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post #1 of 13 Old 01-12-2015, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
 
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Tune-up

Morning and Happy New Year Blade lovers,
I am getting ready to do a tune up a few questions and I lost the service Manual
1= I need to replace the cam chain tension. is it pretty straight forward and just go w OEM or any other company??
2= valve adjustment, i need to check my valve adj. the bike just turned 18k is it pucks or actually adjuster bolt?
3= Spark Plugs. I have NGK -R plugs. should I install the pair block off plates or leave it stock? I have them , I just don't see where is all the **** going to go when they are blocked off?
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-12-2015, 12:12 PM
 
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Re: Tune-up

you can find a service manual for download several places on the web. just google "cbr 954 sevice manual download." either year, 02 or 03 is fine.

valves have shims n buckets. youll need the manual for sure to check them.

personally i would go ahead with the plates. hopefully you got the ones with the small recess for the screw that sticks up from the reed valves after you remove the pair system. like the driven brand or you will need to rtv the plates to make a good seal. do a search on here or youtube, im sure you can find some info or a video on how to do the mod. its pretty straight forward. you just unhook it all n put the plug on the air box n install the plates. makes it a lot easier next time you gotta get under the air box. : )

"love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle."-Hunter S. Thompson
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-13-2015, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Tune-up

thank you i got the service manual. I wish I could get one with color pictures though kind of hard see the images. so when I block off the pair valves. where is the fumes or air going go. isn't this bad for the head?? I cannot get much feedback on this question. I tried to Google info but no luck
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post #4 of 13 Old 01-13-2015, 12:17 PM
 
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Re: Tune-up

its harmless. the pair system actually pulls air in from the air box through the one way reed valves under the valve cover. that air is channeled down to the exhaust ports on the head just as the exhaust exits the head into the header pipe. there are small holes located in the exhaust port and as the burned fuel exhaust exits the head it creates a suction n sucks in fresh air through the pair system. its an emissions thing. the idea is that when there is a small amount of unburnt fuel in the exhaust gasses that the fresh oxygen being injected from the pair system will cause those small amounts of remaining fuel to achieve combustion as they go through the exhaust pipes leaving less emissions.

removing the system has zero adverse effects on the performance or any other aspects of your engine.

"love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle."-Hunter S. Thompson
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post #5 of 13 Old 01-13-2015, 1:08 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Tune-up

thank you, I think I might just leave on there. How ever I need to or think need to replace cam chain tensioner. while bike is warming up you can hear it like ticking -clicking, once its fully warm to temp it goes away. i just turned 18k on bike. I am doing spark plugs and oil for sure, because I bought the bike last march and I have put close to 2100 miles since on same oil. also the bike came with new NGk's so do them as well.
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post #6 of 13 Old 01-13-2015, 1:19 PM
 
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Re: Tune-up

yeah it doesnt hurt to just leave it on. it doesnt really get inthe way much when doing the spark plugs. people for the most part remove them when they get their bikes tuned on a dyno. the dyno uses a sensor on the exhaust to read air/fuel mixtures and when on the dyno the pair system injecting air throwns that reading off so it has to be removed or disabled. the other reasons to remove it are simplicity in removing the air box and weight savings. which arent much either way. it would make your life easier when you check the valves because the system has to come off for that. the manual says to remove the radiator to do the plugs but i can tell you its easier to just pull the air box n do it that way. its a tight fit getting the spark plug wrench in but isnt a problem. id do them one at a time. : )

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post #7 of 13 Old 01-13-2015, 1:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Tune-up

oh so remove plugs from the top, remove air box. don't fallow the book? because I was going to unbolt the radiator and put down little to get access to plugs. From top how do I remove them?
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post #8 of 13 Old 01-13-2015, 2:09 PM
 
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Re: Tune-up

Sounds to me like the cct isn't farked yet, or anywhere near it.
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-13-2015, 2:27 PM
 
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Re: Tune-up

i mean its your choice but i find it easier to remove the air box tnen you have easy access to the plugs. the hardest part is getting the boots out once you remove the connector on them. the plugs are down in there pretty far so the boots are long. you just kinda gotta take your time because its a tight fit. there is a frame support bar that goes from left to right between the frame that isnt really over the plugs but close. so when you pull the boots straight up itll hit the bar but like i said there is enough room to get them out. the wrench goes in easier than the boots come out. i wouldnt even want to think about trying to do the plugs from the front like the book says.

