Does the oil pressure light work normally? That would rule out a problem with the positive side of the circuit.
I would bet that the NSS is faulty and not making a connection when it's hot. To test it, get the bike hot, pull the wire off the switch and ground it. If the light comes on, your switch is bad.
Oil Pressure Light comes on just fine when I turn the key to On, so no problem with that.
I was considering the NSS, however I've heard they're pretty solid, but my bike just hit 38k so I don't know if that's considered "alot" or not. I tried googling where the exact location of the NSS/Connector is but couldn't find it... Any chance you could help with that?
I'm going to explain magnetism and his two sidekicks, heat and chemical reaction. Mag is moving thru wires and other jobbers needing electricity. Heat is the killer and chemRe is the coating.
Just for grins, no idea the age of the battery, the prep of the battery, the cable installation of the battery, I'd move to the battery and scrape clean the bottom of the cable ends and the tops of the battery posts with a single edge razor. This removes any chemRe [in between] the cables that may stop the flow from their connection points.
There is nothing wrong with the parts if cold starts them up. Switch is grounded or would not come on if cold or hot. Other chemRe problems are looking at all your connectors and seeing if there is green chem build at the pins. Lots of heat, lots of resistance going on there.
Scrap cables and use vaseline all over the nuts, bolts touch points. It's like compression. Get this out of the way first are tight battery leads and chemRe free of the white powder build at those contact points. Missouri about as damp as a wet rag?
I've checked all the cables before and no corrosion on the wires/connectors, I do understand what you refer to though since I'm basically a technician so it makes sense. However also living in California, it's usually pretty dry around here. Bottom of the battery is clean as a whistle, but I don't think it's too old since it retains it's charge/provides more than enough juice when I'm able to start it.
Just another thing I noticed... About once or twice a month, when I do turn the key to on and hit the start switch, light cuts out, oil light goes off.... And just a click, no crank. Put the bike in 1st, rock it back and forth to move the starter, then it fires right up...
At this point I'm thinking it's either the NSS or Starter, but leaning more towards the NSS...
So I found the position of the NSS... On the back side of the engine next to the mid pipe/rear spring... How do you get to that? Take off the mid pipe?
Update #2: Checked the haynes manual... Seems I do have to take off the exhaust/mid pipe to get to it. However, was able to squeeze my hand and physically touch the back of the sensor... The Neutral indicator was flickering. Seems it's not on fully, so guess I'll save it for the weekend when I have more time.