I've installed the FactoryPro kit on my Viffer, and really appreciated how much better the beast shifted. When my clutch started to bite a bit, I put a Barnett replacement into it.. This was before slipper clutches..
The Blade brings "shifty" shifting to a whole new level. You need a very "positive" pressure on the shifter to keep the thing nailed to the gear. With the FacotryPro kit, I'm hoping for less hassle and therefore, more attention on the road and not my shifting foot.. (I'd do a slipper, but alas, not enough $$$.)
As the FactoryPro install on a Blade requires removing the clutch basket, I opted to replace the clutch at this time. Here's my how-to for getting it done.
High level steps:
- Remove right side clutch case cover
- Remove clutch, clutch inner and outer baskets
- Remove gearshift spindle, stock gearshift cam, spring and stopper arm
- Replace stock return spring, stopper arm, gearshift cam, with FactoryPro parts. Replace gearshift spindle
- Replace outer clutch basket, then inner clutch basket
- Install new clutch
- Replace right side clutch case cover
Skill level: Medium
- Clutch kit (9 discs, 8 plates, 5 springs)
- FactoryPro kit (stopper arm, return spring, gearshift cam)
- Clutch nut (holds inner clutch basket on main drive shift to tranny)
- Thread locker
- Silicone gasket maker/sealant
This is a manageable project for the average skilled mechanic. If you're handy with automotive tools, it's straight forward. If this is the first time you've worked into an engine, consider getting some experience help to guide you through it. (I've rebuilt a few engines over the years and if wrenching paid as well as software, it'd be my full time gig.)
Nice to have
Remove right side clutch cover.
- Motorcycle stands (for sure a rear stand - I don't know how I got along without them!)
- Impact hammer
- Remove right side cowling
- Drain oil.
Tip: Since I had just changed my oil with 100% synthetic (Golden Spectro), I didn't really want to replace the entire (new) oil. If you leave the bike on its side stand and put a drain catch under the right side cover, when you open it up, only the oil above the oil pan will drain out. Will save you a couple of quarts.
- Disconnect the screws holding the intake cowls to the gas tank.
- Remove the seat.
Tip - a rod to hold the tank up is under the rider's seat
- Open and support the tank in its raised position
- Disconnect the pulse generator. The wire coming out of the right side cover is the pulse generator lead. Follow it up to a red connector, and disconnect it.
- Remove the two bolts holding the clutch cable bracket, and disconnect the clutch cable.
Tip - loosen the clutch cable at your clutch lever by adjusting the clutch adjustment nut all the way into the clutch lever. It makes it easier to remove the lower clutch bracket.
- Remove the right side cover bolts (11) and remove the right side cover. Rotate the clutch lifter arm (the part that the cable connects to) counter-clockwise to disengage it from the lifter piece.
- Remove the two dowels that help align the cover
Tip - if you have the bike leaning on its side stand, now's the time to put it onto a full stand. More oil will run it, so have the drain pan handy.Remove clutch, clutch inner and outer baskets
- Remove the spring bolts, springs and pressure plate. Back the bolts out a bit a time to keep from overloading any single bolt guide until the pressure is off of the springs.
- Remove the clutch plates and judder spring.
Tip - Keep the plates in order and facing each other. There are 9 clutch discs (fiber) and 8 clutch plates. Also, note the direction the judder spring is facing - it MUST be reinstalled in the same direction.
- Unstake the clutch nut and remove the nut.
Tip - if you have an impact hammer, you can hammer the nut loose by keeping the bike in gear, and holding the rear brake. If you don't, try putting a wedge between the rear wheel spokes and the swing arm (2-by-4, breaker bar, etc), make sure the bike is in gear, then break the nut loose with a breaker bar - don't hammer it! Just take up the drive lash until everything is nice and tightened up, and start applying constant pressure on the breaker bar.
- Remove lock nut, thrust washer and inner clutch basket (a.k.a. clutch center). Note that the lock nut has 'OUT' on the side that faces out.