the air box on the honda is easily the most complicated of any sport bike to remove. lol on a gsxr its four screws. lol

the honda is a little more involved. youve got all the screws, then you have the velocity stacks which is what hold the bottom portion on the throttle bodies, there is a iat sensor on the rear center of the box to unhook, the map sensor and its vacuum hose, and the two other hoses, one on the right and one in the center on the bottom.

sounds worse than it is. the stacks are 6 screws. the two sensors are clip on type n then its just pulling the hoses. its not hard or anything just a lot compared to other bikes ive had.

pulling the box gives you a lot more room to do your plugs tho n is worth the extra 15 minutes imo. just be sure you plug all your sensors up n the hoses when you put it back together. ive forgot to put the map sensor vacuum line on before n itll throw a code if you do.

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post #10 of 13 Old 01-14-2015, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Tune-up

thank you, I will do it that way. this friday . also what to look for on the cam chain tensioner to see if need to be replaced??? and as far as oil, what to run? last bike I owned was a suzuki sv650 so i always get suzuki oil from dealership. made for suzuki and only $8 quart, compared to other oil they sell at powersport dealerships over 12-17 bucks
Im also going to inspect the HTEV system make sure it lined up like the marks and if needed adjust the cables on air flapper and HTEv
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post #11 of 13 Old 01-14-2015, 11:24 AM
 
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Re: Tune-up

CCT symptoms you describe are normal sounds, if it doesn't go away when warm, that's when to look at changing it.
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post #12 of 13 Old 01-14-2015, 1:03 PM
 
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Re: Tune-up

its really your choice of oils. its just important to keep it changed. im thinking the manual says every 8,000 miles but i personally change mine every 3,000 - 3,500. i wouldnt go 8,000 if you paid me. : )

i have used several different oils. i cant justify spending the money on something like amsoil. my personal choice is the lucas oil semi synthetic 10w40 motorcycle oil. i order it from ebay.

Lucas Oil 10710 High Performance Motorcycle Oil 10W 40 1 Qt Bottles Each | eBay

4 quarts plus shipping is 43$ i can feel the difference in how my 954 shifts using the lucas oil over the honda HP4 and costs about the same. if i can feel the difference on the shift pedal then i know its got to be better in terms of protection. its simply smoother with the lucas oil.

i have also used castrol 4t when in a pinch for money and i have no doubt it does its job and felt fine using it because its my opinion that as long as your keeping up on the oil changes at intervals of 3-3500 miles really any oil is going to do its job fine. however, like i said its a noticeable difference when i put the lucas oil back in so i feel like i can justify the extra 8$ over something like the castrol.

Castrol Actevo x Tra 4T Synthetic Blend Motorcycle Oil 10W40 1 Gallon 3166 | eBay

like i said i have used the honda HP4 as well and its not bad but didnt feel as good as the lucas oil.

honda oem filters are pretty much the standard. they arent expensive. or use a hiflo filtro you can also get on ebay

Oil Filter Honda CBR 600 900 929 954 1000 CB CBF | eBay

or the k&n but i wouldnt suggest anything else.

K N Oil Filter for Honda 954 CBR954RR 2003 | eBay

if your like me and want to keep your oil changed more than 8,000 mile intervals you can get away with changing the filter every other time.

might just consider removing the flapper. i did a good amount of research on the mod before i did it. what i found was no real benefit with it in based on dyno testing the mod and just what others who have done it say. there were a couple benifits to removing it though. the main reason i did it was again less stuff to mess with when im getting under the air box. the second reason for removing it was its less stress on the servo motor that controls the flapper and htev system. there are plastic gears inside the servo motor and removing some of the stress placed on them seemed like a good way to increase its functional lifespan. those benefits coupled with no performance increase with it in justified the mod to me.

"love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle."-Hunter S. Thompson
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post #13 of 13 Old 02-06-2015, 9:42 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Tune-up

thank you I went wit the HP4 honda oil an EOM filter, I did remove the flapper last summer for a few days, however i did not see or feel any different, plus a guy convinced me that honda is using it for a good reason and it works so why remove, same w the HTEV unless changing whole exhaust system
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