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cbr954 Air Intake Temperature sensor

3K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  machinehead 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all,
I have the tank up on the cbr954 as I want to check the spark plugs but I cant seem to pull the Grey AIT sensor out from the underside of the airbox housing.

it looks like it may be on some sort of push down and pull item so the small indented hole in the plastic goes over a small plastic lug before being removed but it will not come out for toffee.
Any ideas. thanks.
Ps, if I cant get it removed would it be possible to loosen the radiator to get to the plugs?
 
#3 ·
it will have locking tabs and you have to press a tab down and pull at the same time - don't pull on the wires though!

I thought the 954 was like the 929 and you can get the plugs out from going in the side over the cam cover - I never did change them on my 954 but done it a few times on the 929 this way. Having just checked a PDF of the owners manual and (UK Version) page 97 starts with removing the lower cowl, removing the lower radiator mount to move it forwards, and to go in that way. Good luck going in over the top though...
 
#4 ·
Thanks, Any info is appreciated.
Looks like someone before me has had a go at trying to remove the AIT connector and damaged the clip as it will not give at all. Bike has only done 10k and Honda say 32k to replace the plugs on this model but i just wanted to check them.. Bike runs sweet and smooth as it is.
I like to do the majority of servicing myself but may have to leave this to my local bikeshop when it's due a plug change.
I've no problem taking it all to bits but feel pissed off that a simple connector is stopping me .
 
#5 ·
if you're after checking the plugs just do it from the side as per the owners (and workshop) manual and you don't need to remove seat/tank/airbox/sensors. You will be unlikely to get at the plugs from above anyway because of the way the engine leans forwards in the frame. You'll need to use the spark plug removal tool from the tool kit too unless you've a small sized socket set that you can fit in the space. If you have not got the Honda workshop manual you can find it as a PDF download and the information is invaluable!
 
#6 ·
Hi.
I downloaded the honda workshop manual but like many owners before me, all say the best way is through the top as going underneath is meant to be very tricky... even the Haynes manual say to remove the airbox to get to the plugs.
Has anyone on this site taken the plugs out by dropping the radiator and if so how the hell do you pull the coils out?
 
#7 ·
I've always done them from the side. IT IS DAMN FIDDLY! But, as others with no doubt testify, well do-able with patience.

After freeing up space my moving the rad forwards as described, you can get the room you need.

Unplug each wiring plug, and you can pull the coils straight out and the tilt/tip them to get then right out. using the spark plug tool the plug is retained in the tool so is easy enough to get out.

Make sure you get the wiring plugs back on in the right order - I've had cyl 2 and 3 swapped an it will start and run on 1 and 4 but it sounds awful! LOL

Honda's own owners book and workshop manual say to do it this way so there is probably a good reason.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for that,
I'm going to have a go this week now you've said you've done it.
It put me off cause I've got fingers like sausages and hands like lurch off the Adams Family lol.
Do i have to support the radiator by means of a bungee or something underneath it and do i have have to drain it first.
Thanks once again for your help.
 
#9 ·
in short:
remove middle faring panels
unplug the cooling fan (remember to reconnect this at the end!)
you do not drain the radiator/cooling system
remove radiator lower mounting nut/bolt then the top one
slide the rad to the right to unhook it from the grommet
the hoses give enough support to the rad so no bungee or support is needed
unplug each connection from each coil (note which ones number 2 and 3 are. 1 and 4 are obvious but easy to get the middle two round the wrong way)
pull each coil up and out (I don't think it matters which one is where as they are all the same iirc).
remove each plug using the tool kit spark plug removal tool
inspect and replace as necessary. if cracked/damaged then replace. gap should be 1mm (0.04")
reinsert plugs and tighten (12Nm or 9 lbft torque when reusing existing plugs as the washer has already been compressed. New plugs is hand tighten them and then use the tool to add 1/2 a turn)
then the coils and connectors
re-hook the rad in the grommet
fit top mounting bolt then lower one
reconnect the fan
lastly the faring panels go back on

sausage fingers won't help here I will tell you now!!!
 
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