the ecm will let the bike run but it will cut the power down to protect the bike or the ecm wont let the bike run at all.
When some people read thing.some people take it in different ways.so i might be wrong
When you read a generic computer bike shop manual, man you will find out every bike is different but it's still pink inside the box. The bike works only one way you run a black box with all the same parts functioning the same way is one timed square wave sent or not. Black box has one of those spiral contraptions so it says it can't be half pregnant. The sensor either keeps the light off fandango or it codes into the proverbial [ign curve change] called a limp. Either the bike is at Full [linear smooth] power or is twitchy at the bottom ['we protect the engine'] you pull any plug/wire/turns digital/solder all those wires. It's so funny is that it's pure digital comedy. 'Limp City Special' here I come
Correct. Everything runs except:
Cam sensor ~ No start
Crank sensor ~ No start
ECU ~ No start
Correct again. Nothing else below is needed to run if the 3 above work.
Air temp ~ Starts-protect
Water temp ~ Starts-protect
GPS ~ Starts-protect
TPS ~ Starts-protect
Speed sensor ~ Starts
Intake air pressure sensor ~ Starts-protect
Atmo/02 sensors ~ Starts-protect
And to confirm if the generic twitches the same, correct the answers.
1. The whole point is have a bottom end grunt appear. Yes.
2. The grunt appears when the code light comes on. Correct.
3. The grunt is still present we turn the light off fandango. Correct.
4. The ECU has cut the power down no matter how you stack the wires, did you flipflop to nowhere is one disconnect between reader and page. Data is up in the air is to __________ Fill in the blank.
Are we on the same page yet?
Think I'm going to explain maybe 3 ways how to start that bike on a theft thread? No.
Reversengineering gets you dare.