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post #1 of 7 Old 11-03-2012, 5:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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heated grips

Hi guys and Girls just wanted to know if anyone could give me some info on fitting heated grips to my 99 blade I have been given a set with no instructions
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post #2 of 7 Old 11-03-2012, 9:07 PM
 
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Re: heated grips

I have just had to butcher the set that was fitted to mine..Basically..you need to spur off a live wire with ignition on and them wire in the 2 grips..Use a 5amp fuse just inline and be sure to check they turn off when the ignition does. My varibable control broke on mine so now i have either on or off using a +12v supply from the front brake light wire.
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post #3 of 7 Old 11-04-2012, 12:00 AM
 
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Re: heated grips

Our bikes have enough problems with electrics without adding more load. You sure you want to to it?
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-04-2012, 1:51 AM
 
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Re: heated grips

The ones that I just installed on my 96 where very simple. Only had two wire that needed to connected. I spliced them into the third(parking) light on the front.
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post #5 of 7 Old 11-04-2012, 7:20 AM
 
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Re: heated grips

These things draw a fair bit of current. It's best to install an extra relay hooked directly to the battery, and run the grips from that. Remember the wiring on these bikes is usually done cheap as possible (ie the wires are as thin as possible for the the stock application) - adding extra load especially something as heavily loaded as grips isn't the best thing for it.

If the bike isn't braking properly, you don't start by rebuilding the engine.
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post #6 of 7 Old 11-04-2012, 4:23 PM
 
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Re: heated grips

Quote:
Originally Posted by warloks38 View Post
Hi guys and Girls just wanted to know if anyone could give me some info on fitting heated grips to my 99 blade I have been given a set with no instructions
You don't say which brand they are. Oxford? Hein Gericke? etc
I've fitted a few different brands to about 4 Honda's a Kwaka & a KTM with no running problems over the last 10 years.
Connecting to an ignition switched live is best even if fitting the newer 'voltage sensor type'.
I've got a fitting guide as below giving the basics for most brands:-

Fitting the grips is fairly easy but needs a bit of fore thought before permanently super-glueing them on! so is a job that should be done with care & a few hours to spare:-
Follow the instructions - if not phone the manufacturer or check their web site.
Problem with fitting directly to battery is if youu walk away from the bike and forget to turn them off or some kid presses it on you will come back to a flat battery, so best to fit to an ignition switched live wire. Also when garaged for long periods they can cause draining even when switched off.
The new 'sensor' ones can be directly wired to the battery but they don’t switch off until the battery is about 11.5 volts so may not be enough to electric start the bike, so best to connect to a switched only live wire.
You do not usually have to lift the tank only possibly remove the left or right side plastic cover that runs between the tank & front fairing to gain access to the wiring loom.
1) Remove the existing grips, they may need cutting off with a stanley knife in most cases.
2) Make sure the bars are free from old adhesive and are clean & smooth.

BEFORE applying the glue do a 'dry' run:-
1) Check the heated grips slide on OK & choose the final positioning / direction of the cable outlet ie the bulky bits. This is particularly important on the left bar; make sure the cable outlet does not foul the clutch lever when it is pulled in.
2) Check that the bar ends will fit back on OK and the twist-throttle freely returns. If not you have to trim the end with a stanley knife and re-try.
3) Do a test direct to the battery to check that both grips heat up and they are not faulty.
Note the positions of the cable outlets as once you've put the super-glue on you have limited time to slide the grips into your chosen positions!
Do the above checks before you glue the grips on!!
Fitting:-
1) Wet one grip with super glue and slide into place making sure that the cable outlet is in the position you determined as above.
2) Wipe off any excess glue with a cloth & spirit.
Wiring:- If you have the original hot grips without the auto switch off sensor unit then the easiest 'switched' wire to trace is the one that comes directly from the ignition switch & is usually coloured Red & Black (the 'red only' is usually the direct live feed From the battery) check with a test lamp or circuit tester that the R&B wire operates only with the ignition switch on. The grip-set live lead comes with a ring to fit to the battery bolt so cut it off & use a scotch inline connector to connect it to the ignition-switched wire or connect to a fused wire coming from the fuse box, ie fuse D wire is white / Green on most Honda’s.
Look for an earth point such as a frame bolt or the radiator / fan earth down on the left side or directly to the battery earth.

Cables:- Run cables where they won't snag on full left or right lock. Use cable ties to tie them up and allow for full steering movement including when the throttle is rotated.
Excess cable and the connectors can be hidden under the dash or side fairing. But make sure you can access the grip-set in-line fuse in case you ever need easy access to it.
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post #7 of 7 Old 11-04-2012, 5:09 PM
 
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Re: heated grips

Quote:
Originally Posted by PEM-954 View Post
The new 'sensor' ones can be directly wired to the battery but they don’t switch off until the battery is about 11.5 volts so may not be enough to electric start the bike, so best to connect to a switched only live wire.
That seems a bit daft, considering a 12 volt battery is pretty much empty at 12.1 - 12.3 volts.

The "switched live wire" should come from its own relay connected to the battery. (with the relay being switched from a line that's only live when the ignition is on)

If the bike isn't braking properly, you don't start by rebuilding the engine.
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