I'm finally doing it!

redwhite929rr · 03-21-2006, 11:01 AM

Hello everyone!

I finally sold my 929RR with 25k miles on it. Great bike, I'll miss it so... But after experiencing my first track day at Grattan '04, BlackHawk and Autobahn last year on it, I knew it was time to get rid of the 929 and get a dedicated track bike.

I bought a race-prepped 2003 RC51 last week. Bought a enclosed trailer two weeks ago, and a newer full-size truck to pull it last January.

Oh yeah, I'm serious about this.

Now, my questions are...

1. I'm looking into CCS Midwest Club Racing, maybe start in July. They require a race license of course. Anybody experience a racing school in the MidWest area that is good? Star Racing School comes to mind.

2. I've read something in the CCS Racing Manual about 'catch can or pan'. What is that?

3. The RC51 is not safety wired. This is something I wouldn't mind doing myself. Any good online sites showing you how to do it correctly? Or, anyone know of anybody who does this professionally around here?

Am I missing anything I newbie racer might need to know?

Sunbert · 03-21-2006, 11:06 AM

Tigerblade's the perfect person to answer these questions.

Nickelii · 03-21-2006, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redwhite929rr

2. I've read something in the CCS Racing Manual about 'catch can or pan'. What is that?

3. The RC51 is not safety wired. This is something I wouldn't mind doing myself. Any good online sites showing you how to do it correctly? Or, anyone know of anybody who does this professionally around here?

They may be referring to the typ of belly pan you are using but I am a fool and am wrong regularly. Buy a lot of 1/16 drill bits, use a drill press, and take your time. You can also buy some things pre-drilled (oil drain plug). The rest is not too difficult, did I say buy a lot of 1/16 drill bits? I drill 2 holes directly across from each other, some people only drill one. Any race shop would do it for you, for a price. It's easy, do it your self.

gt702 · 03-21-2006, 11:21 AM

Inexpensive racing school at Grattan on April 1. Great way to start.
http://www.teamchicago.tv/home.htm

This gives the racing and track basics and gets you out on the track. It focuses on track etiqute and racing safety. Follow-that up with the other schools that focus more on the riding side.

The catch pan is the "oil retaining belly pan" and I would think your RC's racing body work should have that. You will also need a catch can to capture any fluid overflows. All of the hoses that normally go out the bottom of the bike should go into a can.

If the RC is race prepped, then why isn't it safety wired? That is basic race prep.

The RC51 is a pretty powerful bike to start racing on, so be very careful with your right hand as you get used to the track.

Make sure the suspension is sorted for you; this is the biggest area to concentrate on with the RC. The bike is very sensitive to suspension changes/settings; get someone to help you get it set up right (come to FB.org days and people will help out

Then have fun. Good luck.

redwhite929rr · 03-21-2006, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nickelii

They may be referring to the typ of belly pan you are using but I am a fool and am wrong regularly. Buy a lot of 1/16 drill bits, use a drill press, and take your time. You can also buy some things pre-drilled (oil drain plug). The rest is not too difficult, did I say buy a lot of 1/16 drill bits? I drill 2 holes directly across from each other, some people only drill one. Any race shop would do it for you, for a price. It's easy, do it your self.

LOL! I heard about buying a lot of 1/16 drill bits. I've also heard about a special tool to make it easier to 'twist' the wire? Or needle nose plyers would do? And you twist in the direction of tighting the bolt? But what if you are wiriing two bolts together? I'm sure it would be easy to understand if I saw some pictures.

Nickelii · 03-21-2006, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redwhite929rr

LOL! I heard about buying a lot of 1/16 drill bits. I've also heard about a special tool to make it easier to 'twist' the wire? Or needle nose plyers would do? And you twist in the direction of tighting the bolt? But what if you are wiriing two bolts together? I'm sure it would be easy to understand if I saw some pictures.

They do make a safetywire tool, I think it's like $25 and is a tremendous help. Actually, I've never tried to safety wire anything w/out it. I'll post some pictures of mine when I get finished w/ class today. Mythology blows!!

BDA116 · 03-21-2006, 11:36 AM

I find it hard to believe that a "race prepped" bike isn't drilled for wire.
If you have to drill, go with a high quality 5/64 bit and cause yourself less grief. Get the nicer quality cobalt bits and take your time. Use some oil or even WD-40 to help cool the bit and give it some lube to help keep the bit from catching and breaking. You'll only need a couple if you do it right.
Or just find an automotvie machine shop and bribe one of the guys with a $20 or a couple six packs.
Get a set of safety wire pliers. Check this thread:
Some safety wiring ?s

tigerblade · 03-21-2006, 1:23 PM

That is kind of funny. A bike that isn't safety-wired sure isn't "race-prepped"! As for schools, Pridmore's STAR School is fun but won't really prepare you for the details of actually racing. I'd recommend talking to Brian McLaughlin with Learning Curves. They help a lot of riders in the area. I personally did my school with CRA. They are a good group of people as well. For specific questions about racing with CCS, go to the CCS board. Most of the posters are in the Midwest/Great Plains regions.

The RC isn't the easiest bike to start racing, but it's fun. I started out on an '01 RC, then switched to my SV650 and improved much more (of course, you're going to improve almost every time you go out on the track for a while).

redwhite929rr · 03-21-2006, 2:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tigerblade

That is kind of funny. A bike that isn't safety-wired sure isn't "race-prepped"! As for schools, Pridmore's STAR School is fun but won't really prepare you for the details of actually racing. I'd recommend talking to Brian McLaughlin with Learning Curves. They help a lot of riders in the area. I personally did my school with CRA. They are a good group of people as well. For specific questions about racing with CCS, go to the CCS board. Most of the posters are in the Midwest/Great Plains regions.

