Tight section on chain - Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-02-2005, 5:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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Tight section on chain

After trying out my new rainsuit I got home and noticed my chain was way too tight. Cleaned the chain, readjusted to 1.8", warmed it with a 15 minute ride then lubed it.
Now, its about two or three days later and went to ride this morning and the chain is tight again. The adjusters haven't moved and the rear wheel axle nut is torqued, WTF!
I just cleaned the chain again and now there's a tight spot in one section of the chain(cleaned it with kerosene). Is there any way to salvage this chain of is it a lost cause? The chain is a DID erv2 520 w/steel sprockets(which look to be OK).
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-02-2005, 5:11 PM
 
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Re: Tight section on chain

Replace it.
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post #3 of 9 Old 05-02-2005, 5:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Tight section on chain

Yeah I just checked it again, don't think its too safe to try and salvage it. There goes a couple of hun to the bike again!
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-02-2005, 5:16 PM
 
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Re: Tight section on chain

Let Chain's girlfriend talk about his tight sections. THat's none of your business.

And then there's this asshole...
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post #5 of 9 Old 05-02-2005, 10:02 PM
 
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Re: Tight section on chain

ride it a couple days...check it each day on the ground, not in the race stand. Make sure you dont have a dry link
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-02-2005, 11:29 PM
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Re: Tight section on chain

same thing just happened to a zx-10 I know, unfortunately replacement is the only option

why put off today what you can wake up late and forget to do tomorrow.

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post #7 of 9 Old 05-03-2005, 1:17 AM
 
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Re: Tight section on chain

I've had it happen here and there over 20 years....before you replace trust me, check the slack on the ground and the stiff link on the stand. Matter of fact the 1000RR had one with 750 miles on it...now it doesnt. Look for a dry link or links, if you use gear oil, lube every 500 miles...chain lube a little longer...make sure if you use chain lube it is O.K for O-ring chains. When you replace it dont let them sell you on the "cant have a master-link in your chain B.S" they're supper strong and are only problems on mega power machines. You could check wheel alignment too...or you could spend a bunch of money before you have too.

I'm not saying the other guys advice isnt possible, I havent seen the chain, but try a few options first...it's free
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post #8 of 9 Old 05-03-2005, 1:21 AM
 
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Re: Tight section on chain

try the RK GSW Or is it GSX. Either way. DID states the EVR2 is for a 750. RK states there new gold 520 chain is strong enough for a 1000. I replaced my DID with one after the did was giving up the fight. not that the DID was a bad chain. I got well over 10k miles and a bunch of track days out of it. Now waiting to see how the RK does since its only 5 months old.
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post #9 of 9 Old 05-03-2005, 11:25 AM
 
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Re: Tight section on chain

If you have a 'dry link' in an o-ring chain, the lube is gone from inside that o-ring. You can't put it back in there, so it will just get worse. At the same time, my 929 chain had a couple of stiff links when it was new. One of those was the master rivet link. After a while, I saw that the o-ring for that link was probably damaged when they installed it at the factory. The chain still lived a long time. It eventually developed several other tight links. It really seemed to hasten it's demise after I added a 15t front sprocket. It was probably the fact that I did not add the 15t sprocket until the chain already had 21k miles of wear on it, so there was a mismatch in the spacing of the pin distance and the sprocket teeth.

If I went 500 miles between chain lubes, my stock chain would never have lasted 23k miles and 39 track days. Every 200 miles or so is more like it. If the chain ever gets shiney, you have underlubed it. There should always be some lube visible on the chain. Rain will take the lube off in a hurry, so you'll want to lube it right after a ride in the rain.

I am finally replacing my chain and sprockets. I'm getting an RK 530 XS0 chain and some new steel sprockets. Cost will be under $140. This is a basic good quality o-ring chain. Not the very best, but as good as the factory chain that lasted so well. If I was going to a 520, I might have gone with the EVR-2 at double the price. If going to 520, it is not the chain that is usually a problem, but the life of the sprockets. If the sprockets get worn, they take the chain with it. The wear on the chain comes not from the exterior of the rollers, but from the interal pin stress brought on by the slightly altered spacing of worn out sprocket teeth. This puts all the stress on one pin at a time, instead of a set of pins carrying the load.

I decided against going 520 or aluminium, just to keep it long lasting. I even decided to go back to stock gearing. I had gone to a 15t front, which was fun for the track, but a bit buzzy for the street.

Last edited by Zippy; 05-03-2005 at 11:31 AM.
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