Stock 2000 929 tweaks?? - Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org
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post #1 of 5 Old 02-03-2006, 7:31 PM Thread Starter
 
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Stock 2000 929 tweaks??

I have a stock 2000 929, with only 2 additions, a steering dampner, and Micron exhaust. I bought it used, and don't have any manuals, or any real clue on how to make any kind of adjustments. I have these questions:

1) I'm 5'9" 150 lbs, what settings should I have for the suspension? The previous owner was about 6'0", 200 lbs. How can I verify that I have the proper config for my size/weight?

2) Being only 5'9", I can't sit flat foot, while stopped. Tippy toes, or lean slightly while foot sits on rear brake. Besides taller shoes, are there any adjustments I can make?

3) Any other tweaks that someone has found to be useful?
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post #2 of 5 Old 02-03-2006, 8:19 PM
 
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Re: Stock 2000 929 tweaks??

Hi rejected929,

welcome to the org.

If you do a search in this forum on "Spanky" you'll find a thread titled "Suspension Set-up" which details the saga of my suspension tuning on my stock 929.

I'm more of the size of the guy you bought your 929 off, so you'll probably want to take a 1/2 turn extra off my damping settings...but the first trick will be to set the sag - again, if you do a search on "sag" you'll find heaps of bumph on it here.

Bottom line, I've set my bike up with around 30mm sag at the rear, and the best I could get on the standard fork springs (which was around 42mm with the pre-load screwed up righty tighty !) - I think somewhere around 30 to 35mm is probably about right for most road riders at both ends.

Good luck !

Cheers, Spanky.
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post #3 of 5 Old 02-07-2006, 8:51 AM
 
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Re: Stock 2000 929 tweaks??

Well I have a 2001 and my rear is at 2 of 9. Pretty soft but I do touch flat footed at 5'8".The front is set at 1.5 Rings showing. everything else is really more about comfort.
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post #4 of 5 Old 02-07-2006, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Stock 2000 929 tweaks??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spanky
Hi rejected929,

welcome to the org.

If you do a search in this forum on "Spanky" you'll find a thread titled "Suspension Set-up" which details the saga of my suspension tuning on my stock 929.

I'm more of the size of the guy you bought your 929 off, so you'll probably want to take a 1/2 turn extra off my damping settings...but the first trick will be to set the sag - again, if you do a search on "sag" you'll find heaps of bumph on it here.

Bottom line, I've set my bike up with around 30mm sag at the rear, and the best I could get on the standard fork springs (which was around 42mm with the pre-load screwed up righty tighty !) - I think somewhere around 30 to 35mm is probably about right for most road riders at both ends.

Good luck !

Cheers, Spanky.
As I have not done any adjustments (ever), can you point in in the right direction as to where these adjustments might be made, and how? Pictures work wonders if ya got 'em. Thanks.

-Rich
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post #5 of 5 Old 02-07-2006, 3:54 PM
 
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Re: Stock 2000 929 tweaks??

OK, if you have an Owner's manual (should be under the rear seat) it'll point you in the right direction...

Otherwise (you'll have to visualise as I'm at work and don't have any images with me...) the big black nut like thing on the very top of your forks is the pre-load adjuster. If you look below on the side of it you'll see a bunch of rings scribed on it (or maybe not if it's already turned right in). The screw in the very middle of that nut is your rebound damping adjustment, and the screw at the bottom rear of the fork leg (down by the axle) is the compression adjuster.

At the rear the pre-load is that notched ring at the bottom of the spring (you adjust it with the C-spanner in your tool kit - if your bike has one...should be under the back seat, on the top of the fender). The screw thing at the top of the shock is the compression damping adjuster, and the rebound damping adjuster is at the bottom of the shock - visable through the gap under the swing-arm and above the chain...

As for setting the sag - you'll need a mate or two to help you out...one to hold the bike upright while you sit on it (in your riding gear) and another to take measurements. I manage to do it with just one helper, and I must admit not in my riding gear (can't be buggered getting all my leathers and boots on for a 10 minute job !!).

Now I know there'll be a few howls of protest from the local experts when they read my description of how to do this as I'm sure to miss something out, but as you're new I wont tell you to go and do a search (again) and will have a go at describing how I set the sag on my 929...

Front Sag - first using the kick stand as a prop, lever the front wheel of the bike up off the ground (only by a mm or two) and have a friend (wife/girlfriend/child/passer-by) measure the distance between two FIXED points on your fork leg (one up above the seal and one down below) - write that measurement down. Then stand the bike upright and gently sit on it - take the measure again - write it down, then bounce the forks up and down then sit still, take the measure again - write it down.

Now with the three figures you've got the first is the full extended length of the front suspension, add the second and third numbers together and divide by 2 to get an average - subtract this fourth number from the first number and that is your front sag...if it's around 30 - 35mm then you're in business, if it's 40mm plus then you could use a little more pre-load (wind the big black nut in by half a line and check the measurements again), if it's less than 30mm then look at winding the black nut out a half ring/line and re-check.

Basically repeat the process at the rear - I always find the rear more tricky as it's harder to find good measure points and we usually end up compromising on a luggage hook up top or something like that !.

Just remember first measure the full extent of your suspension travel, then the gap with you just sitting on the bike (no bouncing) then the gap after you've had a good old bounce.

Check the measurements, write them down (real easy to forget and then you have to do it all over again), do your calculation, then make the necessary pre-load adjustments as required...

I know you're supposed to control the suspension's return to get an accurate measure of stiction (stickiness) etc, but for the purposes of setting the sag on a bike that lives on a road most of the time where surfaces etc are so variable this is a good quick process that I've used for a few years without any great problems - give it a try

Cheers, Spanky.
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