The RC isn't the easiest bike to start racing, but it's fun. I started out on an '01 RC, then switched to my SV650 and improved much more (of course, you're going to improve almost every time you go out on the track for a while).

Hey Tiger. Thanks for the info. Checked out Learning Curves site. Seems to be a much better fit for achieving a race license, and MUCH cheaper. Signed up for the June 10th date.

Sorry in advanced to people before and after this post for saying race-prepped because it was not safety wired. My bad.

tigerblade · 03-21-2006, 3:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redwhite929rr

Hey Tiger. Thanks for the info. Checked out Learning Curves site. Seems to be a much better fit for achieving a race license, and MUCH cheaper. Signed up for the June 10th date.

You're on your way then!

]quote=redwhite929rr]Sorry in advanced to people before and after this post for saying race-prepped because it was not safety wired. My bad.

[/quote]

No need to apologize, it's just that safety-wiring is about the most basic thing you do in order to prep a bike. Don't be afraid to ask questions. There are a lot of good people who are willing to help, especially when you get to the track. The Learning Curves guys will show you the way.

abtech · 03-21-2006, 4:05 PM

Without a recent rulebook, I'm not certain, but CCS and WERA both required a sealed fairing lower that could hold 6 quarts of fluid in the event of a blown motor on the track.

Most racers drill a 3/4" hole in the lowest part of the lower and put a plug in it for normal use, but open it up for draining the fairing on a wet track. Otherwise the tires can dump a considerable amount of water into the lower and then when the bike transfers weight on braking and acceleration it washes down the tires (and everyone behind you).

Nickelii · 03-21-2006, 4:50 PM

I think some people do both axles and pinch bolts as well. I'm not a racer and am just lazy so I didn't. Hope this helps

Nickelii · 03-21-2006, 4:52 PM

The rest

MedTechRR · 03-21-2006, 4:55 PM

I was going to say that CCS won't let a novice start out with a liter bike but apparently a twin cylinder fat pig rc51 is excluded from this rule!

gt702 · 03-21-2006, 4:57 PM

Just a note on wiring, the wire should be routed in such as way as to tighten the bolt. In the caliper pictures, the first one is technically not right because the direction on the lower bolt is to loosen. The second picture is more correct, but could get a little more up on the top bolt.

The idea is that if one bolt tries to loosen, it should tighten the other bolt. If you have more than 2, you work your way through them in an alternating fashion.

Otherwise

. Great example pictures, and I'm sure that first one is in their for illustrative purposes

.

ConqSoft · 03-21-2006, 4:59 PM

My safety wire pics here: http://www.fireblades.org/gallery/br...s&c=508&page=3

gt702 · 03-21-2006, 5:04 PM

Very purdy

redwhite929rr · 03-21-2006, 5:07 PM

Because of researching for new race fairings last weekend, I became fimiliar with the fact that the lower fairing usually needs to be able to hold some amount of oil in the event of a blow up. Makes sense.

I ended up ordering Cheetahs after hours of research. I know it's not the best set, the price was unbeatable though. Fit and finish is not that important to me, and the lower fairing supported AMA standards for oil retention.

So is this what CCS means by a catch pan?

How are the holes usually securely plugged up? Anyone got pics?

From CCS Rulebook:
A maximum of two holes, 1" or smaller in diameter, may be drilled in the fluid
catch pan. These holes are to be plugged during dry conditions, and may be opened only when the event is declared "wet" by the Referee/Race Director.
D. All fluid catch pans must be mounted in a safe and workman-like manner. (Zip-ties and duct tape do not qualify as safe and workman-like mounting.)

BDA116 · 03-21-2006, 5:18 PM

Yes.
Cork and duct tape. Don't worry about the drain unless you plan to ride in a wet race.

Nickelii · 03-21-2006, 5:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gt702

Great example pictures, and I'm sure that first one is in their for illustrative purposes

.

you are correct

Now off to do some safety wiring I go

gt702 · 03-21-2006, 5:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redwhite929rr

D. All fluid catch pans must be mounted in a safe and workman-like manner. (Zip-ties and duct tape do not qualify as safe and workman-like mounting.)

Reminds me of an old naked bike I saw at an AHRMA event. It had one of those heavy-duty disposable aluminum roasting pans mounted under the engine. He had brackets to hold it properly, but it sure distracted from the classic lines of the bike.

tigerblade · 03-21-2006, 6:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redwhite929rr

Fit and finish is not that important to me...

Maybe not "finish" but "fit" can be another story after you've spent some time trying to line it up.

You can go too cheap with bodywork too. Some of the cheaper stuff will just shatter at the slightest impact, so you may have to buy two sets of the cheaper stuff for every one set of quality stuff.

That being said, I went with the cheap (through LP Privateer program) Hotbodies stuff for the SV. It was a bit of a pain to mount, mostly because the SV doesn't have full bodywork stock, so you have to be creative with mounting points. It held up okay to one minor lowside. The rider didn't fare so well...

Gecko5 · 03-21-2006, 9:28 PM

I picked up safety wire pilers (twisters) from Harbour Freight Tools: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45341.
They have a 6" and 9" versions, see attached pic.

Here are some links about "How-To Safety Wire", just some references and ideas.

Whiz Wheels: http://www.whizwheels.com/Tips/safetywiring.html

ROGUE link: http://www.rc51.org/wire1.htm

Sport Rider: http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0002_hand/

Hope some of this info helps.