[honorcode3]

1st

Cold starting the RC51
The manual says to cold start the RC51 with the choke all the way out unless outside temp. is like 95F or above. For my bike, it needs to have the choke out if below 95 or else it will not start. Is that normal?

2nd

It is about 60 degrees F outside and with the choke pulled out, it takes a few times to get the bike started and running. After the bike starts and runs with the choke out for like 30 seconds, it runs just fine and holds idle after pushing the choke in. Is this normal?

3rd

I shift at around 2.5-3k rpm because below that, that the bike lugs a little bit (can feel the engine not delivering power super smoothly). Is this about right and where everyone else shifts for a minimum rpm shift?

I know these are probably really noobie questions and probably normal habits of the bike, but I didn't find anything with a quick search so I decided to be anal and ask just to make sure.

Thanks everyone, you rock!

[gsxrfxr]

how many miles on her?
when was the last time it had a tune up?

[WyoJames]

Just out of curiosity...why are you shifting as low as 2.5-3k? You are shifting before you even get into the bikes power

[sheepofblue]

I would try to keep it above about 4K in general and shift anywhere from 6-9K depending on what I am doing.

I never use my choke as I was told you are more likely to foul rear plugs (don't know how true it is) but I live in a warm climate and it is a track bike so I just feather it in the morning until it is about 140 or higher then it cranks off fine the rest of the day. So I don't the choke much but the 30 second warm up sounds reasonable

[honorcode3]

Originally Posted by gsxrfxr

how many miles on her?
when was the last time it had a tune up?

About 20k miles and I just had a tune up less than a month ago.

I should also note that I picked this bike up fairly recently so I'm unfamiliar with all it's quirks.

[honorcode3]

Originally Posted by WyoJames

Just out of curiosity...why are you shifting as low as 2.5-3k? You are shifting before you even get into the bikes power

For short commutes where the speed limit is about 30 mph the whole way. I usually just keep it in second, but I would probably be in first the whole time keeping it in the 4k to 9k rpm range.

Originally Posted by sheepofblue

I would try to keep it above about 4K in general and shift anywhere from 6-9K depending on what I am doing.

I never use my choke as I was told you are more likely to foul rear plugs (don't know how true it is) but I live in a warm climate and it is a track bike so I just feather it in the morning until it is about 140 or higher then it cranks off fine the rest of the day. So I don't the choke much but the 30 second warm up sounds reasonable

Thanks, this is good information. I wonder how true using the choke fouls the plugs is? I'll try to research this because I think I've heard it before.


No one has commented about having to try to start it a few times when it is cold outside, is that normal? Or does every ones RC just fire up the first try no matter how cold?

[SubSailor]

I live in FL where it's upper 80's to mid 90's all summer.
I use the "choke" (actually a fast idle) every time I start the bike cold.
As the oil is circulated and warms up, then engine begins increasing in revs.
I then feather the choke to bring the engine revs down to around 1500 RPM.
When the engine temp gets to around 100 deg F, I then close the choke and allow the engine to idle at it's rate idle speed of 1300 until it gets to 150 to 160 Deg F.
I've never had fouled plugs, period. Actually they are a nice tan.

As for shifting at 2500-3000 RPM, these are performance V-twins, not Harleys.
In street traffic, I use anywhere from 3500 to 6000 RPM, and more out in the country.
These bikes don't much like running below 3500 RPM.
They're hot rods, not tractors.

[honorcode3]

Originally Posted by SubSailor

I live in FL where it's upper 80's to mid 90's all summer.
I use the "choke" (actually a fast idle) every time I start the bike cold.
As the oil is circulated and warms up, then engine begins increasing in revs.
I then feather the choke to bring the engine revs down to around 1500 RPM.
When the engine temp gets to around 100 deg F, I then close the choke and allow the engine to idle at it's rate idle speed of 1300 until it gets to 150 to 160 Deg F.
I've never had fouled plugs, period. Actually they are a nice tan.

As for shifting at 2500-3000 RPM, these are performance V-twins, not Harleys.
In street traffic, I use anywhere from 3500 to 6000 RPM, and more out in the country.
These bikes don't much like running below 3500 RPM.
They're hot rods, not tractors.

Good info, at least we now know that the fast idle/choke won't foul the plugs when used correctly.

I'm surprised no one has commented on the issue of it taking more than one try to start it up on a cold day. Does anyone have to press the engine start button a couple of times when it is cold outside to get their RC going?

[WyoJames]

Originally Posted by honorcode3

For short commutes where the speed limit is about 30 mph the whole way. I usually just keep it in second, but I would probably be in first the whole time keeping it in the 4k to 9k rpm range.

Just remember that these are high performance engines and are made to run high rpms...it's not like a car were you cruise around at low rpms...also, constantly riding at those low rpms is going to eventually drain your battery because these bikes only charge the battery at higher rpms

[SubSailor]

Originally Posted by WyoJames

Just remember that these are high performance engines and are made to run high rpms...it's not like a car were you cruise around at low rpms...also, constantly riding at those low rpms is going to eventually drain your battery because these bikes only charge the battery at higher rpms

That's another good point.
Full rated alternator output is at 4500 RPM, so if you're chugging along for quite a while, you may discharge your battery.
Especially if you also run your high beam during the day.
That draws a lot of current and will discharge your battery quicker.