- Remove the washer under the inner basket if it does not come out with the basket.
- Align the primary and sub-gear teeth. The outer clutch basket is driven by the primary gear drive on the crankshaft. In turn, it is used to transfer power to the sub-gear teeth that drive the cams (and pulse generator). To remove the outer clutch basket, the tension must be removed from the sub-gear. This can be down by putting a slotted screw driver against the engine case, and carefully prying clockwise on JUST the sub-gear teeth.
Remove gearshift spindle, stock gearshift cam, spring and stopper arm
- Remove the outer clutch basket. You might have to jog the sub-gear teeth a bit while you're doing this. It should slide out pretty freely.
Tip - just to be safe, it's a good idea to place some kind of cover over the opening into the oil pan and sump areas. If any of the gearshifts pieces get loose (they probably will) this will prevent them from dropping into the pan, necessitating removal of the pan to retrieve them.
- Loosen the gearshifter on the left side where it clamps on to the gearshift spindle.
Tip - the gearshifter has marks on it that will help you re-align it properly on the gearshift spindle. Take a close look and note how the shifter aligns on the spindle.
- Slide the gearshift spindle out from the right side. Note how the spindle assembly springs align with the crankcase stopper pin. When you replace the spindle, you'll need to re-align the springs over this stopper pin.
- Take a close look at the gearshift cam and related pieces. You will see that the stopper arm is held in place by a bolt. Remove this bolt, then the stopper arm, return spring, and washer.
Tip - pay attention to the washers! The stopper arm bolt captures the stopper arm between two washers, with the return spring sitting under the second washer.
- Remove the gearshift cam. Note that behind the cam in the shift drum is a dowel. You do not have to remove the dowel.
Now's a good time to inspect the pieces you are NOT replacing. Look for any obvious damage (e.g., bent/cracked pieces). Also, give the right side cover and mating surface a good cleaning - you don't want to create a new oil leak point when you re-assemble things.
Replace stock return spring, stopper arm, gearshift cam, with FactoryPro parts. Replace gearshift spindle
- Start by putting the return spring, stopper arm, washer and stopper arm bolt back into the motor. Doing this first is easier than putting the gearshift cam in first.
Torque: Stopper arm bolt is 12N/m (9 lbf/ft)
- Lifting the stopper arm up with a screwdriver, replace the gearshift cam and bolt. Be SURE to get the hole on the back side of the new cam aligned with the dowel.
Torque: Apply locking agent to the gearshift cam bolt. Torque is 23N/m (17 lbf/ft)
- Re-install the gearshift spindle. Slide the spindle back into the motor, aligning the spring ends with the crankcase stopper pin.
IMPORTANT: Check the gearshifter works properly
- Re-attach the gearshifter to the spindle on the left side of the bike. Line things up using the marks on the shifter (which you should've already noted)
. Check through all the gears: Shift, then rotate the main drive shaft (where the inner basket goes) to engage the gear. Shift up and down through all the gears to ensure everything is back together properly. If something's not shifting right, now is the time to sort it out!
Replace outer clutch basket, then inner clutch basket
- The outer clutch basket must be properly lined up with the primary and sub-gear teeth. As previously mentioned, the sub-gear is what drives the cams. As such, it will need to be pushed over (in a clock-wise position) to become aligned with the primary gear teeth. Line the gears up, then slide the outer basket into position.
Tip - you need to make sure the oil pump drive is properly engaged with the dogs on the back of the outer clutch basket. I managed to try and screw this up.
After seating the outer basket, I started to try and bolt the inner basket on. The first thing I noticed was the inner was not spinning freely. It was then that I noticed the outer basket appeared to not be fully seated (see attachment misaligned_basket).
If you flip the basket over, you'll see the detents that MUST line up with the oil pump drive (see basket_back attachment). Notice that the rivets in the basket line up with the detents on the basket. Those detents MUST line up with the oil pump drive sprocket (see oil_pump attachment). Circle A in the attachment is the oil pump drive sprocket; Circle B is the oil pump itself.
