Re: Front Brake Spongy
Using the search tool you would have found this post:
Originally Posted by sl954
I have not recieved them yet, maybe I'll wait until they come in.
Abtech, is there a link to your "wordy" discription on bleeding brakes? I would be interested in reading it.
Here is one of them:
Originally Posted by Venom
One little trick that i was told about a year ago, Is when you think you have just about all the air out. But you still just a little mush when you first start to squeze the lever.
Take a piece of velcro, Squeze the lever pretty hard, Wrap the velcro around the lever. So that the velcro keeps presure on the lever. And let it sit over night. Wile it sits over night the last little bit of air get adsorbed in to the fluid. In the morning grab the lever , Take the velcro off,( or what ever you used to tye the lever back) And relesase the lever slowly.
I know it sounds like a load of B/S. And i thought the same thing till i tryed it. And sure enought that little last bit was/is gone. I frist tryed that my self when i put SS brake lines one my 12. Getting that last bit of air out of the banjo bolt was driveing me nuts. So i thought i would give it a try and sleep on it. Need less to say i was a verry happy camper the next day.
This is really just a bandaid, as the air and fluid will seperate in a short period of time leaving the brakes just like they were before.
Here is the way we do it and it works period.
First, if you have a MityVac, find the box it came in, place it back inside along with the instructions and return it to the place you purchased it. With less than half of that money in your pocket, order a bleeder banjo bolt for the master cyclinder and install it before you begin.
Put the bike on a race stand, so it's relatively level (side to side).
I suggest buying a set of Speedbleeders to make this simple job even easier. If you don't have the Speedbleeders, then just get an 8 mm open end wrench, about 2 to 2.5 feet of clear plastic hose and an empty coffee can.
Pull off the rubber caps on the bleeders (doing one side at a time) and place the clear hose over the nipple and the other end into the can.
Remove the top of the reservoir and top it off with fresh Motul 600 DOT 4 racing fluid.
Pump the lever a few times until you get some serious resistance and then while applying pressure on the lever, open the nipple with the 8 mm wrench about 1/4 turn and as the lever begins to move, tighten it back up.
Repeat this last step until you no longer see any air bubbles in the clear tubing. Note you will have to keep an eye on the reservoir level to make certain you ALWAYS have plenty of fluid.
Once you no longer see any bubbles, move to the other caliper and repeat.
Let the brakes sit for about 5 minutes and then repeat the bleeding operation.
Now take the handle of a large screwdriver and start tapping on the brake line (again one side at a time) beginning at the caliper and slowly moving upward toward the master cylinder. If you have the stock lines, then make certain you carefully tap both sides of the junction and then follow it up to the master cylinder.
Again let the brakes sit for about 5 minutes and then move your clear plastic tubing to the bleeder bolt at the master cylinder and using the same technique, bleed this nipple until there are no air bubbles in the tubing.
This last step is the most important, as the air bubbles always travel up to the top of the lines (as well as get stuck in the T junction on stock systems). I have heard so many people tell me they have bled the brakes 10 or more times and the brakes are still squishy and then they go out and buy a MityVac and go through a couple of quarts of brake fluid and still have crap for brakes. Everyone that says they have "totally" bled the brakes (but didn't do the master cylinder) has always had a ton of air in the top of the lines and are amazed when they see even more bubbles come out of their supposedly "airless" system.