I have a 2010 cbr1000rr that cuts out and backfires around 8k, it's all stock except the exhaust, It didn't start tell I removed the baffle so I put the baffle back in and the issue proceeded, I have been all over looking for ideas, I have cleaned the tank the injectors all work, and the mesh screen in the tank and it hasn't worked I'm at a loss.
Not worked on the later Blades, but this sounds like a mapping issue, does your bike have a Power Commander, with a new exhaust it should need re-mapping , a Dyno run should find the fault, and have you tried putting the stock can back on
Maybe a few other things to check, fuel line, IAT sensor, MAP sensor , and looking at other symptoms , it came up with faulty side stand switch, could be one to check by just bypassing it for one run only, dont know where you are , but bariometric pressure could be a factor, could be ECU restricting fuel :wink
Fouled plug for some unforeseen reason? Typically though, it will run like crap throughout the entire rev range (that the fouled plug will allow it to). Running rich for a basically stock bike seems kind of odd to me. Generally bikes are as lean as they can be, up to a point to meet emissions standards. Rich with no mods is a kind of a paradox. It should be as lean as lean can get. Maybe the richness fouled a plug(s).
Does it get through the 8k interruption, then on to red line ok? And how was the rich condition fixed without a PC?
What is the history of the bike as far as you know?
plugs replaced no change still cuts out, I'm at a total loss, checked sensors all are good I'm at a complete loss, but after plugs it had one good run that crapped out again, bypassed the kick stand sensor no change, will continue checking sensors I guess
going to try the cps, read another thread and sounds like that could be my issue, the only thing is it's not throwing any codes for anything, the checks engine light isn't even coming on. so now it just kinda plug and play.
Sounds like you've had it apart at least a couple of times by now so the only bit of advice that I'll offer is to check, re-check & then triple check ALL of the connections that were touched (unplugged & plugged back in) during the teardown/re-assembly process.
Disregard if this has already been done...
Are you also using the correct sparkplugs called for in the service manual ?
new update bike now the tach will go crazy check engine light came one then never cut out again while the check light was on. any new ideas?
and this:
no stored codes, but now it's doing something totally different, if the temp stays under 180 it will ride for ever but once the temp gets past that the bike will stall out and wont go past around 4000 rpm, in order to start it while its hot I needed to turn the engine cut off switch on and off a few times, then it would start idle fine but dies out completely at around 4000, let it cool off and it's good to go again?
This sounded reminiscent of when the cam position sensor was faulty on my 929. Check the wiring first off from the cam sensor (front right top of engine - if your sat on the bike) and check the wires and connections are good, even any wires that are inside sleeving. One of the wires on mine had been pinched and almost cut through, but when the motor was cold it as better then hot?!? Worth a look I reckon....
no stored codes, but now it's doing something totally different, if the temp stays under 180 it will ride for ever but once the temp gets past that the bike will stall out and wont go past around 4000 rpm, in order to start it while its hot I needed to turn the engine cut off switch on and off a few times, then it would start idle fine but dies out completely at around 4000, let it cool off and it's good to go again?
Would agree with Ian, are the secondary injectors kicking in, they should come in at 5k ?. Have you tested the TPS and maybe (just this once) bypass the Kill switch for a static test
On my 2006 8k is the point where the secondary injectors kick in. Have you verified that all 8 injectors are working? (edit: you said they work) How about the fuel pump with it's integrated FPR? Checked for fuel-line kinks? Has the ignition timing been monkeyed with?
all injectors have been replaced, and I have checked the fuel lines multiple times, even pulled the side fairings off and guided the hoses down with the tank as to make sure the fuel lines were not kinked, also cleaned all the connections and put the connector grease stuff in them, nothing with the fpr has been messed with, the only mods is a slip on voodoo but the issue was there before the slip on, what gets me is even on a dyno and it was cutting out it was throwing any codes and there are no stored codes
There is an injector test you may want want to try. I’m thinking they’re not getting a command onto squirt fuel or there’s inadequate delivery. Since you’ve replaced the injector then you’ve likely eliminated the injectors themselves as a culprit. Do you know the cut point for operating the secondaries? I’m thinking something got unplugged when you did the work on the bike.
I went back over this thread and the OP @JONZZZY didn't say what changed since the bike was working to not working. I'm also beginning to wonder if he's chasing a dying ECU.
The ecu is probably more reliable than the sensors and wiring though unless it’s got wet and corroded contacts but even that’s not the ecu at fault
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