Let the fun begin..... 954 project (New Bike Being Picked Up)

DEPO · 11-06-2006, 11:52 PM

Well good news, Currie came through and the body work arrived. After some hard poking and pushing..... the parts came to my house. In good shape and ready for my work to be done. Sanding, filling, painting, and etc...

I am going to try to paint the body work as close to the silver on the tank. Keep a little black in the front fender.

Other work to be done.... Gear Work, need suggestions on the best combo (ABTECH?). I am going to keep slip on exhaust, no mods on the flapper. Just a track bike that is reliable and good to go.

Will clean the bike from top to bottom. One issue I found is that the two clips that held my headlight assembly to the bike, both broken. I do not know if that is from my lowside or just years of up and down the road. Will replace the frame sliders just so I have new ones. I want to go with longer ones then the satos. They really saved the day for the bike, but longer ones might have presented more protection for the body work.

I also have a bolt on the clutch cover that is ground down to a nub. Will need to attempt to remove, or just leave since it is not leaking and clutch is in good shape.... suggestions?

Now on to the new bike CBRVFR was not able to convince me and no one will be able to. I am in love and it is with a bike that is way out of my norm of what I would normally purchase. It is Sporty, Tourish, and does the dirt on occasion. It is tall, very tall. It is one of the most comfortable bikes I have ever rode and it comes with hard bags and a tail bag that is removable.

The hint that will lead you to a great guess. It is the 1203 CC push rod 45 degree torque machine that will make my 300 mile days a dream and still be fun in the twisty stuff. Showa Forks, Shocks and fully adjustable on the fly for the shock. Yeap, you are getting close.... Fuel tank is the frame, oil reserve in the swing-arm

Ladies and Germs.... DEPO is buying:

The Ulysses! Got a deal I can not say no and the wife approves..... She hated the 954 because she likes motorcycles, but did not like the ride on the back of the 954, especially in the Chicagoland area. She loves the idea of the back rest and the bags for the 3 day trips.

I got the bike for under ten out the door with the bags. Took a Demo and fell in LOVE. Is not the 140 HP honda. But it has so much more street usable power. It is quick from idle to redline.... 103 hp and 84 ft lbs of torque..... should be fun stuff.

CBR929RE · 11-07-2006, 12:00 AM

glad you finally got the body work.

and congrats on the new bike. that thing reminds me a lot of a BMW GS.

Red Rider · 11-07-2006, 11:56 AM

It's good to hear Crazy came through for you...just a misunderstanding I hope. If you're putting on race plastic the headlight clips won't be an issue. You might try Intuitive sliders...crashed tested and approved by many.

I'd replace the clutch cover if possible. You may need that extra metal if you go down again!

...and congrats on the new ride.

Hammer · 11-07-2006, 5:00 PM

Depo Congrats on the new ride
. Although it is a Harley

The front clips should not be a problem if you are going with trackbody work and a front fairing stay, if this clip is the same one I am thing about. As Red said, replace the covers with aftermarket covers. Many manufactures make them, I have the NRC covers on mine and like them. They are one of the cheaper ones outthere but the do offer more crash worthieness than stock. Give me a buzz if you need help with the bodywork. I am fixing Kawboy's bodywork right now.

phobiaphobe · 11-07-2006, 5:04 PM

Congratulations on the new ~~Useless~~ er, Ulysses.

I think my next street bike will be some sort of dual-purpose. Too many great unpaved roads that I want to explore.

DEPO · 11-11-2006, 11:35 PM

Ok need some help and many suggestions:

1) Do I take the rear hugger off a track bike?

2) Do I take the chain guard, sprocket cover, and all of that off. Seen it both ways?

3) My Upper has ram air holes, if I make the duct work for it would this be worth my while performance wise?

4) The body work for the lower is very snug to the exhaust underneath the bike, part of that I am going to guess is the idea that most bikes that are track ready do not have the huge HTEV assembly down there. I am keeping it. Will the heat off the exhaust cause problems for the body work?

5) What spocket/gear combination should I go with for my bike, mind you Road America would not be out of the question, but not a major concern. Tracks like Grattan, Black Hawk, and etc... Smaller straights?

6) Should I keep the GP shift now that I have a road bike and will going back and forth be a problem?

Answer all correctly or face the abuse of a curious Italian.

Hammer · 11-11-2006, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEPO

Ok need some help and many suggestions:

1) Do I take the rear hugger off a track bike?
I would remove it

2) Do I take the chain guard, sprocket cover, and all of that off. Seen it both ways?
I would remove the chain guard but keep the sprocket cover on the bike.

