[texasixes]

Well, it's comming up on a year now w/ my sp1. Is there anything I should try to get done as in re-mapping. and does the map go "out of whack" and even need to be redone?

[Rigor]

Originally Posted by texasixes

Well, it's comming up on a year now w/ my sp1. Is there anything I should try to get done as in re-mapping. and does the map go "out of whack" and even need to be redone?

MAP never changes. It's a computer data input. If your mileage is in the neighborhood, a new set of plugs and airfilters might be in order. Outside of that, and other normal service, ride....

[texasixes]

I've only put 'round 5500 miles on a 30k mi. bike. Will change plugs and filters,

AND RIDE SOME MORE!!!!!

thanks.

[Rigor]

Originally Posted by texasixes

I've only put 'round 5500 miles on a 30k mi. bike. Will change plugs and filters,

AND RIDE SOME MORE!!!!!

thanks.

At 32k, Honda recommends changing your coolant if it hasn't been done before and of course, check and adjust the valves, as well. Might want to consider swapping out the brake and clutch fluid as well. I do mine yearly. I forgot that little ditty....

I wasn't aware you had that many miles racked up.

[texasixes]

Well the first 25k were put on by the previous owner. He kept it bone stock and kept the maintainance up on it beyond what is called for.
I did the P.A.I.R. valve removal, flapper mod, tweeked the filters, put yoshimira s/s full system, pc3 usb, changed the oil and filter... all in the first 3 or 4 months. It is time for new oil and I think I'm going w/ rotela and for spark plugs I got
NGK FR9BI-11. I'm hunting a good price for air filters (Ron Ayers is winning so far, let me know If you know of cheaper OEM ones) As far as clutch, brake fluid and coolant, is that something I should try an tackle on my own OR take to let the stealership do it while they have it in for inspection.

Thanks for all your input and advice,

Robert

[Rigor]

Originally Posted by texasixes

Well the first 25k were put on by the previous owner. He kept it bone stock and kept the maintainance up on it beyond what is called for.
I did the P.A.I.R. valve removal, flapper mod, tweeked the filters, put yoshimira s/s full system, pc3 usb, changed the oil and filter... all in the first 3 or 4 months. It is time for new oil and I think I'm going w/ rotela and for spark plugs I got
NGK FR9BI-11. I'm hunting a good price for air filters (Ron Ayers is winning so far, let me know If you know of cheaper OEM ones) As far as clutch, brake fluid and coolant, is that something I should try an tackle on my own OR take to let the stealership do it while they have it in for inspection.

Thanks for all your input and advice,

Robert

I'd think that if you were capable of removing the PAIR system by yourself, flushing your brake fluid would be easy enough. Put a small length of clear rubber hose on your front bleeder. (one at a time) and crack the bleeder open and pump the fluid out into an old coffee can, or something. Do not pump the reservoir dry.

Once you get the fluid level down 3/4 of the way, refill it. Do it again. Keep doing it till the fluid coming out of the bleeder is clear and new. Just make sure NOT to let the reservoir go dry. If you do, you'll introduce air into the system and have to start all over again. Now do the other front bleeder.

Do the same thing with the clutch, and rear brake. The clutch is trickier, cause the reservoir is so small. I suggest taking your windscreen OFF, as brake fluid will screw it up, and will screw up paint if you get it on any. Keep the lids on the reservoirs when pumping the levers. Use DOT-4 brake fluid. Take your time.



Coolant is a little trickier.

After removing your side panels, you can undo the small, lowest hose on the waterpump. (right side) Take the rad cap off and let it drain.

It'll drain from both the metal fitting the hose came off of AND the hose for a while, then just the metal fitting. The hose goes up and over the motor. It elevated higher then the water pump.

I used a little compressed air and probably got another 1-2 quarts of fluid out by doing that. You don't have to though.

Refilled the system with distilled water, ($0.79 a gallon at the grocery store.) and run the bike for about 1-2 minutes to circulate the fluid a little, getting some of the left side antifreeze out.

I flushed the system 2 times that way, before draining the same way and refilling with Eingine Ice, or you can use new antifreeze and distilled water. DO NOT USE TAP WATER.

The reservoir bottle I changed out by using a suction device to empty it, and refill with EI. You might have to drop that to empty it if you don't have a way to get the antifreeze out.

After filling the system and running the bike a little, I blipped the throttle a few times with the cap off. You can see the bubbles coming up out of the system, and the level drop a little each time. Restore with more fluid, and continue until the system starts to warm up and push fluid out of the radiator opening.

When that happens, put the cap on and let the bike warm up. As it does, the thermostat will open at about 165-170 and you'll see a small drop in the fluid level in the radiator. You'll not the antifreeze is HOT now...

Take the cap off again and restore the level. (Be careful, as there may be a little pressure)

Don't forget to restore the level in your overflow (reservoir) bottle.

It's not difficult.