[honorcode3]

Originally Posted by SubSailor

That's another good point.
Full rated alternator output is at 4500 RPM, so if you're chugging along for quite a while, you may discharge your battery.
Especially if you also run your high beam during the day.
That draws a lot of current and will discharge your battery quicker.

That's good to know. When does the alternator kick in?

I know the speed limit on some highways around here (Austin) are only 60mph and in 6th gear I'm at 60mph and only 3k rpm.

I guess if I make long highway rides at 3k rpm's I will be running down my battery huh? Unless the alternator kicks in before then?

[sheepofblue]

Originally Posted by honorcode3

That's good to know. When does the alternator kick in?

I know the speed limit on some highways around here (Austin) are only 60mph and in 6th gear I'm at 60mph and only 3k rpm.

I guess if I make long highway rides at 3k rpm's I will be running down my battery huh? Unless the alternator kicks in before then?

Just keep it in 5th. The stock gearing on an RC is stupid tall (as is 1st gear). When I first got mine I put a couple of hundred street miles on it and remember being on the interstate in 5th or even 4th. If you keep it above 4K you will find the performance and throttle response is GREATLY increased.

[zerogara]

Just watch your high rpm coming into corners and abruptly letting off the throttle, those 100mm (PISTONS THAT WAS MEANT TO BE)act as brakes and they have no clue what ABS stands for. But this bike is all about throttle response, it is the throttle response king. Learn gently and it will reward you. Undermine it and it will send you flying up a tree!

Correction added in bold

[Twincam]

Originally Posted by SubSailor

That's another good point.
Full rated alternator output is at 4500 RPM, so if you're chugging along for quite a while, you may discharge your battery.
Especially if you also run your high beam during the day.
That draws a lot of current and will discharge your battery quicker.

Your alternator will be operating even at idle so riding around at 4500RPM shouldn't be a problem.

What is actually happening when you try and start her from cold? Are you using the choke at all? On the Hornet there is a "choke" which I would pull out all the way, start and then push her half way back in almost immediatly, and the final bit once I'm riding (i'd allow for her to warm up a bit and for the oil to come up before I go out. Then for the next few miles allow the engine to warm up throughly before giving her too much)

[Twincam]

Originally Posted by zerogara

Just watch your high rpm coming into corners and abruptly letting off the throttle, those 100mm act as brakes and they have no clue what ABS stands for. But this bike is all about throttle response, it is the throttle response king. Learn gently and it will reward you. Undermine it and it will send you flying up a tree!

[honorcode3]

Originally Posted by sheepofblue

Just keep it in 5th. The stock gearing on an RC is stupid tall (as is 1st gear). When I first got mine I put a couple of hundred street miles on it and remember being on the interstate in 5th or even 4th. If you keep it above 4K you will find the performance and throttle response is GREATLY increased.

I'm less worried about the performance as I am about the battery dying. I have no source of electricity right now (live in a dorm room ) so if the batter dies I'm kind of out of luck.

Originally Posted by Twincam

Your alternator will be operating even at idle so riding around at 4500RPM shouldn't be a problem.

What is actually happening when you try and start her from cold? Are you using the choke at all? On the Hornet there is a "choke" which I would pull out all the way, start and then push her half way back in almost immediatly, and the final bit once I'm riding (i'd allow for her to warm up a bit and for the oil to come up before I go out. Then for the next few miles allow the engine to warm up throughly before giving her too much)

So I guess the alternator is always running, just not enough to keep the battery charged unless your running the bike at 4k rpm?

When I start her from cold I pull the choke all the way out. I was trying to figure out if there is a problem because when it gets colder outside (60 degrees or so) I have to press the start button a couple times to hold idle. Steps: key in ignition in on position, pull choke all the way out, switch on pump/bike power switch (not really sure what this is called), then push the engine start button. Engine starts but doesn't hold idle and immediately dies. I hit the engine start button a couple more times and this happens till the engine starts and holds idle. I then let it idle with the choke/fast idle out all the way for half a minute or so then push in the choke and it holds idle perfectly at 1300 rpm. When warm (after riding) I don't use the choke and it fires up and holds idle no problem.

I just need to know if this is normal and happens for everyone on colder days or if I need to get the bike checked out. I'm afraid if it gets really cold the bike won't start for me.

[HRC RC51]

you might have try to start it a couple it a times depending on air temp (cooler temps harder to start) and depending on where the cylinders stopped last. it takes a good about to get these pistons going.

My bikes do this from time to time (03 RC51 04 Aprilia Factory and 01 Aprilia Falco) all 1000cc twins.....heaven help you if your battery dies and you try to bump start (pop clutch).

I hope you are keeping it in a safe place and locked since you are in the dorms.

[honorcode3]

Originally Posted by HRC RC51

you might have try to start it a couple it a times depending on air temp (cooler temps harder to start) and depending on where the cylinders stopped last. it takes a good about to get these pistons going.

