmethebombs]

I am going to be doing front and rear. Any tips before I do it?

[mmeacham]

Braided Steel!
http://www.kyleusa.com/catalog/braid...0_products.htm
When you blead um, don't panick. It takes forever.

[Chain]

Drain all the fluid, pull the bleeder nipples, dab some wheel bearing grease on the threads, reinsert. That will keep you from pulling air when you're trying to bleed the lines. My own home-brew remedy and it works like a champ.

Then do what everyone else will tell ya to do relative to the steps involved. Or search.

[HondaGalToo]

Cover everything up with old towels in case some fluid spills, as it always does!

[showmethebombs]

Thanks! I remember hearing that brake fluid will take paint off pretty fast! That's my major fear....well other than air bubbles.

[TGZ13]

Originally Posted by showmethebombs

Thanks! I remember hearing that brake fluid will take paint off pretty fast! That's my major fear....well other than air bubbles.

Easily is an understatement. Basically if it hits the paint its already to late. As is why I have a Master cylinder that has silver spots (at least its only there thanks to rags everywhere)

[showmethebombs]

Originally Posted by TGZ13

Easily is an understatement. Basically if it hits the paint its already to late. As is why I have a Master cylinder that has silver spots (at least its only there thanks to rags everywhere)

thank goodness my Master is plastic!

[showmethebombs]

these look any good?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

[2OHOH2]

Originally Posted by showmethebombs

these look any good?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Hmm, they do look good, but I'd be very wary about putting my life in the hands of some unknown mechanic/assembly drone. Bottom line, I wouldn't buy those, sorry. Like the Michelin ad says, "Because there's so much riding on your [brake lines]."

[roadracer319]

After you drain all the fluid, slip a sandwich bag over the banjo fitting and tie wrap it in place. This will prevent any residual fluid from leaking out when you pull the lines off the bike. Keeps everthing nice and clean.

[TGZ13]

check out hard racing. I know my buddy got them from there for a crazy price

edit: Hard Racing SS lines

[2OHOH2]

Originally Posted by TGZ13

check out hard racing. I know my buddy got them from there for a crazy price

edit: Hard Racing SS lines

Yeah, I'd say that paying $20 extra for a proven product vs. mystery meat from Taiwan is the better choice.

[TGZ13]

Originally Posted by 2OHOH2

Yeah, I'd say that paying $20 extra for a proven product vs. mystery meat from Taiwan is the better choice.

No sense of adventure

When it comes to certain things the extra $20 won't kill you (no pun intended)

[SomeStrangeGuy]

Originally Posted by showmethebombs

I am going to be doing front and rear. Any tips before I do it?

I'm on board with that towels thing as well. Though don't use white towels cause you can't see if it drops anywhere and thus it soaks through. But brake fluid IS good if you want to make your paintjob look like some militia camo. deal

Mityvac / one man brake bleeder kit- got one?
I just did my truck and KLR lines this method and it rocked and was quite fast. I just make sure the reservoir is full and mityvac the fluid down the lines for speed (eyeball the MC the whole time as it will empty quick w/new lines). Once lines are topped off, compress the lever, build pressure and bleed as you regularly would till most of the bubbles go away, mityvac a good 1/2 cup or more of fluid out of the lines until the bubbles go away.

i also left my lever safetywired as tight to the bar as you can get it for a few hours with the bike on stands.

Not sure where a banjo bleeder would fit into all of this though, I suspect you would bleed to that point first and last?

[Johnny Diablo]

Originally Posted by Chain

Drain all the fluid, pull the bleeder nipples, dab some wheel bearing grease on the threads, reinsert. That will keep you from pulling air when you're trying to bleed the lines. My own home-brew remedy and it works like a champ.

Then do what everyone else will tell ya to do relative to the steps involved. Or search.

Petrol based grease and contact with the internals of your brake system are a big

I found Girling or Lockheed Rubber grease is okish. Not just everyday stuff though...mostly used in rebuilding brake calipers.

[NinerPilot]

If you dont have the lines yet, get Galfer Superbike lines. They are designed to eliminate the joint on the caliper end and look trick as ****!
Chris

[Chain]

Originally Posted by Tombstone

Petrol based grease and contact with the internals of your brake system are a big

You only use a tiny amount, enough to "seal" the threads as you would a dab of pipe dope on a plumbing fitting. No big deal, works well and I've had the grand total of zero problems with this remedy on the last two bikes I've done lines on.

FWIW

[showmethebombs]

Originally Posted by NinerPilot

If you dont have the lines yet, get Galfer Superbike lines. They are designed to eliminate the joint on the caliper end and look trick as ****!
Chris

Like these? they do look sweet!

http://www.calsportbike.com/cgi-bin/...id=567&count=1

[2OHOH2]

Originally Posted by showmethebombs

Like these? they do look sweet!

http://www.calsportbike.com/cgi-bin/...id=567&count=1

Yep, that'd be them

[showmethebombs]

probably that is what I will buy. Now I am freaked out about it...is it easy to mess these up? I have never done a set before.

[TGZ13]

Originally Posted by showmethebombs

probably that is what I will buy. Now I am freaked out about it...is it easy to mess these up? I have never done a set before.

I hadn't till I did my buddies f4i but it is real easy.

Rags everywhere
Drain all fluid
Carefully loosen ends (we used string to make sure we re-routed them the same way)
A little grease on the bleeder valve (per chain)
Reconnect
Fill
Bleed

Ride

[BDA116]

It's nearly impossible to mess them up. They really only go on one way.
Only thing to remember is the shorter line goes to the right caliper, the longer one to the left. On the master cylinder end, put the line to the right caliper on first, then the line to the left. Also, only put one crush washer between the two lines at the master cylinder.
I've never removed all the fluid before changing lines. It's a bit messier, but it is easier to then bleed the fluid when you're done.

[2OHOH2]

Originally Posted by showmethebombs

probably that is what I will buy. Now I am freaked out about it...is it easy to mess these up? I have never done a set before.

What, to mess up lines? Nah, not really. There's plenty of info in this thread to get you through it. Little more than patience and a supply of brake fluid are needed to get this done.

[fl-929]

Originally Posted by showmethebombs

I am going to be doing front and rear. Any tips before I do it?

Mmmm, skip the rear?

[TGZ13]

Originally Posted by fl-929

Mmmm, skip the rear?

Rear isn't need at all but it looks better with the SS line IMO

[Rike]

Give Slava @ www.flatoutmotorcycles.com a shot if you are buying superbike lines.

I just got a set of superbike lines from him for $90 shipped

Rike