Strange exhaust burn pattern *PIC* - Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org
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post #1 of 7 Old 07-07-2017, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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Strange exhaust burn pattern *PIC*

So i removed my exhaust for the first time since buying the bike. A LeoVince Full SBK system.

Out of the 8 header bolts only 5 were present.

No exhaust gaskets to be found(they are on their way)

Cylinders 1,3 and 4 seem to show normal deposits etc but its number 2 that has me a bit worried.

Of the 5 exhaust bolts that hadnt rattled themselves loose or not been put back by the previous owner cylinder #2 had NO BOLTS whatsoever.

Im aware that the white deposits denote a lean condition. My question for those of you who know the bike better than i is this: Do you think it possible that this burn pattern is a result of there not being any manifold bolts or should i dig deeper?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 7 Old 07-11-2017, 12:30 AM
 
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Re: Strange exhaust burn pattern *PIC*

How do the exhaust ports look on the cylinder head? Have you checked the spark plugs? Post a pic of the exhaust ports
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post #3 of 7 Old 07-11-2017, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backdoc View Post
How do the exhaust ports look on the cylinder head? Have you checked the spark plugs? Post a pic of the exhaust ports
The exhaust ports look much the same as the headers do. Cyl #2 has a much whiter tint. The bike is not in front of me right now or i would take a pic.

The plugs were literally just changed a single 20 mile ride before i took the exhaust off. All of the old plugs looked like a rich condition was present in all cylinders but were otherwise OEM NGK plugs in fine shape.

I did a spark test after i pulled the exhaust and all cylinders have spark. My only other thought was a bad or clogged injector?

Im pretty much coming to the conclusion that the bolts missing as stated in the OP are the cause. The way the fairing are set up would literally be forcing air into the seam between a loose header and cylinder head at speed.
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post #4 of 7 Old 07-11-2017, 1:30 PM
 
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Re: Strange exhaust burn pattern *PIC*

I'd be inclined to clean it up, fix the known fault (missing bolts) and then ride for a while and see what happens. When you have a very definite fault like the missing bolts, there's no point trying to second-guess further problems.
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post #5 of 7 Old 07-11-2017, 1:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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^Pretty much what im thinking. Not nuts about taking it apart again and having to redo the gaskets later but if all is well i may not bother. Ill probably test the spray patterns of the injectors just out of sheer paranoia. Bike is about to go in for a tune so im trying to get it in full shape.

Thanks everyone for the help! Anyone have any further input it's greatly appreciated.
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post #6 of 7 Old 07-11-2017, 9:17 PM
 
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Re: Strange exhaust burn pattern *PIC*

First up,you read exhaust ports and hedders as do you spark plugs.
Ie;right there and then. A goldfish has better memory,in other words it is NOT indicative of what has happend over the long run. IOW,to read any of them you need to have killed the ignition right there and then.

Next up.
Cylinder 2 is the one that looks the MOST correct if we´re talking wide open throttle. When going WOT you should see along the lines of 910-940degC at that point (approx an inch or so off the exhaust port of the head). Ergo,that anything should be left sooty if even remotely within reason tuning wise is highly unlikely. Hot as hell? Yep. In fact at that point when everything is as it should just coasting along you should see around the 430-460degC mark or so (light load coasting,freeway or similar)

However.
As the engine has seen lost exhaust hedder nuts,and totally so for cyl 2,it amounts to about nothing. In essence no conclusions can be drawn from that pic of yours. Fresh air WILL have entered at that point.

Word of advice. If you´re unsure that you´re ontop tuning wise invest in a wideband O2 setup. A simple regular 52mm gauge and a Bosch LSU4 will do it. That way you can always be ahead. Should run you like 200-240 dollars approx.
The LSU4 lambda needs a weldnut installed at the collector of the hedder pipe. Make sure that this weldnut isn´t installed so the lambda is at horisontal. That´s about it.
No need to ever take it out of there. About the only thing that might kill it is anti-freeze in the exhaust due to a shot headgasket or similar. Expect response time of O2 to be along the lines of 1/10 of a sec or so.
A step drill and a regular MIG welder is all you need to make it all happen. Yeah well,that and a few wires hooked to where they need to go.
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post #7 of 7 Old 07-11-2017, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing View Post
First up,you read exhaust ports and hedders as do you spark plugs.
Ie;right there and then. A goldfish has better memory,in other words it is NOT indicative of what has happend over the long run. IOW,to read any of them you need to have killed the ignition right there and then.

Next up.
Cylinder 2 is the one that looks the MOST correct if we´re talking wide open throttle. When going WOT you should see along the lines of 910-940degC at that point (approx an inch or so off the exhaust port of the head). Ergo,that anything should be left sooty if even remotely within reason tuning wise is highly unlikely. Hot as hell? Yep. In fact at that point when everything is as it should just coasting along you should see around the 430-460degC mark or so (light load coasting,freeway or similar)

However.
As the engine has seen lost exhaust hedder nuts,and totally so for cyl 2,it amounts to about nothing. In essence no conclusions can be drawn from that pic of yours. Fresh air WILL have entered at that point.

Word of advice. If you´re unsure that you´re ontop tuning wise invest in a wideband O2 setup. A simple regular 52mm gauge and a Bosch LSU4 will do it. That way you can always be ahead. Should run you like 200-240 dollars approx.
The LSU4 lambda needs a weldnut installed at the collector of the hedder pipe. Make sure that this weldnut isn´t installed so the lambda is at horisontal. That´s about it.
No need to ever take it out of there. About the only thing that might kill it is anti-freeze in the exhaust due to a shot headgasket or similar. Expect response time of O2 to be along the lines of 1/10 of a sec or so.
A step drill and a regular MIG welder is all you need to make it all happen. Yeah well,that and a few wires hooked to where they need to go.
Nice. Another helpful post. The bike has NEVER had any kind of tuning despite a P CIII being installed by the PO. It has a map in it that Dynojet advised me is a good base for the current mods but will be getting dyno tuned as soon as the exhaust is tight again.

My comments on the deposits relates to rather having a rich running untuned bike vs one that is running lean.

As for the temps i understand that its so hot there that nothing should really remain after a good run. The bike hasnt seen over 10k rpm due to the fact i know that the settings are less than optimal and even 10k rpm is a rarity.

The more ive analyzed this the less worrried i am that something other than a poor tune and poor maintenance is to blame.

Again, thanks for the input and i will revisit your post once i do more mods after the professional map as i dont plan to take it backnthere unless absolutely necessary.
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