My bikes do this from time to time (03 RC51 04 Aprilia Factory and 01 Aprilia Falco) all 1000cc twins.....heaven help you if your battery dies and you try to bump start (pop clutch).

I hope you are keeping it in a safe place and locked since you are in the dorms.

Yeah, definitely man, right outside about 100ft away and locked. I just talked to a RC51 owner/motorcycle shop owner and he told me it was common as well. I rode it the other day and kept the revs high so the battery is good. *sigh of relief* life is good and now it's time to celebrate with a midnight ride!

Cheers!

[zerogara]

Get yourself a trickle charger or a small charger and a timed switch.
Take the battery off to the dorm (sealed, no fumes, nothing to worry about) and give it a good initial charge then leave it for like 10-15hrs with the timed switch to charge for 15' turn off 15'. That is how you get your best charge, slow and intermittent. If battery is getting warm is not charging well or appears to have charged but may not.
After that unless there is a problem with the bike you will not have many issues. If the battery is discharged even a long ride will not bring it back right and you will keep running into problems.
Also, if you are suspecting a low charge pull the plug (easy) from the left side headlight and unless mandatory in your state to run with lights on, run without it for a while. It will start easier and not draw as much from generator/rectif./regulator! If you have ever kicked started a large single thumper without a decompression release you know how hard it is to start two of them at the same time. On a 4 when one cylinder is resisting the other is helping always. He it is more like 2 singles starting.
It is normal when it goes between the 270' phase of the cranking to feel like the starter is about to die.

[Twincam]

Nope, the battery should be charging (although not as much as it would be when it would be reving at 4k as the "alternator/stator" wouldn't be spinning as fast.

[honorcode3]

Originally Posted by zerogara

Get yourself a trickle charger or a small charger and a timed switch.
Take the battery off to the dorm (sealed, no fumes, nothing to worry about) and give it a good initial charge then leave it for like 10-15hrs with the timed switch to charge for 15' turn off 15'. That is how you get your best charge, slow and intermittent. If battery is getting warm is not charging well or appears to have charged but may not.
After that unless there is a problem with the bike you will not have many issues. If the battery is discharged even a long ride will not bring it back right and you will keep running into problems.
Also, if you are suspecting a low charge pull the plug (easy) from the left side headlight and unless mandatory in your state to run with lights on, run without it for a while. It will start easier and not draw as much from generator/rectif./regulator! If you have ever kicked started a large single thumper without a decompression release you know how hard it is to start two of them at the same time. On a 4 when one cylinder is resisting the other is helping always. He it is more like 2 singles starting.
It is normal when it goes between the 270' phase of the cranking to feel like the starter is about to die.

I already have a battery tender jr. I never thought about taking the batter out of the bike to charge it. Good suggestion.

[zerogara]

It is like Mohamed and the mountain, if it was a trials bike I'd say screw campus police just ride that thing up to your room, but it is easier to get the room to the battery

If you have a voltage meter a medium/well charged battery should read 12.3-12.5v, while under charge it will run up to 13v. At that point you should cut the charge off, you'll see voltage drop within a minute, if you allow it to cool down a bit after 15' then recharge for a little while longer and repeat the cycle 5-10 times you'll have the ultimate charge.
A charger will have 13.5v on its own, connected to the battery tha is low will barely go to 12.5 ...... and keep raising.
Anyway, despite of debate here and theory read elsewhere, your bike should not be used as a charger. If you want to be more uptight about it charging a battery in a cold breezy environment is much more effective than in the heat. If you don;t believe me plug your cell phone in the charger and put it in the refrigerator and see how much longer you get to talk. Regulators get fooled by heat to think they have done their job when they have only charged 60%
AH are consumed 3 times faster that they can be built into the battery. So low amps for many hours is the trick. Fast charge is a myth!

[honorcode3]

Originally Posted by zerogara

It is like Mohamed and the mountain, if it was a trials bike I'd say screw campus police just ride that thing up to your room, but it is easier to get the room to the battery

If you have a voltage meter a medium/well charged battery should read 12.3-12.5v, while under charge it will run up to 13v. At that point you should cut the charge off, you'll see voltage drop within a minute, if you allow it to cool down a bit after 15' then recharge for a little while longer and repeat the cycle 5-10 times you'll have the ultimate charge.
A charger will have 13.5v on its own, connected to the battery tha is low will barely go to 12.5 ...... and keep raising.
Anyway, despite of debate here and theory read elsewhere, your bike should not be used as a charger. If you want to be more uptight about it charging a battery in a cold breezy environment is much more effective than in the heat. If you don;t believe me plug your cell phone in the charger and put it in the refrigerator and see how much longer you get to talk. Regulators get fooled by heat to think they have done their job when they have only charged 60%
AH are consumed 3 times faster that they can be built into the battery. So low amps for many hours is the trick. Fast charge is a myth!

Haha, awesome pic! I actually thought about riding the bike through campus just for the heck of it, the handicap ramps are nice and wide, lol. I don't have a voltmeter, but I'll keep my charger handy just incase the battery decides to drain on me (I'll have to figure out what to run the ground wire to on the charger though... maybe my doorknob?)