If you put the basket with one rivet lined with the oil pump driver dogs (circle A), you can move the oil pump itself (circle B) back-and-forth until the basket detents drop onto the oil pump drive sprocket. When done correctly it should look like the attachment aligned_basket.
- Put the large washer onto the main drive shaft, then slide the inner clutch basket, thrust and lock washer. ENSURE the "OUT" on the lock washer is facing outward.
- Apply oil to the clutch nut threads, and torque it down. Use a clutch holding tool, or wedge the rear wheel with the transmission in gear.
Tip - I used a 3/4" breaker bar as my "wedge", between the swing arm and the spokes on the real wheel. The key is to take up all of the drive lash (the slack in the system) until the tire wedges tight. Then do NOT bang on the torque wrench - try to keep a constant turning pressure on the nut. The idea is to keep the nut turning with constant pressure to you don't break any of the drive components.
Torque: Clutch nut is at 127N/m (94 lbf/ft)
Install new clutch
- Stake the nut down to the drive shaft.
The clutch discs are all the same except for one - the innermost disc (see clutchplates
attachment). If you kept your discs in order upon removal, you can see the stock one has a wider inside-diamater (because the disc is a little less wide). This is the disc that goes on top of the judder spring.
Tip - when you get your clutch discs, look the model number over carefully. Eight of them should be the same and one different.
- Install the judder spring. Make sure you install the judder spring with the correct orientation! If the seat is a vertical line, then the spring's outer edge should be resting on the seat - if you are looking from the bike backwards, it would appears something like this: \| with the judder spring the '\' character, and the '|' the judder seat.
- Place the new discs in clean oil. You want them fully coated before installing them.
- Put the one different size disc in first, followed by a steel plate. Note the direction of the steel plates from the stock arrangement. You'll probably find that the outer side of the plates has a sharper edge than the inner side. Put the new steel plates into the clutch following the same pattern.
- Put the rest of the discs and plates into the clutch alternating. The last one in is a clutch disc (not a steel plate).
- Re-install the clutch pressure plate with the lifter bearing and lifter piece.
- Put the new springs into place and start the the spring bolts. Torque the spring bolts down using a criss-cross pattern (it will draw the pressure plate down evenly).
Torque: Spring bolts 12N/m (9 lbf/ft)Replace right side cover
- Make sure both the cover and the mating surfaces on the engine are CLEAN. Otherwise, you're going to be re-sealing the oil leak you create..
- Apply gasket maker/sealer to the cover. Let it tack up for about five minutes - this keeps it from oozing too much into the engine area. BE sure to properlycover where the pulse generator lead goes into the cover.
- Replace the dowels, and put the cover onto the engine. It should go on with some gentle nudging. If you find your having to bang it on with a mallet, slow down and double check the dowels and dowel holes. If there's any debris in there, it can cause an alignment problem.
Tip - don't worry about the clutch lifter arm (the part on the cover the clutch cable attaches to). It can be rotated onto the lifter once the cover is secured.
- Install the cover bolts. Follow a criss-cross pattern - this will pull the cover down evenly.
Torque: Cover bolts at 12 N/m (9 lbf/ft)
- Re-connect the pulse generator lead
- Return the tank to its down position and secure it with the tank bolts.
- Replace the seat and bolt it back down.
- Re-attach the clutch cable. Now's the time to inspect the cable and lever to make sure they are working properly. There's a good chance you'll need to adjust the overall cable length. If so, take the clutch lever adjuster down to the lever, than back it out one complete revolution. Next, adjust the cable slack down by the clutch. Manual calls for about 3/8 in to 5/16 in play at the lever.
- Replace the cowl.
Pretty much it - please feel free to clarify or add as you see fit. I would suggest that while you have in on the stands that you fire it up and make sure everything operates correctly..