Hi All - I thought I would put a quick How-To for painting the exhaust shield for those who want to do it themselves.
First step: Tools for the job, materials & disassemble the relevant parts.
5mm Hex Key (measured flat face to opposite flat face)
8mm Socket & Ratchet or 8mm spanner
Very High Temperature Paint (Colour/s of your choice)
Wet & Dry sand paper (finer the better)
Masking Tape, Newspaper, old sheets (whatever you have to protect the rest of the bike)
Latex or other form of gloves
Most of all a dry, ventilated, wind proof area to work (dust mask recommended for sanding and spraying).
There are 3 hex type bolts holding the shield on to the exhaust, the easiest way to take this off without removing the entire exhaust is to obtain the right size hex key and either cut it down or grind it down so that the length from the tip to the bend is 20mm. This then allows full movement of the key without risk of scratching the paint on the swingarm.
Once you have removed the bolts gently lift the shield upwards and to the rear to slide the shield off the exhaust. At this point remove the metal spindle from the front bolt hole rubber grommet and then remove the grommet itself.
If you want to do the tips as well then you will need to use an 8mm socket or spanner to remove 3 bolts holding the top tip to the exhaust and the bottom one will have to be sprayed in place once all the area is masked off.
PREPARATION is the key to any successful finish.
SAFETY FIRST: Please wear a dust mask or equivalent to protect your lungs as some dust and spray fumes can be harmful to your health.
Clean all surfaces that are going to be painted with a wire brush and cellulose thinners (or other type of cleaning products to make the parts dirt and grease free). Once the parts are initially clean you will need to then switch to a very fine wet & dry paper (do not wet it) this will then key the surface and take off any last bits of dirt or blemishes.
When all the parts are sanded down you will need to clean them again with thinners or whatever you are using, at this point make sure you are wearing gloves as the oils in your skin can leave a fine layer on the parts and make adhesion of the paint less effective.
Let the thinners evaporate and get the parts in a place thats good for spraying as said above make sure its well ventilated but not windy and because VHT paint sets better with heat an average warmth day is ideal, do not do it in the snow
Prepare the bike by masking off all areas not being painted (if you are doing the bottom tip or the main section of the exhaust (some people have had paint issues with the OEM finish so why not do it as well).
I generally hold an area on each part that is not going to be seen once re-fitted that way you can move the part around to get all possible angles for spraying I then follow that by hanging the part up and do the section that you were previously holding, in the case of the shield the section where it mounts to the rear is a good place to hold and then suspend the shield from the front bolt hole to spray the rear section.
Generally when spraying you build up many thin coats so take your time spray in a nice even motion from left to right and leave whatever time between coats that the paint stipulates (mine were 15 minutes between coats and 4 coats done).
With the top tip I used a wire coat hanger to spray it all.
Once all parts are painted and you are happy with the finish you can start assembling the parts again starting with the top tip, make sure the bolts are in tightly.
Both Tips (Bolted):
Then replace the rubber grommet in the front part of the newly painted shield and put the spindle washer in from the rear side (is case you forgot) and you can then slide the shield back in place (GENTLY OR YOU WILL SCRATCH THE TIPS). Put the 3 bolts in loosely and then move the shield around so it is placed correctly and then tighten the rear 2 bolts first then the front one.
When it is all back together you can then see if everything is as it should be
The last thing to do as some paint requires curing is to warm the engine up slowly to put the heat into the exhaust pipe and then it will transfer to the shield. I found doing this in 2 stages was best, take the bike out in the open and start it up, let it warm up for about 10 -15 minutes and then shut the bike down and let it cooldown. After its cooled down start it up again and let it warm up for 10 minutes again but this time take it for a ride for about 20-30 minutes to get it hotter and hotter but do it over time to make the curing process as good as it can be too much heat too soon will have the opposite effect.
I hope this helps those people out there that are not too sure how to do it.