Winterization - Honda Motorcycles

Chain · 11-05-2003, 3:33 PM

I've seen this page before and, as usual, am stunned by the magnitude of this guy's attention to detail every time I look at it.

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html

I think his list of things to do is overkill, however.

I'm no professional wrench, but I believe my bike will be just fine if I keep Stabil in the fuel and only start it with the freshly changed oil and filter when I know it's warm enough to allow me to ride the bike fully up to operating temperature for, say, 20 minutes minimum. That way I've theoretically burned up any condensation or byproducts of combustion from the oil.

We might have talked about winterizing before, but if you're in the Snow Belt -I'm curious- what's your plan?

HondaGalToo · 11-05-2003, 3:41 PM

I change the oil and filter. Then I add stabil to the gas and run it for about 10-15 mins to circulated the 'stabilized' gas throughout the system. I remove the battery and bring it inside and trickle charge it overnight about once a month. I put tin foil over the exhaust can, clean it up, and throw a sheet over it. Then I dream about Spring and the returning warm weather!

I personally don't subscribe to the 'start it up and run it once a week' philosophy. I don't trust that all the condensation will be burned off in a 20 min. run. It's really just as easy to bring the battery inside. I used to put oil in the spark plug openings when I had a parallel twin where they were easily accessible. I don't do that now.

Heavy-Dee · 11-05-2003, 3:43 PM

I think I'm bringing my bike into my basement this winter and putting the battery on the battery tender.

Red Rider · 11-05-2003, 3:48 PM

Quote:

HondaGalToo : I change the oil and filter. *Then I add stabil to the gas and run it for about 10-15 mins to circulated the 'stabilized' gas throughout the system. *I remove the battery and bring it inside and trickle charge it overnight about once a month. *I put tin foil over the exhaust can, clean it up, and throw a sheet over it. *Then I dream about Spring and the returning warm weather!

I personally don't subscribe to the 'start it up and run it once a week' philosophy. *I don't trust that all the condensation will be burned off in a 20 min. run. *It's really just as easy to bring the battery inside. *I used to put oil in the spark plug openings when I had a parallel twin where they were easily accessible. *I don't do that now.

Same procedure (except the foil! ) as HG2. *Once I put in fresh oil for storage I don't run the bike again until spring. *Even if you run it for 20 minutes or so to burn out any moisture you still create acids in the oil.

Chain · 11-05-2003, 3:55 PM

Quote:

Red Rider : Even if you run it for 20 minutes or so to burn out any moisture you still create acids in the oil.

That begs the question: what's the difference between starting and riding the bike in summer and starting and riding the bike in the winter?

In other words, if acids and nasty byproducts are deposited in the oil during cool weather starts, why wouldn't those same nasties be deposited in other times of year?

figment · 11-05-2003, 3:58 PM

move to Florida

Chain · 11-05-2003, 4:02 PM

Quote:

figment : move to Florida

That would work nicely, wouldn't it?

Red Rider · 11-05-2003, 4:08 PM

Quote:

Chain : Quote (Red Rider @ Nov. 05 2003, 2:48pm)Even if you run it for 20 minutes or so to burn out any moisture you still create acids in the oil.

That begs the question: what's the difference between starting and riding the bike in summer and starting and riding the bike in the winter?

In other words, if acids and nasty byproducts are deposited in the oil during cool weather starts, why wouldn't those same nasties be deposited in other times of year?
Good point. Maybe the fact that the bike will be left sitting for extended periods during the winter (typically) would mean that the nasty stuff would be coating your internals for a longer period of time?

soon2b954 · 11-05-2003, 4:43 PM

Ditto

I also leave my bike on the rear stand and put 3/4' piece of plywood under the front tire. *Also put a bag on the end of the exhaust pipe with an elastic band around it.

Today is the day she will be put to rest, temporarily of course!!

sl954 · 11-05-2003, 4:57 PM

I don't believe condensation is a problem. In the spring when everything is cold on the bike (metal parts) and you open your garage door and let in the warm air everything gets condensation on it. This only happens on the outside of the engine as the condensation is from the air outside the engine, not inside. In the winter (in the Midwest) when it is cold the relative humidity is usually very low so starting and riding the bike is not a problem. ofcorse this is only my opinoin.

Steve

CBRVFR · 11-05-2003, 5:34 PM

Red Rider and others who use Redline in the coolant during the (track) riding season - Do you drain it all and put the 50/50 antifreeze mixture in it? or could you just drain it and leave it dry for the winter? Given there would probably be some left in there somewhere..
And given that you'd put a tag on the ignition switch reminding you..

Red Rider · 11-05-2003, 5:38 PM

I've always drained it and put in the Honda coolant in the past, but this year I put in Engine Ice instead. Not sure if draining it dry is such a good thing, but I believe we've had this topic before and I seem to recall that some people (abtech?) have done it.

CBRVFR · 11-05-2003, 6:25 PM

Is this Engine Ice racetrack approved? And will it keep my baby from freezin' in the unheated garage?

smkeatr · 11-05-2003, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Chain : Quote (figment @ Nov. 05 2003, 2:58pm)move to Florida

That would work nicely, wouldn't it?
Saves on 'winterizing' most anything. I ride the Sea Doo in January.

trey · 11-05-2003, 11:29 PM

I put fogging oil in all four of the cyinders and i don't start it all winter long, i think your better off this way.

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