3) My Upper has ram air holes, if I make the duct work for it would this be worth my while performance wise?
I am not sure about the 954 but my GSXR's ram air tubes mounted up to the fairing stay and upper with little modification so I kept them on there. Even if you had to fab something I would keep the tubes if possible.

4) The body work for the lower is very snug to the exhaust underneath the bike, part of that I am going to guess is the idea that most bikes that are track ready do not have the huge HTEV assembly down there. I am keeping it. Will the heat off the exhaust cause problems for the body work?
It should not create a huge problem as long as it has some clearance. You may notice some discoloration of the inner glass over time.

5) What spocket/gear combination should I go with for my bike, mind you Road America would not be out of the question, but not a major concern. Tracks like Grattan, Black Hawk, and etc... Smaller straights?
Get a few different sprockets to accomidate different tracks but -1 front and +2 rear should get you close.

6) Should I keep the GP shift now that I have a road bike and will going back and forth be a problem?

Depends if you can remember which bike you are on.

Answer all correctly or face the abuse of a curious Italian.

Hope that helps. Others may have more detailed info as well.

CBR929RE · 11-12-2006, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEPO

Ok need some help and many suggestions:

1) Do I take the rear hugger off a track bike?

have you seen the huge hugger on the RC212V? I'd leave it, especially if you have or plan on purchasing and aftermarket shock.

2) Do I take the chain guard, sprocket cover, and all of that off. Seen it both ways?

if it was me I'd leave them. but for a track bike I'd probably say remove them.

3) My Upper has ram air holes, if I make the duct work for it would this be worth my while performance wise?

come on man the search function will give you that answer, which comes down to "no, its not really gonna make a difference." I've read a couple people claims they noticed a difference but they had nothing but seat of the pants dyno evidence. but since you already have the holes I say go buy some dryer ducting and hook that **** up.

4) The body work for the lower is very snug to the exhaust underneath the bike, part of that I am going to guess is the idea that most bikes that are track ready do not have the huge HTEV assembly down there. I am keeping it. Will the heat off the exhaust cause problems for the body work?

get some of that metallic heat shielding stuff. should be able to find it at home depot in the heating section I think. I melted one of the little plastic push clip thingys that hold the 2 lowers together. the actual plastic has been fine though so I just took the clip out.

5) What spocket/gear combination should I go with for my bike, mind you Road America would not be out of the question, but not a major concern. Tracks like Grattan, Black Hawk, and etc... Smaller straights?

no idea

6) Should I keep the GP shift now that I have a road bike and will going back and forth be a problem?

go GP on both or standard on both. I'd say don't mix unless you're sure you won't mess up your shifting. downshifting by accident can be really painful.

Answer all correctly or face the abuse of a curious Italian.

how do you know if any of us answered them all correctly?

and Hammer, let me know if you can find an aftermarket clutch cover the 929/954

phobiaphobe · 11-12-2006, 7:50 PM

I melted a hole in my hugger from using the big Dunlop slicks. edit: 195/70

Red Rider · 11-12-2006, 8:20 PM

1. Keep the hugger. It protects the shock from getting sandblasted (I've been running 190/55 Pirelli slicks without a problem with clearance).

2. I pulled off the chain guard but kept the spocket cover.

3. Forget the ram air...ask abtech.

4. Use some heat reflecting tape.

5. Can't help you with gearing...it's mostly presonal preference.

6. I prefer GP shift for the track. If you can handle both between your bikes than leave it. Put a big reminder on one/both bikes so you don't forget which way to shift!

abtech · 11-13-2006, 7:52 AM

On the gearing, I would go with 15/44 for all around track use. I would also go to 520 at the same time. Re the clutch bolt, I would address that now rather than later when you need to get inside the cover in a hurry.

jamilrahman · 12-20-2006, 6:31 AM

My $0.02
1. Leave the hugger: protects your shock, and you don't have to go through 11 cans of WD40 to remove melted rubber off your bike. And my tire warmers fit in there fine.

2. I personally lef the front sprocket cover on, but some people take it off, cause they say they need to get to the front sprocket faster. I don't mess around with my front sprocket all that much, and i don't want all that chain lube on my engine. I took my chain guard off.

3. Forget the Ram-air.

4. As someone said, get some heat shielding tape, and take up the inside of your lower fairing. Make sure you do it before your first track outing, because once that lower gets dirty, there is no way the tape will stick.

5. Different tracks require different gearing combos. You'll have to find them out.

6. Definatly make both your bikes GP shift or Standard (i recommend gp shift) It is WAY too easy to mess, and grabbing a downshift on the straight or something can be catastrophic.

Good luck.