[Chal De Cecco]

Setting up my new to me 02. Questionable set up by previous owner. M1 Metzlers off, Michelin Pilot Powers going on. Rear stock suspension was set at notch 6 for spring preload and gas remote / shock set right between soft/hard markings.
Front stock suspension set pretty much the same way for rebound but need help with compression settings. Bike is being set up for Canyon carving and speed sport riding , no track days planned. I usually ride with suspension to the hard side of the scale. I'm 190 pounds with gear. Any suggestions appreciated.........just standing still this is one cool bike.

[Rider]

My theory goes like this.

Assuming you can not alter the springs strengh, only preload, you start with the preload settings to set a good starting sag. Then I would say you can sacrifice a bit on the recommended sag setting to alter the bikes geometry more to your liking.

Compression needs to be soft. As soft as possible not to allow the suspension to bottom out. If springs were strong enough, no compression damping would be required, try to remember this and you will end up with a nicely set up compression damping. Both comfy and stable. Also remember your throtle is also your realtime compression damping adjuster. The more throtle the more compression damping the bike, especially the rear, appears to have...

Rebound. That is a difficult one to call. Basically again start light and go harder one at a time until feels it stable. Not planted to the road but stable.

If you go too hard on either of the of the damping settings the bike will slide around. It will feel stable but slide. If too soft the bike will wallow(ship like)...

Sometimes if springs are too soft, you might end up giving extra preload to achieve good rider sag, and then you need extra rebound damping to avoid botomming up(maxing up) the suspension... That a better compromise than a very large rider sag that will leave almost no suspension travel... Remember if the suspension bottoms down and/or up, thats an instand slide...

Suspension need to be able to work. Not locked solid by damping.

enjoy.

[aussie-sp1]

gday mate. Check this thread later in the day and i will give you my settings which were recently done for me. It gave me alot more corner speed and stability and comfort. I am the same weight as you so you should reap the same results.

[jonathan]

Originally Posted by aussie-sp1

gday mate. Check this thread later in the day and i will give you my settings which were recently done for me. It gave me alot more corner speed and stability and comfort. I am the same weight as you so you should reap the same results.

To my best recolection SP-1 and SP-2 main diffrances are the suspenssion (a lot less firm front and rear) and changes in wheel base (rear swing arm) and some changes in the wheels themselves (lighter wheels) - affecting the suspension settings all together.

[jonathan]

Can any one comment on the combination of tires and turn in capability.

I have a hard time making the bike turn in.

My previous bike was a ZX6 99 model and though the SP is light years better as far as stability goes the turn in issue makes me miss the apex time and again.

Any one can recomend a fast turn in setup and maybe some fast turn in tires?

Thanks.

[Beattie_Yo]

front tire weight has effect on rotational mass, selecting the lightest weight front tire will help, which requires a lil exploration of diff tires an manufacturers

[jonathan]

Originally Posted by Beattie_Yo

front tire weight has effect on rotational mass, selecting the lightest weight front tire will help, which requires a lil exploration of diff tires an manufacturers

Thanks,
Over the years I learned that tire turn in has much more to it than simple rotational non sprung mass.
Tire constructions can make tires behave very diffrently from one another. other than expected.

Also I am very intreseted in the wisdom of the forum with actual expiriance, for example Metzlers Rensport my current (soon to previous) rubber is more on the stable side.
Too much if you ask me.
Power Pilots (PP) are much better as far as agilety goes but I don't have any expirance with them on the RC, same goes for D209.

Also - a more stable geometry will go well with a fast hadling tire and vice versa.

[slickwill]

Lowering the front a couple mm's or raising the rear ride height if you have an adjustable shock will help give quicker turn in.

[aussie-sp1]

Just try these settings as a guide. They came from an SP2 rider and worked perfectly on my SP1, I intended to use it as a guide but ended up sticking with it, so my assumption is that they should suit you better. Screw the front forks down to the 7th ring, then turn the tension up 1 notch past (H), then go down the fork and wind the compression up 4 clicks from dead soft. The Rear spring preload is wound upwards 2 steps from the base, and 5 clicks for the compression. I used to have it set up on the hard side, almost like a roller coaster, but softening it up made a world of difference in overall speed through every twist and bend. I'm not a track rider at all, but I love canyon chasing. Give it a try, it sounds like its the opposite of what you got now, it may be what your looking for. Good luck.

[racer46]

Go to this link....it's a good place to start!!

Then there is a place on that same site where you can pull up your model machine and get their recommended setting and start from there.

Motorcycle Suspension Setup - Sport Rider

[racer46]

Here is the guide...

Sport Bike Motorcycle Suspension Settings - Sportbike Review - Sport Rider

[Beattie_Yo]

Front Preload: 4 turns out

Front Rebound Damping: 2 turns out

Front Comp. Damping: 8 clicks out

Rear Preload: position 5 of 8

Rear Rebound Damping: 1 turn out

Rear Comp. Damping: 6 clicks out


do the mean from full hard?

[slickwill]

do the mean from full hard?

Generally numbers for compression and rebound are always given as a number out from full hard. Tighten down until it stops then unwind the prescribed number of turns.