Darkstar, sorry mate but you shouldn't use the wheel you fitted to your 95 900. The hub on the 93-97 900's was narrower (5mm each side) than 98-99 900RR's and the 929/954 wheels.
What that means is that your rotors will sit too far inboard with the 929 forks, so your rotors will not line up with the calipers. And the spacers wouldn't work either (too short). To get this to work, you'd need to machine new wider spacers for both the wheel and the calipers (to bring the calipers inboard). It would look like crap too.........and you'd still be stuck with really small 290mm rotors, when the 929/954 rotors are huge 330mm jobbies. And you wouldn't be able to use the the cool gold 929/954 calipers which have larger pistons and are teflon coated. By the way, one more benefit is that the 929/954 pad area is substantially larger than the 900RR too. Basically, the 929/954 brake system is superior in every way to the 900RR's. Then again, you'd expect that with evolution.
Keep in mind too that with a 17" wheel, you really should
be using larger rotors. This is because compared to a 16" wheel, there is more reciprocating mass in the 17" wheel that larger rotors can help arrest. They look a hell of a lot better too.
Most that do this swap use the 3 spoke 929/954 wheel, but that combined with the 6 spoke 900RR rear wheel makes the setup look like ass! I found a solution though........ You can buy a 6 spoke wheel from the 2000-2001 RC51 (VTR1000) 'SP1' model bike. Now, that came with an ID of 20mm to match the 20mm axle, but the 929/954 axle is beefier at 25mm. So, you need to get some 929/954 bearings (same OD for all Firebkade wheels),the 929/954 centre collar, dust seals and wheel spacers. Then it will bolt up, and it will look right.
One thing myself, and another person who did this swap found was that the 929/954 spacers didn't work. They incorrectly oriented the wheel 1.5mm to the right. I ended up getting some new brass custom spacers machined for free (friend's dad owns a machine shop!), but you could get the left spacer reduced by 1.5mm, and get a new right spacer machined to be 1.5mm longer (they shouldn't cost more than $40 total to modify/make). Then your wheel will sit in the right place.
Just a word of warning on buying a used SP1 front wheel: Don't.
You can buy a new one for about USD$425 from ZANOTTI MOTOR CO. INC, Butler, PA 16001 - Motorcycle, ATV, Trikes, Golf Cars
- plus you can get the bearings, collar, spacers and seals from them at a discount too. Used will set you back about $175-275, but it will probably need repowdercoating (another $60-100). Even then, you have no idea if it's been repaired in the past. The other guy who did the swap too bought an SP1 wheel on Ebay and when it arrived, the hub had mirofine cracks in it. Basically, you ask too much of a front wheel to take the risk of buying used. A front wheel is NOT a part to be cheap on! Just spend a little bit more and buy brand new.