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post #1 of 8 Old 01-27-2014, 9:14 AM Thread Starter
 
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Sorry CCT question again

Hello all im new here but not to bikes, im here calling upon the skills of some of you motorcycle gurus / mechanics, for some help replacing if needed but do initial checks on my Cam Chain Tensioner

I just bought a 1997 RRV 900 Fireblade for work, and im pretty sure the cam chain tensioner has gone/ is stuck, there is a rattle under load from 3000rpm (might be there near the lower end but cant hear as much and only just bought it so was a slow ride home) its defo right hand side of the bike Clutch side and a bit of a rattle, under load havent noticed it under roll off.

I have seen plenty vidoes online on how to retract the plunger and remove the CCT to replace it, but is there a risk that the chain jumps off the cams? (this is while engine off of course) or drops off the bottom of the crank? do i need the crank in a TDC posistion or anything like that? or is it safe enough just to retract and remove and the re install?

I wanted to first wind the plunger back, remove it, oil it and refit, to see if that resolves the issue, or fit a manual one from someone like APE and see how we go,

I have seen a few posts but nothiong about what state the engine needs to be in before removing the CCT,

Thanks
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-27-2014, 12:06 PM
 
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Re: Sorry CCT question again

I wouldn't recommend a manual CCT, I'd go for an automatic CCT again. Do you not have access to a Haynes manual? Want me to have a look see what mine says about it?
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post #3 of 8 Old 01-27-2014, 3:09 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Sorry CCT question again

Hi ya, thanks for your reply, haynes manual is comming soon but wanted to sort this asap, if you dont mind looking that would be great, eveyone says its easy to do but I wanted advice from someone who has done it cause when I did the firestorm 1000 the twin jumped and the chain slipped off the cams so had to get it re timmed, I was told this was because it was a twin and the springs in the valves cause the cam to spin, but an in line 4 should be ok anyone who could help would be great thanks
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post #4 of 8 Old 01-28-2014, 5:25 AM
 
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Re: Sorry CCT question again

From Haynes book of lies:
2.11 Cam chain tensioner - removal and installation. 2 Spanners.

Removal:
1. Remove the fairing right middle section as described in Chapter 8. Unbolt the fairing support bracket rom the frame.
2. Unscrew the bolt and sealing washer from the end of the cam chain tensioner. If the Honda locking key or home-made equivalent is available, insert it in the end of the tensioner so that it engages the slotted plunger and rotate the plunger fully clockwise, then push the key into the end of the tensioner body to hold it in this position. Remove the two bolts to free the tensioner from the engine.
3. If the locking key is not available, use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to rotate the plunger fully clockwise and hold it in this position whilst the tensioner body bolts are removed. The plunger will spring back out once the screwdriver is removed, but can be easily reset on installation.
4. Discard the gasket; a new one must be used on installation. Do not dismantle the tensioner.
Installation:
5. Ensure the tensioner and cylinder block surfaces are clean and dry and fit a new gasket to teh tensioner.
6. Talks about the locking key, I will assume you don't have it.
7. If the key is not available, rotate the plunger fully clockwise with a flat bladed screwdriver and hold it in this position whilst the tensioner bolts are installed and fully tightened to the specified torque setting. Install the tensioner end bolt with a new sealing washer.
8. Install fairing bracket and fairing panel as described in Chapter 8.

Typos are mine, not Haynes. The pictures show the Honda key (which really does look exactly like a screwdriver end) twisting in the the tensioner end clockwise. The next picture is a guy pulling the tensioner out whilst holding his screwdriver in the tensioner.

Any further questions, please do ask. I'm working funny shifts at the moment so it's not easy to sit down to scan stuff in, but I will do if you need it
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-28-2014, 7:48 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Sorry CCT question again

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uebercyclette View Post
From Haynes book of lies:
2.11 Cam chain tensioner - removal and installation. 2 Spanners.

