10-31-2008, 2:11 PM
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Join Date: 01-02-2008 Location: Nashville
Bike(s): 02'VFR800 01'CBR929 04'VTX1300 Posts: 120
Rep:  (14) Rep Power: 2
| DIY.. Brake Bleeding Just thought I would share some info since most of the Used bikes I look at never seem to of ever had the brake fluid flushed or bled. And the Honda service shops want close to $100 do the job. It should be done every 2-4 years and is fairly easy and cheap. Tools: Phillips screw driver. ( for front master cylinder cap) Box wrench, I used a 6mm on my 929. Dot 4 brake fluid bottle. $4.00 fluid is dirt cheap Brake bleeder kit. from AutoZone, $6.50 (plastic hose and a bottle) Task: The front and back are almost the same procedure, but the front has dual brake calipers so start on the one farthest from the master cylinder(fluid reservoir) Front: 1. Take the cap off the master cylinder fluid reservoir. Need the Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws on top.(pull of rubber pressure grommet and plastic inner cap) 2. Put the plastic pipe from the break bleeder kit on the break bleeder screw. 3. Put a touch of fluid in the catch bottle so the tip of the hose in the bottle is in the fluid. 4. Use the wrench to open the brake bleeder screw while applying pressure to the front brake. You want to hold down on the brake, open the screw, wait until the brake lever hits the bottom, and close the screw before letting go of the lever. This procedure will have to be done about 5 times to clear the master cylinder of the old fluid. DONT LET THE BRAKE RESEVOUR RUN OUT OF FLUID! You will get air in the lines 5. Fill the master cylinder back up with fluid and continue bleeding. 6. Stop bleeding when the fluid coming out the bottom is the new fluid you have been adding to the Master cylinder. 7. You are now done with the first front caliper and need to move on to the second front caliper. 8. Tighten the first bleeder screw up to the proper torque, pull the rubber pipe off the screw and put the rubber cap back on the Bleeder screw. 9. Start on the other front caliper. Put the hose on the bleeder screw first and then using the same pattern loosen the screw while pressing down on the front brake lever. 10. Continue until the rest of the old brake fluid is removed. The second brake caliper is easy because most of the old fluid was already removed during the first break bleed. (but continue to monitor the master cylinder's fluid reservoir because you don’t want it to completely empty) Back brake: Same as the first but on most bikes there is only 1 brake on the rear making it very easy. 1. Unscrew the cap off the rear master cylinder fluid reservoir. 2. Put the plastic pipe from the break bleeder kit on the break bleeder screw. 3. use the wrench to open the brake bleeder screw while applying pressure to the rear brake peddle. You want to hold down on the brake lever, open the screw, wait until the brake lever hits the bottom, and close the screw before letting go of the lever. This procedure will have to be done about 4 times to clear the master cylinder of the old fluid. DONT LET THE BRAKE RESEVOUR RUN OUT OF FLUID! You will get air in the lines! 4. Fill the master cylinder back up with fluid and continue bleeding. 5. Stop bleeding when the fluid coming out the bottom is the new fluid you have been adding to the Master cylinder. 6. You are now done with the rear brake line and need to tighter up the brake bleeder screw and put the top back on the reservoir. 7. Empty the old dirty brake fluid into a suitable disposal container for your area. and be careful not to get brake fluid on ANYTHING.. it removes paint dulls Chrome and is just some nasty stuff to shiny surfaces! Be careful on your first ride and pump the brakes a few times BEFORE you leave to make sure everything is tight! If you have no or bad brakes after pumping the brakes a few times after completing the job there is a problem and air got in the lines! Just bleed the lines some more to get the air out. And check the bleeder plastic hose because that is most likely the culprit for letting air in during the bleeding. |
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