Hello my friendly wrench heads. I'm hoping some of you might be able to lend a hand with a few mechanical questions.
I installed my new Scotts damper last night. 1) I didn't have a torque measuring thingy to tell how many pounds torq I was acually putting on the 30mm nut that the damper mounts to on the Triple Clamp. I put it on DAMN tight - any forseeable issues? and 2) For those of you who have the scotts, what setting do you keep it at? and finally 3) what's the safest way to test out my handy work of installing it?
If you are referring to the hex nut for the steering head, I would think you would most definitely want that torqued to spec. As far as the settings go, Stock should be pretty adequate for most riders.
Hello my friendly wrench heads. I'm hoping some of you might be able to lend a hand with a few mechanical questions.
I installed my new Scotts damper last night. 1) I didn't have a torque measuring thingy to tell how many pounds torq I was acually putting on the 30mm nut that the damper mounts to on the Triple Clamp. I put it on DAMN tight - any forseeable issues? and 2) For those of you who have the scotts, what setting do you keep it at? and finally 3) what's the safest way to test out my handy work of installing it?
1. You should be fine.
2. I keep mine on the stock setting, even at the track. You'll know if you need to firm it up a bit.
3. Take it for a road test...if it doesn't fall off, you're set.
BUY A TORQUE WRENCH! Seriously, they're not that expensive and you'll need them for tire changes if you remove them yourself, or your car or lawn tractor, etc. You can never go wrong with tools. :smilebig:
As far as the Scotts, play around a little. I found that I had mine set a little stiff for awhile. I did a couple track days and it seemed hard to turn it over in the corners. I eventually lessened the setting and noticed much easier turning, haven't messed the other adjustments.
Actually that nut torques to I think 78 lb. ft. So if you used a regular ratchet or a wrench less than a foot in length you probably didn't overtighten. For higher torque fasteners like axle nuts and and steering head cap an old fashioned beam style torque wrench is just fine and can be had for about twenty bucks. It's when you get into critical areas like engine assembly and torque values that are really low that you will want a top of the line clicker wrench that is closely rated to the job bieng performed. And when I got my Hyperpro they sent a dab of grease so you get an accurate torque and don't grind off the notch that locates the damper.
I too just installed my Scott's damper ( A big :thumb: to Jeremy). The instructions say to torque the hex nut to 85 lb. Since I don't have a torque wrench, I just cranked it on tight! The stock nut (after the steering head bearing update) was on tight so that's what I used as my gauge. Anyway, when I was installing the damper, I dropped one of those little allen screws into my bike's "innards" which then took me another 15 minutes to find :rant: I swear something like that always happens, never fails.
After damper installation, just kept the stock settings and now the bike just seems so much "tighter". No more shaking when going over those expansion joints at around 100 mph and it just feels like it will hold any line in corners even with unexpected bumps. Slow speed steering isn't affected. Great mod. :thumb: Why did I wait so long? :idunno:
I too just installed my Scott's damper ( A big :thumb: to Jeremy). The instructions say to torque the hex nut to 85 lb. Since I don't have a torque wrench, I just cranked it on tight! The stock nut (after the steering head bearing update) was on tight so that's what I used as my gauge. Anyway, when I was installing the damper, I dropped one of those little allen screws into my bike's "innards" which then took me another 15 minutes to find :rant: I swear something like that always happens, never fails.
After damper installation, just kept the stock settings and now the bike just seems so much "tighter". No more shaking when going over those expansion joints at around 100 mph and it just feels like it will hold any line in corners even with unexpected bumps. Slow speed steering isn't affected. Great mod. :thumb: Why did I wait so long? :idunno:
Hello my friendly wrench heads. I'm hoping some of you might be able to lend a hand with a few mechanical questions.
I installed my new Scotts damper last night. 1) I didn't have a torque measuring thingy to tell how many pounds torq I was acually putting on the 30mm nut that the damper mounts to on the Triple Clamp. I put it on DAMN tight - any forseeable issues? and 2) For those of you who have the scotts, what setting do you keep it at? and finally 3) what's the safest way to test out my handy work of installing it?
1. You should be fine.
2. I keep mine on the stock setting, even at the track. You'll know if you need to firm it up a bit.
3. Take it for a road test...if it doesn't fall off, you're set.
On a motorcycle you have a bunch of different materials, steel, alloys, aluminum, magnesium. They all have different hardnesses. If you're threading a steel bolt into aluminum threads, you can very easily strip the aluminum threads if you overtorque it. Take it from me, I'm the king of overtorquing. You can quickly damage soft sensitive material, and it'll be hard to get things to tighten again properly. A torque wrench is now an essential piece of equipment in my garage, and I try to identify the materials that I'm bolting into or through every time I attach a fastener.
Also, make sure you use some kind of anti-seize, whether it be grease, loctite, etc. If you fasten two kinds of metals together (i.e. steel & aluminum) very very tightly, you might not be able to get them apart again. You want things to be tightly fastened, but you want to be able to un-fasten them easily.
On a motorcycle you have a bunch of different materials, steel, alloys, aluminum, magnesium. They all have different hardnesses. If you're threading a steel bolt into aluminum threads, you can very easily strip the aluminum threads if you overtorque it. Take it from me, I'm the king of overtorquing. You can quickly damage soft sensitive material, and it'll be hard to get things to tighten again properly. A torque wrench is now an essential piece of equipment in my garage, and I try to identify the materials that I'm bolting into or through every time I attach a fastener.
Also, make sure you use some kind of anti-seize, whether it be grease, loctite, etc. If you fasten two kinds of metals together (i.e. steel & aluminum) very very tightly, you might not be able to get them apart again. You want things to be tightly fastened, but you want to be able to un-fasten them easily.
Whats the stock setting of the Scott damper? and one more question (might be a stupid one though), Why there is an Ohlins logo on my new Scott damper ? Is Scott like a sub company of Ohlins ?
Thanks
They're definitely the same company. I think Ohlins bought Scotts and kept the name to differentiate them from the Ohlins-type damper. Don't know the specifics. Most just say Scotts. I think only the newer ones have both names.
The rotary damper was designed and engineered by Ohlins for the dirtbike world quite a while ago. Scotts has a licensing agreement to sell them here under their own name, as Ohlins didn't want to market rotary dampers to the sportbike industry when that wasn't their intended purpose.
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