[half]

I am going to race school/track day in Denver on sept. 25. Any info on prep for me or my bike would be greatly appreciated.

Specific questions

What kind of tape should I use on the lights?
Should I take the bulbs out or remove the fuses?
What psi should I run in my tires? (sportecs)
Do I have to cover the gauges?
Should I set up my suspension differently?
These are my settings now, I'm 200lbs geared
Front
preload= full hard
rebound= 1.5 from full hard
compression= 1.5 from full hard
Rear
preload= 3
rebound= full soft
compression= 1 from full soft

Any other info would be great, Thanks

[sl954]

I used 3m floor marking tape, it comes off with no residue (sp)
I removed the fuses, I think it is easyer than removing the bulbs. I used the settings I use on the street as far as suspension goes, but I'm not that fast, so they worked ok for me.

[HondaGalToo]

I use duct tape. It comes off without much residue. Any residue is easily removed with Honda Spray Cleaner & Polish.
Removing fuses or unplugging the wires is easier than removing bulbs. Most trackday organizers will require that you disable your brake light and remove your mirrors. Also disable the headlight, as once it's taped up, heat will build up and will make a melted mess of the tape on it and/or blow out.

As far as tire pressures, I usually run 30 front and rear. If it's a hot day I'll raise it to 31. If it's wet, keep the pressures higher so the rain grooves in your tires stay open and can do their job.

Taping the speedometer over is a good idea, as it's an unecessary distraction. Keep your tach visible.

You can probably stick with your street suspension settings. Until you have the right springs put in for your weight, you probably can't get the sag set correctly anyway.

Stay hydrated, relax, and have fun!

[dB]

You might want to contact the club or org you're riding with and ask about other requirements, e.g. safety wire, coolant, etc.

I'd cover the speedo if you think it will be a distraction. Also, putting in some rear rebound seems like a good idea, but you can play with that during the day. Probably best to start with your suspension the way you're used to it.

Have fun.

[Zippy]

Go with about 30 to 32 on both tires, measured when cold.

Pull the fuse (under the seat) for the headlights, unplug the light connectors in the rear for the taillights.

You can start with your street settings for suspension.

The 3M blue masking tape is good.

I remove my turn signals and mirrors.

Have fun. Drink fluids. Try to stay relaxed. That's not so easy on the first day or so. Keep a smile on under your helmet. You'll learn faster that way.

Make sure the chain is on the looser side of the spec, and is clean and fresh lubed.

[Denny]

Here's what I do:

Remove seat and pull out headlight fuse
Open trunk and unplug taillights
Remove front signal lenses and pull bulbs
Tape lenses with blue masking tape
Remove mirrors and replace with mirror plates

I can do it in about 10 minutes.

If your rear pre-load is on 3 of 9 and your 200lbs it's too soft. Mines at 7 of 9. At 190 lbs that gives me 30mm of sag. I run 32 psi front and rear tires.

I made some mirror plates out of aluminum. I have an extra set. If you need some I will sell them for $10.

Have fun. It's going to be great!

[half]

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate all the input.

Denny,
When you measure sag do you sit, or bounce a couple times then measure?

[Denny]

Supposed to do both then use the average. It accounts for the stiction. However, I found that the range was only about 3mm so I ditched that methodology. I just sit and have someone measure.

[half]

Thanks

[Zippy]

For my mirrors, I got some rubber washers. The rubber washers go next to the body work, to keep it from cracking. Then a metal washer, then the original screw through both.

Only a buck or two, and you can get them at any hardware store.

I've seen some people run without screwing anything into the mirror mount holes, but I think it is best to put something in there to support the fairing.

[asiliat]

also to note:

Do not try pushing the pace when you're tired. I say if this is your first track day ever, skip the last session. It's novice like us who crash on the last session, last lap, last turn (Seen it done, totalled his bike, not pretty).

Fatigue is your worst enemy (and you probably will be tired.) Keep your bike in one piece for another track day.

[CyBeR929]

Zippy : For my mirrors, I got some rubber washers. *The rubber washers go next to the body work, to keep it from cracking. *Then a metal washer, then the original screw through both.

Are you removing the mirror and the metal casting it fastens into from the faring? If so, you may not need to. All I ever did was remove the mirror from the metal casting....just one bolt. The metal casting stays in place which holds the faring in place....

[Zippy]

Yeah, they can wear you out more than you realize. The more fatigued you get, the harder it is to keep your attention fully focused. With all the excitement and nervous energy, it is easy not to notice how tired you really are. It is much better to sit out a session than force yourself out there and have an accident.

I remember my first several days on the track. I was exhausted beyond belief. I felt beat up and run over, but with a smile a mile wide. I was sore all over in the evening and for the next couple of days afterward.

After going for many track days, I now use far less energy and relax better. I also work out specially to make sure that I have some reserves of endurance and strength so I can go all day for two days in a row without keeling over. Even then, I try to pay attention to how I'm feeling, and watch my fatigue level.

Seek shade, sit and rest a lot, drink a lot, eat bananas, bring a chair and a cooler.

You can drink extra water for a few days beforehand to fight off dehydration. Get as much sleep as you need too. Be well fed. All those things help.

[Zippy]

I remove the metal casting too. I don't know if you can order that casting separately, and it would be my luck to scratch up the casting if I went down, and I'd have to get a whole new mirror assembly. Not that big a deal, because you can get mirrors fairly cheaply on ebay.

BTW, Now I run a race body, tank, and tailsection for the track, because I worried about wrecking my stock bodywork. Still haven't crashed, but the peace of mind is worth it to me.

[02FBlade]

all you need is 3 washers per bolt, that's enought to hold the fairing down firm.....no need to use the big chunky & ugly mirror base.

[Zippy]

I like to use a 'rubber' washer to contact the bodywork so it won't damage it.

[HondaGal]

I found metal washers with a rubber underside at the hardware store...they worked great until I got Nomad's race plates.

[half]

Thanks again everyone, I really appreciate all the help. I'll post the results when I get back. Thanks again.