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post #1 of 11 Old 12-24-2012, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
 
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Oil pan change

Hi all, i just went through the joy of finding out the ex owner of my 929 tied down the drain plug too tight and cracked the oil pan. Unfortunatly it looks like the crack goes into the threads so it can't be welded. I'm guessing i should just change it for peace of mind. Do i just have to unbolt the old one after draing the oil of course, and bolt on the new one? Will anything fall out once the old pan is off? Do i just bolt on the new one with some gasket maker? Does the exhaust have to come off? Any tips to make this easier?

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post #2 of 11 Old 12-24-2012, 9:14 PM
 
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Re: Oil pan change

Not done one on 929, but changed one on 1000rr, I took downpipes off for better clearance, drain oil, remove bolts, nothing will fall out. I don't think they use a sump gasket on the 929, I may be wrong, on the 1000rr I just used THREEBOND 1207 B 1207B #HONDA BOND# BLACK SILICONE SEALANT 150g | eBay as they don't have a gasket, you can buy cheap silicone stuff, but I prefer good stuff.

When doing sump bolts back up, do so in a criss cross fashion, and use correct torque. I would then leave it for a day before refilling with oil.
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post #3 of 11 Old 12-24-2012, 9:19 PM
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Re: Oil pan change

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Originally Posted by rdeuvletian View Post
Hi all, i just went through the joy of finding out the ex owner of my 929 tied down the drain plug too tight and cracked the oil pan. Unfortunatly it looks like the crack goes into the threads so it can't be welded. I'm guessing i should just change it for peace of mind. Do i just have to unbolt the old one after draing the oil of course, and bolt on the new one? Will anything fall out once the old pan is off? Do i just bolt on the new one with some gasket maker? Does the exhaust have to come off? Any tips to make this easier?

Weld it and then re-tap the threads.
Yes, not too difficult to replace.
No, nothing should fall out :-)
Use ThreeBond.
Yes, the headers have to come off, although it _might_ be possible to do it in place with a little more cursing - worth trying before dropping the headers.

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post #4 of 11 Old 12-25-2012, 2:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Oil pan change

Thanks steve and bladeracer. If i re-tap the threads will i have to oversize the drain plug?

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post #5 of 11 Old 12-25-2012, 10:20 PM
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Re: Oil pan change

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Originally Posted by rdeuvletian View Post
Thanks steve and bladeracer. If i re-tap the threads will i have to oversize the drain plug?

No.
If you drill the hole out and re-tap it to a larger thread you would.

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post #6 of 11 Old 01-17-2013, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Oil pan change

BR, can i use permatex ultra black? And what is the best way to apply this stuff for a leak proof installation? Do i just put a thin layer on the oil pan and tighten it down while wet?

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post #7 of 11 Old 01-17-2013, 12:53 PM
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Re: Oil pan change

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Originally Posted by rdeuvletian View Post
BR, can i use permatex ultra black? And what is the best way to apply this stuff for a leak proof installation? Do i just put a thin layer on the oil pan and tighten it down while wet?

I don't think I've used that myself but I'd be surprised if it didn't work just fine. If it's a silicone be very careful not to cause large dags to spill into the engine when you tighten down the pan.
Yep, just a thin even layer on one surface but ensure you thoroughly clean the surfaces first.
Hand tighten all the bolts, then criss-cross the pan tightening them all down a touch at a time until they're all tight.

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
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post #8 of 11 Old 01-17-2013, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Oil pan change

Thanks for the reply, yes it is a silicone. So i don't need to wait a little bit for it to cure before tightening the bolts? Because i'm affraid that if i fully tighten them when it is wet the stuff will be squeezed and it will be bare metal touching each other...

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post #9 of 11 Old 01-17-2013, 1:01 PM
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Re: Oil pan change

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Originally Posted by rdeuvletian View Post
Thanks for the reply, yes it is a silicone. So i don't need to wait a little bit for it to cure before tightening the bolts? Because i'm affraid that if i fully tighten them when it is wet the stuff will be squeezed and it will be bare metal touching each other...

Personally, I would use ThreeBond, but no, you shouldn't have to wait for it to cure before tightening. The product itself should have usage instructions though, have you checked the manufacturer's website?

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Re: Oil pan change

I ordered it online and the package isn't here yet. I checked the website but there aren't any instructions for it strangely.

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post #11 of 11 Old 01-17-2013, 1:16 PM
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Re: Oil pan change

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Originally Posted by rdeuvletian View Post
I ordered it online and the package isn't here yet. I checked the website but there aren't any instructions for it strangely.

http://www.permatex.com.au/TDS/82180.pdf

They want you to hand tighten, let it cure for two hours, then torque to spec, then leave overnight to fully cure.

1207B is the stuff recommended by Honda in the manual.
Threebond
http://www.techsilonline.com/getatta...Tech-Data.aspx

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