Hey everyone. I’ve been working on my 954 project all day trying to get spark. But I’ve been unsuccessful.
A little backstory: (feel free to skip this paragraph). I picked up this 954 from a friend for $500. It was mostly disassembled but i bought it anyway as I’ve been looking for a fun project. Anyway. It was crashed and had an issue where it was turning off randomly while riding. Eventually it wouldn’t start at all (so I’ve been told. Not sure i believe). Anyway. It went around to different bike “shops” (glorified backyard mechanics) and they couldn’t figure it out.
Anyway I’ve been working on it and got the bike to crank but I’m getting no spark at any of the plug wires. I tried jumping the diagnosis plug but no info came back. I tested the kickstand switch, and killswitch and i even bypassed the killswitch to make sure. But to no avail. All fuses are in tact and the batter is fully charged and even a jumper was used.
I was reading online that the black and white wire that connects to the ECU should have continuity with the chassis ground. But mine doesn’t. I’m not sure if that’s a true thing or not but i did notice that it doesn’t.
Other than that i have no clue what to do now. Or what to test next. The stator wire has continuity with all 3 prongs. I haven’t tested the RR yet.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you all so much!!
Update. I tried testing continuity between the pink wire connection to the ECU and the ignition switch plug. And i wasn’t getting anything! Could this be the source of my problem?
Never mind. I do have continuity between the pink wire. I just tested it again.
Anyway I disconnected the cam pulse generator and put a test light on it. I then cranked the bike and got no light. Not sure what this means but figured it might be worth mentioning
I tried doing my test light off of the 4 pin plug off the black ECU connector (with the yellow/white, blue/red, pink/blue, blue/black) and i cranked the bike a few times and got no light on any connector.
This means that the ECU isn’t sending out a signal to the plugs which is why I’m not getting spark. Not sure where to go from here but at least I’m narrowing it down.
Had the same problem but my Issue was the ECM .
check you tip sensor make sure its plugged in or bypassed the right way , make sure your getting 9v from your Ignition pink/white with the key in the on position, & check all your ground wires , & the battery is reading 12.6 V , hope that helps
Had the same problem but my Issue was the ECM .
check you tip sensor make sure its plugged in or bypassed the right way , make sure your getting 9v from your Ignition pink/white with the key in the on position, & check all your ground wires , & the battery is reading 12.6 V , hope that helps
My pink wire is reading 11v and my battery is giving me 12 flat.
The TIP sensor is plugged in, but I also tried by passing it to no avail.
I'm beginning to suspect the ECM but i'm worried about spending the money only to have no change... is there any way I can test the ECM before dropping $150 on one?
If your getting 11V from the Ignition wire back to the ECM , then maybe you have a bad ignition , if you turn the key on position & read p/w wire you should have 9v . not 11v there is a small resistor inside the key Ignition it bring down the voltage to 9v to the ECM , ( anti theft ) , try that before anything... oh 12V flat would not turn the startear fast enuff to create sprK . under 12.56V batter will have hard time starting a 954 .
If your getting 11V from the Ignition wire back to the ECM , then maybe you have a bad ignition , if you turn the key on position & read p/w wire you should have 9v . not 11v there is a small resistor inside the key Ignition it bring down the voltage to 9v to the ECM , ( anti theft ) , try that before anything... oh 12V flat would not turn the startear fast enuff to create sprK . under 12.56V batter will have hard time starting a 954 .
I charged up the battery to 12.6 and tried again, no change.
I then realized I tested the wrong wire (pink not pink/white) so I tested the Pink/white and got 12.11 Volts!
Just to make sure I am testing this correctly... (I'm really bad with electrical please forgive me!) The way I tested it was I set my voltmeter to 20v and I unplugged the one plug on the ECU and probed the pink/white wire with the red and I put the black on the battery ground cable and the voltmeter read to me 12.11v
Just double checking I am doing this right... it sounds like we may have figured it out though!!! It could be the security system... now I just need to figure out how to dis-arm it?
I cannot thank you enough, I feel like we are getting close to some answers!
Anything more on the pink wire out of the ECU with the key switch on will send a "no spark" signal. If you have 12v on the pink wire at the ECU then your Zener diode in the base of the ignition is bad or missing.
Do you have the original ignition switch on the bike?
Anything more on the pink wire out of the ECU with the key switch on will send a "no spark" signal. If you have 12v on the pink wire at the ECU then your Zener diode in the base of the ignition is bad or missing.
Do you have the original ignition switch on the bike?
I don't believe so, the previous shop that worked on it I believe put on a different ignition, in fact I know they did because it's a different key that works for my gas tank.
I have the original ignition in a box full of parts they gave me, but the wires have been cut.
Good chance they didn't wire in a resistor to drop the voltage? Should be quite a few posts on the forums on how to wire in a resister of the correct rating to match the resistance of the diode in the key?
The easiest way to figure out the resistance with the original key... can measure the resistance from that key usually.
Companies do sell kits on the internet too that might work ..... what you are looking for is the "Zener Diode".
The other posters are correct about the pink should be getting a different voltage at pink wire.
So i tried the 9V battery trick but still no luck. After that i decided to just plug the original ignition back in and something happened.
First of all I’m getting like 8.7V to the pink wire (instead of like 11V i was before). Next when i switches the key the fuel pump started priming! Or at least something was making noises down by the injectors. Not sure what it was. But i think it has something to do with fuel.
Anyway still no spark but i feel like this change is huge and maybe we are getting closer to getting spark! Any more advice or things to check? ?
CORRECTION not the fuel pump. I’m dumb and forgot the pump is in the tank. It appears to be the servo motor? It just runs indefinitely with the key on. It only does this on the oem key. The other one i get no servo motor.
I can’t believe it!!! I didn’t have a plug plugged in. But once i plugged it in the oem ignition gave ME SPARK!!!! AHHHH I CANNOT TELL YOU GUYS HOW HAPPY I AM!!!!
THE P I N K WIRE WAS KEY ALL ALONG LIKE WE THOUGHT!
Once the pink wire was sorted the bike is A OK. Thank you guys so much for helping me! I am so grateful!
I just squirted some starting fluid into the cylinders held the throttle wide open and cranked it and the bike fired up! It died shortly after but man i am so happy. Can’t wait to put it all together and hear it idle!! So much excitement ?
Best feeling in the world, I remember cranking my scruffy 1994 RR-R with a fresh battery but a tank full of old fuel and it fired after about the fifth attempt, after being unloved at the back of a garage for five years, not only did it fire up but it ran and ran really well.
It was the two pin plug that goes into the engine that connects to the spark plug wires. I forget what it’s called. It comes up by near the radiator on the clutch lever side.
It was plugged in before but i had it unplugged when testing the new ignition which is why i had trouble right away. It was a combination of everything.
I have an EFI light on, I think it's because of the servo motor... it's constantly running when I turn the key. I'm guessing it's bad or maybe not hooked up properly... probably going to get a servo buddy if I cant figure it out.
...and thanks for updating your thread :thumb:
surely, many with similar symptoms wil read this and be able to troubleshoot their own machines. righton.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org
1.2M posts
83.2K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Honda Fireblade motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more! Find conversations about your favorite CBR 900 or 1000 series RR models.