Removal:
1. Remove the fairing right middle section as described in Chapter 8. Unbolt the fairing support bracket rom the frame.
2. Unscrew the bolt and sealing washer from the end of the cam chain tensioner. If the Honda locking key or home-made equivalent is available, insert it in the end of the tensioner so that it engages the slotted plunger and rotate the plunger fully clockwise, then push the key into the end of the tensioner body to hold it in this position. Remove the two bolts to free the tensioner from the engine.
3. If the locking key is not available, use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to rotate the plunger fully clockwise and hold it in this position whilst the tensioner body bolts are removed. The plunger will spring back out once the screwdriver is removed, but can be easily reset on installation.
4. Discard the gasket; a new one must be used on installation. Do not dismantle the tensioner.
Installation:
5. Ensure the tensioner and cylinder block surfaces are clean and dry and fit a new gasket to teh tensioner.
6. Talks about the locking key, I will assume you don't have it.
7. If the key is not available, rotate the plunger fully clockwise with a flat bladed screwdriver and hold it in this position whilst the tensioner bolts are installed and fully tightened to the specified torque setting. Install the tensioner end bolt with a new sealing washer.
8. Install fairing bracket and fairing panel as described in Chapter 8.

Typos are mine, not Haynes. The pictures show the Honda key (which really does look exactly like a screwdriver end) twisting in the the tensioner end clockwise. The next picture is a guy pulling the tensioner out whilst holding his screwdriver in the tensioner.

Any further questions, please do ask. I'm working funny shifts at the moment so it's not easy to sit down to scan stuff in, but I will do if you need it
Awesome, Thanks so much, thats a Hudge help, it confirms what i thought, ill have a go tonight and fingers crossed get it sorted, Thanks Again brilliant !!!!!!
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post #6 of 8 Old 01-28-2014, 7:35 PM
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Re: Sorry CCT question again

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc46 View Post
Hello all im new here but not to bikes, im here calling upon the skills of some of you motorcycle gurus / mechanics, for some help replacing if needed but do initial checks on my Cam Chain Tensioner

I just bought a 1997 RRV 900 Fireblade for work, and im pretty sure the cam chain tensioner has gone/ is stuck, there is a rattle under load from 3000rpm (might be there near the lower end but cant hear as much and only just bought it so was a slow ride home) its defo right hand side of the bike Clutch side and a bit of a rattle, under load havent noticed it under roll off.

I have seen plenty vidoes online on how to retract the plunger and remove the CCT to replace it, but is there a risk that the chain jumps off the cams? (this is while engine off of course) or drops off the bottom of the crank? do i need the crank in a TDC posistion or anything like that? or is it safe enough just to retract and remove and the re install?

I wanted to first wind the plunger back, remove it, oil it and refit, to see if that resolves the issue, or fit a manual one from someone like APE and see how we go,

I have seen a few posts but nothiong about what state the engine needs to be in before removing the CCT,

Thanks

3000RPM is pretty low to be putting load on the engine, are you sure you're not hearing detonation? Does it stop as the tach goes through 4000RPM?

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
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post #7 of 8 Old 01-29-2014, 1:12 AM
 
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Re: Sorry CCT question again

I'm not mechanic, I need to rely strictly by the Haynes manual to do anything, but what are the chances of it being detonation on a standard bike? We don't have low octane fuel over here. Could it be ruled out by trying super unleaded? It may be a low cost differential diagnosis?
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-29-2014, 1:16 AM
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Re: Sorry CCT question again

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uebercyclette View Post
I'm not mechanic, I need to rely strictly by the Haynes manual to do anything, but what are the chances of it being detonation on a standard bike? We don't have low octane fuel over here. Could it be ruled out by trying super unleaded? It may be a low cost differential diagnosis?

If it is detonating it's not due to the fuel, it's due to the low RPM.
Even stock engines will detonate if you put them under low at low RPM, they need revs to be able to breathe.
Certainly try some higher octane fuel and see if it makes any difference, but if it's only at low RPM the best thing to do is to simply stop asking the bike to perform at such low RPM.

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
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